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4 Main Wall

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L to R R to L Alpha
For Madmen Only 
Hollywood 
Lester the Molester 
Library, The 
Lower Undercling, The 
Main Street (left) 
Main Street (right) 
Notch, The 
Snowflake 
Sunday Morning 
Undercling, The 
Witches Brew 
Unsorted Routes:

4 Main Wall 


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Page Views: 5,010
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
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Looking northwest as the sun sets from Riverview l...

Description 

This is the main climbing area at the south end of Chickies Rock facing the river. It's most notable feature is Riverview Ledge, a convenient place to set up top ropes, or continue a second pitch up The Block above the ledge. There are a couple of railway buildings along the tracks here.

Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.

For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.

Main Wall routes and variations, left to right:

  • Too Easy 5.4 G (2 pitches)
  • Witches Brew 5.3 G (2 pitches)
  • Kissing Wall 5.5 PG (Witches Brew variation, 2 pitches)
  • Main Street 5.5 PG
  • Lester Molester 5.8 X
  • For Madmen Only 5.7 X
  • Touch and Go 5.9 R
  • The Library 5.5 PG
  • Snow Flake 5.4 PG (The Library variation)
  • The Notch 5.9 PG
  • Sunday Morning 5.4 G
  • The Undercling 5.6 G (Sunday Morning variation)
  • The Lower Undercling 5.8 G (Sunday Morning variation)
  • Hollywood 5.7 PG
  • Train Wreck 5.7 PG (Sunday Morning variation)
  • Shrimp Scampered 5.5 G
  • Train Station 5.1
  • Nuts 5.4 PG (2 pitches)


Getting There 

The popular Riverview ledge is not so easy to access from parking near the top of the cliff, but the bottom access is from parking alongside route 441.

From the pull-off, walk across the grassy field, gain the rails to trails path and walk downriver until the trees clear away and you see the open cliff face.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 4 Main Wall:
Witches Brew   5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
For Madmen Only   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R     TR, 1 pitch, 105'   
The Undercling   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Main Street (left)   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Browse More Classics in 4 Main Wall

Featured Route For 4 Main Wall
Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.

The Undercling 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall
The 5.7 grade applies only to the crux(es) which are the undercling move, and at the top, following the vertical crack in the black face. You can easily maneuver around these cruxes to arrive at the same place. An easy top-rope version would probably go 5.5 due to the roof (i.e. Sunday Morning)....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of 4 Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
main wall at Chickies
BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies
Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.
BETA PHOTO: Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.
The undercling move
The undercling move
Ryan following on Main St.
BETA PHOTO: Ryan following on Main St.
Comments on 4 Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 20, 2010

Reading Rocks has a route guide for the Main Wall here on their website.

By kenr
May 16, 2012

Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors.

For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor.

The popular Riverview ledge is not so easy to access from parking near the top of the cliff, but the bottom access reocommended in the description is from parking alongside route 441 (not 443).

By minquatrails
Aug 3, 2013

I noticed 2 bolts on the River View Ledge. I'm not sure why they were put there as I've seen gear anchors built right next to the bolts. Maybe because RVL gets too crowded as mentioned above?

I'm not opposed to the judicious use of bolts at Chickies and I'll happily use them. Given Chickies long history of climbing, its hard to see why it needs (many) bolts. I've heard that the fire department as installed some bolts for training purposes.

Anybody have info on the new bolts? Just curious. Thanks!