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Looking northwest as the sun sets from Riverview l...
Description This is the main climbing area at the south end of Chickies Rock facing the river. It's most notable feature is Riverview Ledge, a convenient place to set up top ropes, or continue a second pitch up The Block above the ledge. There are a couple of railway buildings along the tracks here. Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors. For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor. Main Wall routes and variations, left to right:
- Too Easy 5.4 G (2 pitches)
- Witches Brew 5.3 G (2 pitches)
- Kissing Wall 5.5 PG (Witches Brew variation, 2 pitches)
- Snow Flake 5.4 PG (The Library variation)
- The Undercling 5.6 G (Sunday Morning variation)
- The Lower Undercling 5.8 G (Sunday Morning variation)
- Train Wreck 5.7 PG (Sunday Morning variation)
Getting There The popular Riverview ledge is not so easy to access from parking near the top of the cliff, but the bottom access is from parking alongside route 441. From the pull-off, walk across the grassy field, gain the rails to trails path and walk downriver until the trees clear away and you see the open cliff face.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 4 Main Wall:
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Featured Route For 4 Main Wall
Witches Brew 5.3 PG13 PA : Chickies Rock : 4 Main Wall
I have seen different descriptions of Witches Brew and Witches Brew Direct. In my opinion, "Direct" is the only version worth considering. Any escape to the left of right does not make the climbing any easier, and you miss the best part of the climb.Due to the length of the climb, the first time I did this I did it in two pitches, setting up a belay on the loose ledges at the base of the chimney. Don't do this. There is tons of loose rock on these ledges, rope management here sends showers of ro... [more] Browse More Classics in PA
BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies
| BETA PHOTO: Tanya on the final headwall of Sunday Morning.
| BETA PHOTO: Ryan following on Main St.
| The undercling move
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By Justin Johnsen Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Oct 20, 2010
| Reading Rocks has a route guide for the Main Wall here on their website. |
By kenr May 16, 2012
| Although there's lots of different Top-Ropable climbing lines all over the south + west sides of the lower Main wall, there's not much space on the Riverview ledge for traditional Top-Rope anchors once multiple parties show up. So be prepared to share. And remember, somebody in each party needs to really know what they're doing with setting up Trad top-rope anchors. For top-roping, the historic route names (like given on this website) don't have much meaning, since the old routes wander around side-to-side more than most top-rope climbers -- and usually multiple worthwhile lines can be done from the same top-rope anchor. The popular Riverview ledge is not so easy to access from parking near the top of the cliff, but the bottom access reocommended in the description is from parking alongside route 441 (not 443). |
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