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3rd Flatiron climbable this week?
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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Jan 15, 2014
At the matching crux

Any Boulder locals mind peeking out the window for me? How much snow is up there?

I'll be passing through Boulder this week and with the perfect weather forecast, I'm thinking it might be nice to run up before the falcon closures start soon.

Thanks!


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By Steve Levin
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
Sundevil Chimney, Titan

Should be climbable right now. Might be a little residual snow/ice deep in gullies, and the descent trail will be snowy/icy.


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
West Overhang

We climbed most of First on Sat (bailed before joining the N Arete due to winds). There were avoidable sections of snow and ice, but there has also been more melting since. Watch the wind forecast; it has been gusty up there even if the winds are calm at the base.

crappy photo from today, but you get the idea:

Bad photo of Flatirons conditions as of 15 Jan 2014.
Bad photo of Flatirons conditions as of 15 Jan 2014.


Sat's conditions on First (and no, I don't normally climb in a salwar kameez)
First conditions on 11 Jan 2014.
First conditions on 11 Jan 2014.


Another photo of First conditions on 11 Jan.
Another photo of First conditions on 11 Jan.


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By LongRanger
Jan 15, 2014

Watched someone free solo the 3rd on Sun w/rope for the rappel. Looked pretty devoid of snow, from the base.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Jan 15, 2014
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

I honestly had no ideas what "salwar kameez" were so I googled it. That might be a good look for you when you climb, you should probably stick with it.

There are some old photos of a climbing club in Boulder back in the late 1800s or so, the women used to free solo the 3rd in dresses, bad ass if you ask me.


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
West Overhang

Rick Blair wrote:
...That might be a good look for you when you climb, you should probably stick with it. There are some old photos of a climbing club in Boulder back in the late 1800s or so, the women used to free solo the 3rd in dresses, bad ass if you ask me...


TooTallTim and I have been logging some vertical in various costumes. Soloing in a corset and all of that fabric, now that is bad ass.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Jan 15, 2014
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

That's pretty harrowing soloing the 1st with ice possibly blocking the route and starting off the Deck with wet shoes. I don't think I could do that, even in a dress.


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By Brad White
Jan 15, 2014

Fossana, that looks like a tasty little runnel of ice in that third photo. And I'm pretty sure it's not on the so-called Silk Road route.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Get it prior to 2/1 when the cliff-chicken closures shut it down!


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
West Overhang

Brad White wrote:
Fossana, that looks like a tasty little runnel of ice in that third photo. And I'm pretty sure it's not on the so-called Silk Road route.


Brad, thanks for the reminder. I could not remember the name of the mixed route when someone asked me on the approach. Whatever this is, it was scary wet and thin on Sat.


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By Brad White
Jan 15, 2014

Fossana, the "Silk Road", which is a brilliant route is quite a bit climbers' right of the Standard Route. I don't have my reading glasses at work with me today, so your pictures look like soloing mixed climbing in skirts. Now that would be bad ass. :-)


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By Cor
Jan 15, 2014
black nasty

It is the bottom of the silk road… It rarely forms that low.
Usually you cut in from the right, and up the gully above the stairs a bit.

I have done it once when it was that low! Makes the start much mellower.


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
West Overhang

Cor wrote:
It is the bottom of the silk road…


Though I'm no expert on Flatirons mixed routes this description has it as further right, as mentioned by Brad. This is consistent with Haas' description of what he calls the NE Gully, which he states is also a mixed route.


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By Cor
Jan 15, 2014
black nasty

Wow.. I didn't realize that the ice in the picture went somewhere other then the gully(on 1st)...


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2014
West Overhang

The flow in the pic was just left of E Face Direct.


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By Cor
Jan 16, 2014
black nasty

Wow, thanks.. I didn't realize that one!
The picture lookinh down, i thought you were more to the side...


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By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Jan 18, 2014
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

Conditions report:

The Third still has some ice in the gully before the second eyebolt. I crossed a little higher.

Freeway has some ice and snow at the start that can be avoided on the right.

The start to Baker's Way is icy and a little dicier than usual. The rest of the route and the North Aręte have a little snow that is easily avoided.

The first 20 feet of Fandango are covered by ice. From the start, the Direct East Face looked cleaner than in the pictures above.

All trails have icy stretches.


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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Jan 18, 2014
At the matching crux

Wonderful, thanks for all the conditions reports folks. Much appreciated!


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By flynn
Jan 18, 2014

Some sort of traction devices for use on the approaches/descents will probably make you very happy. YakTrax, StabilIcers, even golf shoes will help. The trails are so shaded that they develop scary icy spots that stay until everything melts off...in March or April.


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By fossana
From Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2014
West Overhang

Despite the balmy temps there is still ice and snow in spots, as Brenta mentioned. Expect a snowy start at the bottom of First Flatiron routes The trough near the top of E Face Direct is holding snow. The downclimb off the First is free of ice and snow. A few more photos from today:

3rd to 1st.
3rd to 1st.


2 guys on Far Right/N Arete.
2 guys on Far Right/N Arete.


A few patches of ice/snow remain.
A few patches of ice/snow remain.


Ice on the bottom of Fandango.
Ice on the bottom of Fandango.


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