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30' Ground Fall on YouTube
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Apr 26, 2013
1. No instruction on how to belay
2. Communication...too much can she take a cup of shut the hell up??
3. Gear placement abundant but he fails to take advantage even though he is breathing hard which to me indicates he needs lots of gear.
4. Nice tight belay on second try, a little tighter and she could have pulled him off for the 2nd time and finished the job.
5. Good use of slings etc. to equalize the anchor right?? No wrong
6. Never took the time to see if he was really injured just started climbing.
Too many things to even continue to count that are wrong on so many levels.

It was definite attempt to commit suicide that failed.
DavidLG
Joined Jul 4, 2011
5 points
Apr 26, 2013
I watched up until he fell.

I NEED to quit the internet.

Chris treggE wrote:
Also, what a chosspile.


It looked like the route was half mud.
Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Joined Apr 18, 2012
78 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: tanuki
If you pause the video right after he lands and look closely at his belayer you will see that her brake hand is not on the rope at all. (EDIT - See Matt's pic below. I was wrong. She does have her brake hand on the rope, just the wrong side.) She tried to stop him with her other hand on the other side of the ATC. The thing that amazed me most was her total lack of understanding that she almost killed the dude. He didn't seem to phased by the fall either.

Matt, I won't argue the point with you and I do totally understand what you are saying. The kid is obviously very ignorant of the risks he is taking and has not educated himself on the basic craft of climbing. HOWEVER, he is out there getting after it. If he lives long enough, his gear won't be shiny for long. I see too many posers with massive new racks that only toprope and talk big. With that in mind, this kid is refreshing. At 45 years of age, I look back at my first few year of climbing and cringe at how ignorant I was and the risks I took, both out of hubris and ignorance. I got lucky and a mentor found me. I hope that someone more experienced will take this kid under his wing.

Now, who looked at the anchor at the end of the "aid climbing" video. OMFG, it is a disaster!
NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
71 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: OTL
NC Rock Climber wrote:
The kid is obviously very ignorant of the risks he is taking and has not educated himself on the basic craft of climbing. HOWEVER, he is out there getting after it. If he lives long enough, his gear won't be shiny for long. I see too many posers with massive new racks that only toprope and talk big. With that in mind, this kid is refreshing.


Another one of his videos - he states he's been climbing 14 years and really gotten into the last 3.

Must have 9 lives.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
492 points
Apr 26, 2013
NC Rock Climber wrote:
I see too many posers with massive new racks that only toprope and talk big. With that in mind, this kid is refreshing.


How is being cautious instead of being a complete dumbass refreshing? Its "refreshing" to almost see a dude kill himself!?
EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Apr 26, 2013
EricSchmidt wrote:
How is being cautious instead of being a complete dumbass refreshing? Its "refreshing" to almost see a dude kill himself!?


Oh. My. God. Am I losing it?


I agree with Schmidt.
Eric G.
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Joined Apr 18, 2012
78 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: OTL
NC Rock Climber wrote:
If you pause the video right after he lands and look closely at his belayer you will see that her brake hand is not on the rope at all.


Its totally on the rope - just not the braking side.

Rock Climbing Photo: .
.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
492 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: tanuki
Matt N wrote:
Another one of his videos - he states he's been climbing 14 years and really gotten into the last 3. Must have 9 lives.


Wow! Based on some of the BASIC mistakes he makes and his level of ignorance, I thought that this kid had just been climbing for a few months. Either he is not being honest about his experience or he is MUCH stupider than I thought. Not knowing what you are doing after a few months is one thing. Being ignorant of the basic craft of a potentially life ending endeavor after "really being into it" for three years is just stupid. Wow.
NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
71 points
Apr 26, 2013
Matt N wrote:
Its totally on the rope - just not the braking side.


After seeing how ignorant the climber is of saftey, not only can I not fault the belayer, but I feel sorry for her as she is probably learning many dangerous habits from him.
Matt Wilson
From Vermont, USA
Joined May 15, 2010
261 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Giddy as a school boy!
NC Rock Climber wrote:
(EDIT - See Matt's pic below. I was wrong. She does have her brake hand on the rope, just the wrong side.)



Actually you were right the first time. If you look closely, right after he falls, he looks back to her only for us to see her quickly put her hand on the break! (she knew she fucked up and was trying to cover it up)

If you check out some of his other crappy videos you'll be blown away by how ignorant these people are. (belayers AND climbers alike)

What is REALLY scary is that noobs like these are becoming the norm. I see fucked up shit like this all the time around Boulder crags. It's pretty trendy around here :-)
SendaGorilla
From Boulder
Joined Jul 29, 2010
112 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Aiding. Photo by Locker.
I never had a mentor. I read books and taught myselft the rest out in the real world. The key is to not be an idiot. On my very first day of climbing, I would have known this guy was dangerous.

Because, go figure, I educated myself about the deadly thing I was trying to do *before* I got out there and put my life on the line. But hey, that's just me.
teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 16, 2012
637 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Temple crag, dark star
I hope he decides to chime in.

facebook.com/jfgp147?ref=hl
David prsn
From Bishop
Joined Oct 17, 2012
100 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Aiding. Photo by Locker.
FWIW, the belayer is cute and I'd totally let her belay me, terrible as she is, in the hopes of getting somewhere. However, I'd make for damn sure it was on terrain beyond easy for me, and someplace with *solid rock*. The only times I've ever taken completely surprising and instant falls were when rock broke, so I would really want to minimize the possibility of that happening!

It's amazing how stupid pretty ladies can make straight guys.

But this guy seems to have bigger problems.
teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 16, 2012
637 points
Apr 26, 2013
If you look at his facebook video page you'll see that he is looking for SPONSORSHIP. SethG
Joined Aug 17, 2009
277 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexico
Holy hubris Batman!! Check out the interview on the youtube page.

Am I the only one who thinks the fact that his belayer doesn't know how to belay is completely his fault? I wouldn't be surprised if this was her first time belaying ever from this video. Proper instruction folks. Make sure your noob belayer knows what the hell they are doing before you leave the ground.
Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,033 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: tanuki
Interview? Link please. NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
71 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: approach to the Grand
I. Am. Sick. Of. This. BULLSHIT. This guy sucks, no questions asked. you know he does because he helmet cam's his sh#%$y climbing. More and more of this kind of noise is popping up and it's causing me some serious concern for the upcoming generation of climbing. You know, in the past couple of months or so, I have seen countless people between Shelf Road, Indian Creek, Red Rocks and BoCan putting their belay locker through their hard points instead of their, what's that thing called, oh yeah, a belay loop. I wonder why we call it this? certainly not to belay from. hopefully the weenies get too scared one day and sell their shiny unused racks on MP for dirt cheap. I could use a few .75's
Good Grief,
Jon
Jon C. Sullivan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2010
31 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexico
The speed soloing video is clutch as well. I don't know what is worse, this guys videos or the fact I am watching them on the first warm and sunny day in weeks.
Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,033 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard
Get this guy a reality show STAT!!! Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,436 points
Apr 26, 2013
Definitely isn't anywhere close to 30 feet. Dustin Drake
Joined Feb 12, 2012
5 points
Apr 26, 2013
Isnt she using a grigri? So I am going to guess he was just in groundfall territory and would have decked regardless of belay technique. Plus arent grigris technically "hands free" anyway? EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard
EricSchmidt wrote:
Isnt she using a grigri? So I am going to guess he was just in groundfall territory and would have decked regardless of belay technique. Plus arent grigris technically "hands free" anyway?


Look at the vid still, looks like she has two, count 'em, two atc devices on her. Both being employed about as effectively, I might add.
Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,436 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Best climbing pants EVER
This kid clearly places a lot of stock in being "a climber." Maybe one of the more benevolent among us who leaves nearby Mr. Fleming can take him out and re-teach him everything he thinks he knows. If not, it will inevitably be the same guy who doesn't take him out who will wind up coordinating his rescue when Jason craters from more than 30' (haha, yeah right) off the ground. Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
133 points
Apr 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Mexico
At the end of the video you can see it is clearly an atc.

Ha Jon, I am moving to Albuquerque next week, where this guy lives. Maybe I'll just stick to bouldering for a while.
Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,033 points
Apr 26, 2013
SethG wrote:
If you look at his facebook video page you'll see that he is looking for SPONSORSHIP.

Maybe he can get sponsorship from a life insurance company.
Matt Wilson
From Vermont, USA
Joined May 15, 2010
261 points


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