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2nd Leftmost of Left of Right 

WI5 M4

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus: WI5 M4 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: late fall/winter
Page Views: 1,438
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 14, 2001

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Left var M5 12/01. Photo by Brian Rolfson.

Description 

This is a smear that goes up to thicker ice to the right of the right-facing corner. Start up on rock moves in a corner. Move out right onto the verglas. Half way up the ice is thick enough to swing at. There used to be a pin at the top with a sling around a 1 1/2" branch, but the pin fell out in my bare hands. The traverse to the Left of Right exit is slabby rock. This could use a couple bolts for anchors and perhaps a bolt on the traverse to exit or set up the TR?

Protection 

A lot of imagination. Per Randy Slavin, a fun lead, beginning in the right-facing rock corner with natural pro (cams, nuts, hex?), a (tied-off) stubby or 2 getting onto the thin smear, then another piece of rock pro to finish.

Toprope Protection 

1-3" rock pro for directionals.


Photos of 2nd Leftmost of Left of Right Slideshow Add Photo
Right var M4-5 12/01.
Right var M4-5 12/01.

Comments on 2nd Leftmost of Left of Right Add Comment
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By Randy Slavin
Jan 11, 2007

This is actually a fun lead, beginning in the right-facing rock corner with natural pro (cams, nuts, hex?), a (tied-off) stubby or 2 getting onto the thin smear, then another piece of rock pro to finish. On lead, the top-out is pretty wacky: crank over the rock lip into deep sugar snow and lots of dirt, clawing at alder branches and wondering what the hell you're doing....

Enjoy!
By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Feb 8, 2010

A great trad line indeed! Not all routes need a name, but out of simplicity I like to think of it as the "West Corner". Bring a single set rack of 2" down to the smaller cams (0 BD TCUs). Nuts not really necessary. The route eats up cams, so fun. 2 stubbies are good and the top-out can vary. I personally liked the 1st of 2 right-facing corners. It is cleaner, has a killer hand and finger jams and deals with less vegetation. Of course you could continue up the 2nd corner or trend right onto the anchor of the easy WI3 ice. Due to the excellent natural protection options, no bolts have been placed on this line. There are plenty of trees above to set anchors from. Enjoy!
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 9, 2010

Rob, nice job! Interestingly, your line is probably further left than the dribble we climbed. Maybe Randy described your line, too? Maybe we should split it into 2 separate descriptions?

Addendum: to make it clearer, I've gone ahead and incorporated your comment into a new submission for West Corner and reassigned it to you, Rob. Thanks!