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31 5.12 redpoints before i turn 31
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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From Grand Junction, Co
Apr 23, 2012
Summit of Kissing Couple.

Gray Ghost, Is that is the La Sals?


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By RyanJames
Apr 23, 2012
Photo by Aaron Lavinsky

If you want to tick a bunch of 12's, come down to AZ and check out Jack's Canyon. There, you can climb about 20 soft 5.12's with only climbing about 100 vertical feet. Sounds perfect for you!


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 24, 2012

Jon Moen wrote:
Grayhghost: that route looks amazing. Is that at The Horn?

Yes.
Jesse Zacher wrote:
Gray Ghost, Is that is the La Sals?

No.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 27, 2012
Sure, I can belay

Ticked 45 and 46 out of 55 at Movement today. Only nine outside so far, but now that it's warming up, maybe I can shoot for 55 12s on real rock. My birthday's not till December, so I've still got a lot of time!
Mark


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 28, 2012

3/20 Teardrop 5.13a
and
4/20 Naked Knuckle 5.13a
today


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 28, 2012
Sure, I can belay

Way to go John! Sonic Youth?


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Apr 28, 2012
Sure, I can belay

At least it was a teenager, instead of Brooke.


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
May 5, 2012

5/20 today
'Limestone Cowboy' 5.13b at The Billboard
Broke a key hold on the low crux.
Post up if you have any info on the route.


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By Matt Sedor
From portland, or
May 5, 2012
mmmmmmonkey

Goals. These things are nice. Here is mine: 5.13 again by my 30th birthday (april 4). Whats the "again"? Yea so I was as strong as I have ever been this past year......at least 30 5.12s, up to .12d. And I caught my unicorn.....one and only one 5.13. And then, exactly a week after my 29th birthday, broken elbow. This required a replacement of the radial head (basically a partial joint replacement) and some ligament shiz. I am now 3 weeks out from surgery and grinding through some gnarly PT. So yea, the day of the surgery I set a new goal, 5.13 again by 30.


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
May 6, 2012

Brutal. Keep your eyes on the prize and get better.


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
May 6, 2012

You are really starting to tick them off Brendan...great job. i will be trying for 3/31 (they are coming rather slowly for me) today. 12c on isolation wall...


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 6, 2012
El Chorro

I posted pretty early on in this thread about wanting to set a similar goal for myself, but I wasn't sure how this year of my life was going to unfold.

I posted a week after my 28th birthday, and have had to change the goal a bit to suit my first year of living and working somewhere completely new.

I realized that I will probably see more new areas and climb more new routes this year than ever before (every area I go to is new), but will probably not visit any of them more than twice. This lends itself to onsighitng, and would make redpointing not so fun. So...

My goal is/was this: To have 28 "hard onsights" in my 28th year. I set the parameters at 11c sport or harder, and 10c trad or harder. If it's multi-pitch, I have to onsight all the pithces, and must lead the crux pitches.

I don't recall the names of all of the routes that are on the list so far but I'm nearly halfway there with about two thirds of the onsights being sport climbs (otherwise known as flashes).

I've onsighted routes in North Carolina, West Virginia, Spain and England. My hardest sport flash was "Skull in the Hole" at NRG - 5.12a. My hardest trad onsight was "Cornflake Crack" at Looking Glass - 11a. My hardest mixed onsight was "Edge of Fire" at Moore's Wall - 11b. I have also onsighted four 11d sport routes in Spain and England and a handfull of 10+ trad routes.

I have a week long trip to North Wales next month, a two week UK road trip in July, and a 10 day trip to NC in late October. Almost all of it will be trad climbing so at the end of the day we'll have to see what all the numbers add up to!

Glad everyone is getting at it! Have fun and good luck!


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By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
May 6, 2012
Casual Route Pitch 3  <br />Photo by Mark Cushman

This is a very inspirational thread. Well done everyone who is getting them knocked off. I have a birthday coming up next week. One of my goals for the next year includes climbing the nose in under 24 hours. Who wants to help?
Great work everyone!


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By Danger-Russ Gordon
From Tempe, AZ
May 6, 2012
Slope on a rope

Second Coming at chuckawalla wall in saint george is super fun and a some what soft 12a, or stick to your guns at the green valley gap, super fun roof, guide book said 12c but it felt like 12a... good luck


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
May 6, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

Ryan Williams wrote:
I don't recall the names of all of the routes that are on the list so far but I'm nearly halfway there with about two thirds of the onsights being sport climbs (otherwise known as flashes).


Really?
So I can't "on-sight" a sport climb, or "flash" a trad route?


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
May 6, 2012

Correction: i posted that i had 2 redpoints done of my 31...found out today that a route i did two weeks ago was not the route i thought i was doing. It was an 'unknown' route that wasn't in the AF guide, but the guide read like that 'unknown' was Wilderness .12a/b...not the case. It was only an 11c. So w/ that mistake, i am still only 1/31. Worked the 'real' route all day today, couldn't get it on RP. A bummer day for sure, to find something like that out... oh well... live & learn, stay positive & keep climbing. It's great to hear everyone is making great progess. Keep it up.


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By Ryan J
From chattanooga tn
May 7, 2012

just stumbled upon this thread. 29 5.13's is gonna be a difficult year!

Im at 9 so far...

Mechanical Bull 13a@ Endless Wall
The Sweetest Taboo 13b @ Endless Wall
Phone Home 13a @ The Meadow
Angry Birds 13c @ Drive By
Doug Y Doug 13a @ Lizard Wall
Farmacopeia 13b @ Alabama
Mongo's Fury 13a @ Deep Creek
La Madre 13a @ Real
The Word Made Flesh 13b @ Concave

I like the goal of adding to this list!


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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From Salt Lake City, Utah
May 7, 2012

This article may help people who are trying to set climbing goals.


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By SMR
May 9, 2012

I am familiar with that unkown route. Dave Bradd bolted it back in 2001 and without a new guide it is easy to confuse routes at these walls . Grade is 11b or c.
It sucks to realize it is not what you think . Keep plugging away at the goal .


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By Ryan J
From chattanooga tn
May 10, 2012

10/29
Showboat 13b Concave


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By j-dubs
From Eugene, OR
May 11, 2012

I'll play too. My goal is to redpoint 10 5.10 trad routes and 11 5.11 sport routes by the end of 2012. So far I'm 2/10 on trad and 1/11 on sport. Thanks for the inspiration!


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 11, 2012
El Chorro

LeeAB wrote:
Really? So I can't "on-sight" a sport climb, or "flash" a trad route?


Not that it matters, but sure you can flash a trad route. I sort of use the terms interchangeably when sport climbing though. Line of bolts tell you where to go and sometimes a lot of chalk as well.

Only you know if the bolts and chalk help, but on my hardest "onsights" I notice that bolts and chalk help me make decisions faster. For me that's not on sighting. If, however, I'm on some rarely traveled route with no chalk then it can feel very much light onsighting.


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By Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
May 11, 2012

Ryan Williams wrote:
Not that it matters, but sure you can flash a trad route. I sort of use the terms interchangeably when sport climbing though. Line of bolts tell you where to go and sometimes a lot of chalk as well. Only you know if the bolts and chalk help, but on my hardest "onsights" I notice that bolts and chalk help me make decisions faster. For me that's not on sighting. If, however, I'm on some rarely traveled route with no chalk then it can feel very much light onsighting.


This makes no sense. Of course those things help you on a sport climb. How would you prefer to differentiate between watching someone do the route first and then flashing it, or not having any prior knowledge of the route and on-sighting it. That's what these terms were made for- not for only utilizing them on a trad route- which can also have shit tons of chalk on it. So do you measure the amount of chalk before claiming an on-sight or a flash?


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 11, 2012
El Chorro

Jeff Chrisler wrote:
This makes no sense. Of course those things help you on a sport climb. How would you prefer to differentiate between watching someone do the route first and then flashing it, or not having any prior knowledge of the route and on-sighting it. That's what these terms were made for- not for only utilizing them on a trad route- which can also have shit tons of chalk on it. So do you measure the amount of chalk before claiming an on-sight or a flash?


The terms were created to describe what the top climbers of their day were doing, and how they were doing it. In reality, none of us climb hard enough for it to matter (OK, maybe LeeAB does).

It's really just a joke that we have in NC: You can't on-sight many popular climbs anymore. You've either seen someone do it, seen a picture or a video of it, read about it in the guidebook, or can see all the chalk and ticks.

I realize I am making a huge generalization and negating an on-sight for any of those reasons is a bit of a reach - but in the end it IS just a joke.

This has been a great thread so far, let's keep in that way and take the semantics discussion somewhere else.


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By lewisslc
From Salt Lake City, Ut
May 11, 2012

"This has been a great thread so far, let's keep in that way and take the semantics discussion somewhere else."

+1


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