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Mar 10, 2015
Warning: Gear Beta
As clearly demonstrated in this photo, to protect this very safely for the second, a piece can be placed with a shoulder length runner 3/4 of the way up the first crack and another piece can be added half way through the traverse with almost no extension required.
This gear scheme doesn't change the path of the rope shown here and it protects the follower from taking a long pendulum where the feet and hands get less secure on the traverse.
climbing high on the finger crack before placing a piece with a double shoulder length runner is the other key to eliminating rope drag.
If you are aware that rope management is an issue, you have won half the battle.
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