This climb is left of Incredible Hand Crack. Look for the first climb that has a small pillar at its base. Above the pillar, the climb continues as a right-facing dihedral. Not too far above the pillar is a small roof. You'll see the rest.
Make sure you milk the rest a little more than half way up. This climb is sustained.
My favorite climb on the Supercrack Buttress. The start is thin for me, but 4 #1 Camalots will be more than enough. The rest of the way I placed #2 and #3 Camalots. I took 6 #2s and 6 #3s. It can be done with one rope. With rope stretch you will just reach the ground, or miss by 3 feet.
BETA PHOTO: 3AM Crack (5.10). Indian Creek, UT.
After a sustained lead a top rope is born on a bea...
Mike R photo by Robert Johnson
Ghost image of climber on WWoF on 3AM Crack
The perfect hand section starts just after the sma...
Keo placing gear on his way to the RP of 3AM Crack...
Scrawny forearm man attempting to get jams on the ...
Keo starting up 3AM Crack.
Sarah Haskin on 3AM Crack Suzy Williams with the b...
|By Paul Nelson|
Oct 12, 2002
yeah, it is a a thin start. Just punch through it quickly to get to a good handjam rest right below the little lip.I think that it is definitely adviseable just to lower down to the top of the boulder and downclimb the last fifteen feet if you don't have a 70m rope.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 22, 2003
This route is awesome. I compare it supercrack quality for it had diverse moves(slab, fist, hand, finger, flakes, liebacks). This climb demands a number of different skills as well as some endurance(not too many rest stances). One of the best routes I have climbed.
The flake pulling past the thin crack was some of the coolest climbing I have ever done. I really enjoyed the fist/wide hand crack as well.
This climb is really sustained and I had just never had such a hard time on a 5.10 flat.
|By Brian Weinstein|
Jan 16, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
possibly the finest hand crack on the buttress. classic!
From: Golden, Colorado
Feb 9, 2006
My partner and I lead this at the end of a long day. When I finished this route it was absolutely beer:30. This is a great route, emphasis on great. We descended with two ropes, if you have'em, use'em. We found this thing to be pretty damn tiring, bust through the thin hands and hands because the hardest section, at least for me, was the last 30 or 40 feet of #3s. Did I mention that this was a great route!
|By Travis Hibbard|
Jun 14, 2007
We climbed this route in Late May and there must be something sharp on the anchor. We looked at my rope after it was pulled and there was considerable sheath damage. Check them out before you get lowered.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008
AWESOME line! Better than incredible. More sustained in the r-facing corner. Easier for small hands. Superb!
|By Greg D|
Oct 8, 2008
Check your rope length (as always). Someone got dropped on Sunday while being lowered cause the rope shot through the belayers hand before the climber reached the ground. He fell 15 or 20 feet. I hope he is recovering ok. Does anyone know his status?
From: SLC, UT
Mar 22, 2009
I agree w/ those who think that this is a better route than IHC. Not to put any route down in the Creek. I thought is was just superb. Superb!!
Big big hands at the top. Bring some #3's or equivalent.
70 meter rope works fine. Just make sure you're using your 70. :)
From: Augsburg, Germany
Dec 2, 2009
super fun, but small hands watch out- its perfect-amazing-wonderful hands for the first 3rd, then you get an enduro fest of tight fists- to -too big for fists that seems never ending...
really fun, but you've got to enjoy a little torture if you have small hands like me :)
|By Matt Hoffmann|
Apr 20, 2012
Seriously sustained climb. I climbed this actually thinking it was incredible hand crack (went back later and did IHC which is way easier).
Make sure you have 1 smaller piece for the start (pillar) if you aren't super confident (I put a green c4 but, a purple would fit a bit lower). Super fun hands section gets you nice and pumped for the wide hands. The little cave to sit down in at the end is an awesome finish. 4 star route!
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 16, 2012
I liked this one even better than IHC.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Dec 7, 2012
This thing is classic, climbed it at the end of an adopt a crag day, as the sun was departing. being relatively new to the creek I misinterpreted the rack beta in the book and brought nothing smaller then a #2. I soloed up the pillar and realized my mistake, it's #1's all the way to the roof... luckily I soloed to the top of the pillar so I had my belayer take me off belay and tag 3 #1's up to me. I raced for the lip with thin hands, rested at the lip, cruised the hands, slowed a little through the wide but kept fighting for the on sight. lead IHC later by headlamp and found it to be less sustained & possibly easier.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Apr 3, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloom says it is 105', this description says 100', it is at least 110- 115', use a 70m rope. One of my favorite climbs, if someone is on it, do noname 10 to the left, similar right facing corner that is mostly BD #3.