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30 Seconds Over Potash 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, solo, Nov 1988
Page Views: 16,208
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Sep 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (313)
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Rick Sanders on TR. Photo by Angela Arp.

Description 

This is one of the classic must-do moderate routes. It almost always has someone on it or in line (sorta like Supercrack at IC). And it's definitely worth the wait. Expect a sustained climb with three definite parts, and good rests in between each - it's harder than it looks, and the cruxes are pumpy.

Reach the climb about 350 feet (less than .1 mile) past a large break in the otherwise solid wall of Wall Street. If you pass a long (several hundred feet) section of lower angled slabs, you've gone too far.

Lieback and jam a left-facing corner (with a couple of face features for variety) at the right end of a 3-car turnout for 80' to good anchors on the facing wall. Rap the route.

Protection 

Standard rack to #2 camalot, small to medium TCUs and chocks, and a pink tri-cam is useful off the ground.


Photos of 30 Seconds Over Potash Slideshow Add Photo
My second trad lead.
My second trad lead.
Climbing 30 Seconds to Potash at night
Climbing 30 Seconds to Potash at night
Rick Barrett on 30 Seconds
Rick Barrett on 30 Seconds
Tim Noonan on "30 Seconds Over Potash". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Tim Noonan on "30 Seconds Over Potash".
Photo by B...
Signature sitting belay by Ben.
Signature sitting belay by Ben.
Tony Bubb gets started on "30 Seconds Over Potash" (10a) Joseffa Meir Belays. Photo by Jenny Schillinger, 2003.
Tony Bubb gets started on "30 Seconds Over Potash"...
Upper 2/3 of the route from behind-the-belay perspective
BETA PHOTO: Upper 2/3 of the route from behind-the-belay persp...
the upper crack..sweet jams
the upper crack..sweet jams
workin out the lay back section
workin out the lay back section
James dancing above Potash Road.
James dancing above Potash Road.
cleaning the route
cleaning the route
Logan Berndt leading 30 Seconds Over Potash.
Logan Berndt leading 30 Seconds Over Potash.
First desert lead! Great climb with plenty of rest points and gear placement.  Crux is the start.
First desert lead! Great climb with plenty of rest...
30 Seconds Over Potash
30 Seconds Over Potash
Grant seconding 30 Seconds Over Potash on a beautiful October day.
Grant seconding 30 Seconds Over Potash on a beauti...

Comments on 30 Seconds Over Potash Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 11, 2014
By Wes Allen
From: Lexington, KY
Mar 26, 2002

Very fun route, you can stem the thin section pretty easy without have to layback.
By Paul Nelson
Aug 25, 2002

This is one of the best introductions to Wingate climbing in southern UT. Awesome, and it was my first trad lead ever.
By Aki
Mar 31, 2003

Fall of 2003. I found this to be a great first desert lead. In fact it was the first crack I ever climbed in the desert and the first real ( I think ) hand/finger jams i've done. Next time I'll use tape. I'm starting to understand the OW! Anyways, there's excellent protection all the way up and plenty of places to rest and fiddle with gear. Would recommend this to all first time leaders.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 5, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The crux is at the bottom and protects well on a few med/large stoppers or TCU's. Take a #3 camalot, contary to the rack advice to a #2. You can do it with nothing bigger than 1.5" but why? You can sew it up if you take a little more.

Good fun, but not a classic. 1.5 stars in my opinion.

A little harder than most 5.8's.
By Brejcha, Matthew
Mar 27, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Sucks there isn't more than one pitch. I felt the curx was the first few moves and it got easier the higher I got. TAKE A #3 Camalot, you can keep moving it up with you from about halfway until you need a number 2 (I think about 20 feet). There were other, more difficult placements, but why? My rack(from what I remember): a big stopper for the beginning, a yellow Alien for the next move group, a #3 Camalot, a #2 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots and another yellow Alien. I think I sewed her up good, but I could be wrong. Most all placements bomber. I also remeber there may have been another stopper or two in there. Great moderate route, it seemed like there were tons of rests and stances. Fantastic roadside beer sippin', camp chair sittin', enjoy the sun and the semis route. No trucks on the weekends. Enjoy!
By vince pierce
Dec 13, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Since there is little else on wall street in this range and because the route is so much fun... this climb is often crowded. Lots of good rests and plenty of pro make for a great moderate route.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2005
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Two #3 Camalots are recommended to really sew it up. Of course, I only had one!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

good climb, two obvious cruxes....i managed to put the #3 in low- ran it out so far, i might as well have soloed the damn thing....
By John Maguire
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 27, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome climb! It helps to have either a standard rack to #3 Camelot or doubles of #2 Camelot...
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 16, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome! The crux is definitely low, and is semi reachy. The rest sews up well, and agreed that it"s good to be doubled up on bigger camalots, as I placed #s 1 through 3 up higher.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I hate lay-(lie-)backing and found this desperate for a 5.8. My mate also fell off the start several times, so I think it's a case of hard moves close to the ground being under-rated. UK hard 5b. Or maybe I'm just getting too old.
By rick gardiner
From: Grand Junction, CO,
Apr 5, 2010

Rope soloed this climb on 4/2/10 and found it to be harder than Flakes of Wrath. Even on TR after I led it seemed hard for an .8. Better have your crack skills down for this one! Gear to #3 Camalot
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a great climb! The bottom crux is the most difficult. Takes good pro, it's got pretty secure stances to place from, and a #3 cam would be nice here!
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb! I felt like it was made for me (175lb 6ft dude). Perfect hands almost the whole way up. There was always a good stance for placing gear as well. If you can handjam and foot jam properly, then this route is a lot of fun and not too bad. The hardest move is the start b/c it is now pretty slick (from so many attempts), that's the only part I really had to lie-back. You can figure out the other parts without lying back if you're tall enough. Wish I could have done it twice!
By Tyjacobo
From: Salt lake city, UT
Dec 8, 2012

I found this to be harder than a 5.8. Seems more like an 5.9 or 5.10+. Maybe I'm just weak. Used Camelots .75 to #3, and a large stopper for the 1st placement, almost lost it. Apparently a lot of nuts get stuck in this obvious taper.
By Dave Mason
Dec 27, 2012

Great climb but harder than 5.8. More like 5.9+. Takes good gear and never run out. Kicked out a stopper on the lie back and was glad I had placed a back up cam.
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Apr 8, 2013

Does anyone know what the bolted line to the right of 30 seconds is?? It felt really hard.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Apr 9, 2013

It's called Rynomight or something close to that.
By Dave Bail
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

So easy! But of course I am so good. 5.7 or easier.
By Brant Kreun
Mar 11, 2014

Lost an anchor set up on this route March 8th. Let someone clean it for me because of the long line of people waiting to get on. Went a little further up the road and lost track of them. Let me know if you see this and it was you that cleaned it for me! I would love to have that set up back!