3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling 5.12a
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Climbing through the upper crux just a move away f...
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The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
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Description Sustained climbing for the first four bolts with great movemet. The crux comes after the 2nd bolt. Technical footwork get you past the thin crimpers to the better holds at the 3rd bolt. Work left, get up on the shield shelf, hitting some more small pockets. Finally reaching the rail that slants to the right, pause and slow down your breathing. A few more easy moves and clip the chains.
Location On the ledge, look for the belayer bolt, that leads up the underside of the roof and up.
Protection Bolts, Chain anchor. Stick clip the first unless your have it dialed. The wise belayer will stay tethered into the bolt to aviod getting drug off the ledge, and especially if the climber falls before the first bolt.
Beta Notes This route can get wet and slick after it rains, especially when it is cold. Problem is the sloper up between second and third bolts that seems especially prone to slickness.
Ratings Notice I loaded this route as a 12a. Actual rating is still in dispute. Originally, it was commonly referred to as an 5.11a, but that really seems soft. My source rated it as a 5.12a, and I have yet to meet someone else who has sent it. Climb it, let me know if you think this is too far out of line.
| Comments on 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling |
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By GummyBears
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| I would agree 5.12a on this one. Difficult move off a crimper to a jug after the 2nd bolt solidifies the grade. |
By HoseBeats
Mar 16, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| It could be 11d. The crux is short and once you make it to the bucket left of the traverse you can get all your juice back. The top isn't a gimme but the difficulty eases off for the last few bolts. |
By Abel Jones
From: Hickory, NC
Jan 31, 2011
| I have climbed this yes... I second the 11d. Not technical enough for a face 12a but hard. |
By Jerry432
From: odessa texas
Feb 24, 2013
| I have to go with the 12a rating. Although the moves arent hard its sustained and i feel has crux shortly followed by strong move sequence |
By Riffraff
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.11d
| I'm not sure about this rating, I did it last week in a full body cast (resulting from a brutal go cart accident). I was able to make it to,the anchors using only my teeth, I've had problems with this method on anything over 11b. I did put sticky rubber on my K9's though, maybe that helped, who knows!! |
By Jerry432
From: odessa texas
Mar 7, 2013
| Yeah I remember that guy Riffraff out there. He kept saying he would get kicked out of high school for not wearing a shirt, then the school would call him right back so he could coordinate a fashion show! Although he did do that route pretty easliy.... who knows I still feel a soft 12 is the verdict. |
By Riffraff
Mar 7, 2013
rating: 5.11d
| 8==D----- |
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