31 Milestone Tract is a small climbing area below Sugarloaf with a handfull of small (sugarbun) sized domes, hoasting a variety of both bolt and gear protected routes, all easily accessable for top rope. The small domes range from about 40ft to 90ft in height and have rotues from 5.6 hand cracks, to 5.11+ thin face routes.
The area is a good alternative to Sugarloaf when the temps are just above comfortable there, as the domes are protected by a shady canopy of trees. There are enough routes with a wide enough range of grades to keep most peopel fairly occupied for a day or two. Especially if you're just looking to get away from people and get a few good TR's in.
When heading East toward Kyburz. Watch the Milestone Tract signs. About 200 yards before you get to the gas station in Kyburz, you'll see the small wooden sign post for 31 Milestone Tract on the North (Left) side of the road. A good marker to look for when the road is coming up, is to look for the large egg shaped boulder just off the road to the right with a dirty mossy groove/crack in it. When you see this distinctive boulder, slow down and look to your left, you're about to pass the turnoff for 31 Milestone Tract.
Turn onto 31 Milestone Tract and follow it as it makes a sharp left turn. Drive about 2 minutes up the dirt road to the first large pullout. This pullout is big enough to park 10 or so cars and is just before the green forrest service gate. Park somewhere here.
You'll see a patch of rotten rock on the road cut and a small uniform dome uphill and right of the roadcut. Walk up a faint climbers trail toward the small dome circleing around the back side on it's right side. Once behind the dome, look (North) for a narrow clearing through a pine choked small gully and begin walking up hill after walking through it. Continue walking up hill (North) and you should start to see small dome shaped rocks on your Left. Keep walking and the angle of the hill will level out as you enter a large area between the two major domes. Walk around a bit and it will be easy to spot most of the routes from here as they are in close proximity to each other. This approach takes about 5 minutes from the road.
This route is an obvious splitter lieback in a bright orange corner. The first 50ft is an awesome 5.9 fingers to tight hands lieback, then you have two options. Move out left under a thin but well protected tips undercling (.10a/b) until you can work your way up onto lower angle terrain and knobs, or go direct and attack the awkward bombay chimney (5.10b)above. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA