(9) Above the Waves Rock Climbing
Just beyond the southern edge of the Golden Valley amphitheater is a short bench of rock. Climbing up this you will reach what is sometimes called The Gold Wall, or the Euro Wall, or The Catwalk. There will be a prominent roof just above your head. Several amusingly-named moderate trad routes, such as Golden Shower, ascend half of this wall to a horizontal. If you're feeling bold, you could venture to the top of the wall, as bolted anchors (2011) exist for rappel. Step up another short dihedral to an even higher platform to experience the European's legacy: adventures like Snake Alley. These were the only multi-pitch sport routes at Long Dong. Unfortunately, current bolt status is highly questionable. They can be climbed with trad gear, which is highly recommended, as they top out to some incredible views.
Beyond this, the platform descends to a slick, shellfish-encrusted catwalk that is often battered by waves and wind. When the ocean is calm, you can access a few excellent trad routes like Catfight and the Cathouse beyond.
The Cathouse is one of the least accessible and least visited areas of Long Dong. The only bolts here are anchors. However, for the adventurous traditional climber, this is where it's at. A concentration of super high-quality routes ascend the cracks that break up this multi-tiered section of cliff.
The approach can be treacherous during high tides. If you're thinking of climbing here, scope the waves from the southern Golden Valley ledges. Some of the climbs start on the thin walkway itself, but the majority start on the ledge above. This ledge is set far above the waves, and is an extraordinary setting. If the seas are calm, you can even traverse around the base of this cliff towards the sea, and take a dip in the perfect self-contained pool.
The cliff faces east-southeast. Lots of morning sun, dipping into the shade in the early afternoon. It can be exposed to a lot of wind and spray, as well.
From the southern parking lot, descend the Golden Valley trail. When you find yourself at the base, turn right and head south past the Golden Valley climbs, until you have to climb a ramp up to the overhanging start of routes like Golden Shower. Continue past Tofu Tower and multi-pitch sport routes. Beware of waves and slick rock at high tide!
Routes like Catapult begin at a flat section of rock at the base of a wide, broken 20' dihedral. This is the approach to the main area, containg routes like BA Insanity. This section is 5.2ish, but can be treacherous with a big pack and crashing waves. Be careful.
If the seas are very calm, you can approach from Backdoor as well.
Climbing Season For the Long Dong (Dragon Cave) area.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in (9) Above the Waves
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (9) Above the Waves:
Snake Alley 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For (9) Above the Waves
Climax 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Asia
: ... : (9) Above the Waves
This route is described as three separate pitches in Matt's book - Prelude, Climax, Come Again. However, it can easily be done as two. Start up the left side of Tofu Tower on big holds. Continue up the slab to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Clip a bolt and continue up on steepening stone to a horizontal below a blank face. Step left here and pull up and around the roof. Layback along a flake to another roof. Crux it out onto the face to the right with a wide selection of margina...[more] Browse More Classics in International