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1st Apron, Left Side  T 
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2nd Apron Left Side T 
2nd Apron Right Side T 
2nd Apron, Right Side Dihedral T 
3rd Apron Left T 
Cheap Date [1st Apron] T 
Napkin (2nd Apron), The T 
Slip and Slide [1st Apron] T 

2nd Apron Right Side 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 850'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,949
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of select routes up the 2nd Apron.

Description 

This is a great apron of stellar, alpine granite that allows routes just about anywhere you want. It's a great, bite-sized, alpine romp. 30-35 minute jaunt to the base from Summit Lake. Can be a bit of snow at the base. Expect to pay if you arrive after 7am at the toll booth. Note, it is an alpine route with all sorts of objective hazards, so be prepared.

This is the yellow line in the beta photo to the right.

P1. This line followed a right-angling crack/dihedral at the right end of this face 5.6 s to a big ledge.

P2. Go left to a left-facing dihedral. Not much pro but carefully stand of various clods of dirt between jams, then up and left to a corner, 160 feet.

P3. Go up a 5.7 corner to a left-leaning groove, up and traverse left. Go up to the edge of a higher panel and up 25 feet to an angling ramp, 160 feet.

P4. Go up a groove left to a right-angling crack, traverse left at a ledge to a thin crack, go up, traverse left to a ledge/slot, 160 feet. #4 Friend useful for belay.

P5. Angle generally left to broken terrain, fire up a 5.4 slot to a small ledge and dihedral, 160 feet.

P6. 25 feet more get you to the top.

Descent: Walk off right past the 3rd Apron or traverse left to the parking lot at the top to hitch a ride down. Watch out for electrical storms.

Protection 

Wires, a few larger hexes, a set of cams to #4 Friend, helmet, a smile. Note, the above description predated owning a 60m rope.


Photos of 2nd Apron Right Side Slideshow Add Photo
Mike checks out the start of the climb to the left of this line. <br />See that pretty flake? Follow it!
Mike checks out the start of the climb to the left...
Mikey leaving the first belay. I ended P1 at a point about 20 feet up and two the right of the "M". Comfy.
Mikey leaving the first belay. I ended P1 at a poi...
The route, just above the distinctive "M" formation in the middle part of the face. If this picture doesn't excite you, check your pulse.
The route, just above the distinctive "M" formatio...
The yellow is the first route I took, the blue is the route I took this time, the red is where Hammertime went. The yellow routes first pitch is dicey, especially if one continues straight up from the fixed pin (green x).
BETA PHOTO: The yellow is the first route I took, the blue is ...
Carson belays near the top of the climb.
Carson belays near the top of the climb.
Route taken 09/08/2013.
BETA PHOTO: Route taken 09/08/2013.
View of summit lake and the parking lot from the top. Stellar.
View of summit lake and the parking lot from the t...
What a view! Class 3 from here to West Ridge of Evans, about 50m above.
What a view! Class 3 from here to West Ridge of Ev...
Jeff starting up the first pitch.
Jeff starting up the first pitch.
2nd or third pitch?
2nd or third pitch?
Debby finishing the 2nd Apron high above Summit Lake basin.
Debby finishing the 2nd Apron high above Summit La...
The start of our climb on the 2nd Apron (right of Right Side route) on August 1 2009!
The start of our climb on the 2nd Apron (right of ...
On pitch 1.
On pitch 1.
We started up this flake to the left of another obvious crack. The laybacking was high quality!
We started up this flake to the left of another ob...

Comments on 2nd Apron Right Side Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 2, 2014
By shad O'Neel
Aug 18, 2002

This climb has good rock and position, but is more of 5.4 than a 5.7. We took too much gear, mostly placed Aliens, nuts and a big 3-4 Camalot with not much needed in between. At the top, we did a fun hand traverse under a roof right along the right edge that then turned into pretty fun exposed slab for 15 feet to a great roof. By doing these couple moves we made it 5.7. Really fun though. Oh, we got to the pay booth at 7 am and were charged $10- so they are there earlier than 7:45....
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2002

I'd agree this isn't 5.7 - probably 5.5 is a reasonable rating. I would also agree that Aliens and lots of stoppers protect this well - I never would have needed the larger cams I brought, maybe bring a 1 and 2 Camalot but nothing bigger.

The rock quality is a little suspect in places. Lots of hollow rock, loose flakes, and rocks on ledges everywhere. Be careful what you pull on and more importantly where you place gear, and be careful if someone is climbing under you.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 21, 2002

Thanks for drawing the topo, Leo. Looks like I did a different line, which basically followed the very prominent dihedral system to the right of the right side route (I thought the right side route was the center route). That may explain why I never found a move of 5.7 and was climbing through a few very large loose flakes.
By shad O'Neel
Aug 23, 2002

Yeah, I was off the line too! the pic helps - thanks [Leo]! There is another question mark shaped crack just left of the right side line that confused me into this route. Next time I'll get on route. The right line described by Leo actually jived quite well with the climbing, except for the grade. A fixed sling and some other climbing trash (tape, drink cap) led me to believe I was on route. If you do follow the big corner, it's fun and easy and there are some convoluted boulder problems at the top.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 21, 2003

Absolutely awesome, stellar, spectacular climb and, on a clear Saturday morning, we had the entire area to ourselves. Routefinding was no problem, thanks to Leo's posted picture. Protection was adequate, although some of the easier sections felt slightly runout. There were only a few moves that felt 5.7. Not to be missed: about 400 ft. up, very near the right edge of the face, there was a wonderful traverse left on good holds and great gear. Delicious. We did the route in three long (200 ft.) pitches, with an additional 50 ft. of 5.4 to the big ledge at the top. Walkoff to the left was no problem, following a grassy ledge. There's still a fair amount of snow at the base. mike.
By pete cogan
Aug 2, 2003

Terrific route, and a very helpful picture. Many lines are possible here; this was ours: P1 goes to below the "M," on the right side. P2 heads right and stops at the top of a 40 foot or so R facing dihedral. P3 heads L and makes the big, obvious traverse and anchors perhaps 20 feet above this mini roof. P4 stretches it out 195' and ends at a huge rock garden. You are basically done. "Pitch 5" is easy scrambling up, about 140 feet.

All pitches are well over 100 feet. Some flaring cracks, some mossy stuff, but overall good pro.

We used from 00 TCU to #4 Camalot; small tricams; double sets of med - big stoppers. Would leave the #4 behind next time.

Stunning.
By TBD
Jul 11, 2005

This really defines choose your own adventure climbing. Just start climbing, and follow whatever features tickle your fancy. There are many vertical, horizontal, and diagonal cracks. Overall, the rock is very solid and the pro is more than sufficient. I thought it was 5.5-5.6 and does not deserve an "s" rating. Goood fun.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 30, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My partner and I were trying to climb the center route but ended up on I think 3 different routes. We started out below a fixed L.A. (I think) to the right of the center 5.7 route but to the left of the right 5.7 route (I [believe] it was marked in red on the pic.) Anyway, climbed to the piton with no gear, pulled the old sling and used my own (for the meanwhile), and continued over the roof to the right slightly, it seemed pretty tricky for 5.7 (we felt it was about 5.9 due to the slabby nature and no hand holds) we then found [ourselves] on the right 5.7 route for the next [pitch and] a half. Then, we worked over slightly left up a funky crackless crack like feature up to a roof for a slightly hanging belay. After this we worked over the roof by means of a hand to fist sized crack, and [straight] up a bit further until working into the 5.5 dihedral on the right. we belayed until running out of rope then proceded to simultaneously climb to the top. The route was great, but I wish I had a picture at the start of the route so I wasn't so off line. I also wish I had pics of the route, but oh well. Hope this information helps someone. What is that "red marked" route on the pic with the fixed pin? Does anyone know?
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 31, 2005

In answer to your question, the red lines I drew in were wanderings we took trying to figure out where we wanted to climb on various attempts. Allen got to that pin and backed off due to the holdless nature of the route. Perhaps, it was his sling. The other red line I backed off as I decided it was too risky with how far along my wife was at that time. Sorry if it was not obvious from the topo.
By Jeff Lord
Sep 22, 2005

We climbed this route on 8-24-05 in near-perfect conditions. There are all kinds of variations all over the face. There is heavy lichen in some places, but overall the rock quality is excellent. If you stick to the most featured lines of least resistance, it probably goes at about 5.5 and is easily protected with small to medium gear (up to about 2"). You can find 5.7 to 5.8 moves, however, and I chose to run it out quite a bit over some of the easier terrain.

We did it in four pitches all over 175 feet (simulclimbed 10 feet or so on P2) with 100 feet of scrambling to the top after P4.

It had snowed on 8-13-05 and many of the lower, more wind protected ledges were still snow covered. The first belay would have made for very cold and wet feet in rock shoes so I chose a different, more sloping ledge slightly to the west...a little less comfortable, but dry.

A stellar climb in a supreme alpine setting...definitely 3 stars ***.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 2, 2006

Minor detail: the flake shown in AC's photo of Mike is actually 1 crack left of where we went. Also, there weren't any slings or gear in situ when we did it.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 13, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Went for a repeat today. I was the AC July 30 2005, this time I started on route, one crack right for the flake in the pic, found someone left a 4 BD stopper. I thought it was fixed, but my partner pulled it. Weather has shut me down 2 times now up higher on the route, this time it was fog, hail, and sprinkles of rain. I took the 5.5 for about 40 feet while it stormed on me then wandered back left when it let up. I feel cheated once again, I guess I will have to get an earlier start on this one for now on. I think I am going to try to climb this once a year, but we'll see once my skillz progress.
By Hammertime
From: Boulder, co
Aug 16, 2006

This route is slabby, and in places run-out. There are a few trickier moves up thin grooves and lay-backs with far-enough pro that a 5.4 leader would be terrified. So, while I agree with Shad that this is not sustained 5.7, make sure you can lead 5.7 granite before heading up this climb. 5 pitches, no need for cams above #1, bring a lot of small cams, Aliens, and medium nuts.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I personally used a #2 Camalot quite a bit, even made use of my 3 and 4, I believe. The route has a lot of options, and I feel if you were in over your head, you could get on the 5.5 (although it is junk). Also, I have done it in 3 pitches always simultanious-climbing the last 200 or so feet; however, I am always on the 5.5 for the last 200 feet, so far, as well.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 11, 2007

This is one of those "climb anywhere" routes. Easily done in 3 pitches with a 70m rope.
By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Aug 24, 2008

Climbed this route or a rough approximation of it today; 8/24/08, a really awesome and fun climb, there was a decent bit of snow and ice in places on the first pitch thanks to a recent storm, but other than that I thought the conditions were great. We climbed this in 4 pitches running out a 70 meter rope almost to the end on each pitch; I figured maybe 850 feet of roped climbing all in all. I brought a moderate rack small C3s through a #4 Camalot with some bigger hexes and found than other than setting up a few belays I hardly used the bigger pieces, maybe just the route we took. Rock quality was fairly good; stay out of the tempting but grungy dihedral/left-facing corner on the far right; it doesn't get much sun and is mossy/icy/chossy. I thought the pro was pretty good as well; def. be comfortable with decent runouts on 5.7/5.8-ish slabby terrain though, this is kinda one of those "climb anywhere" routes to a degree, assuming your comfortable with the runouts and creative with gear. Was also very surprised to find an ancient webbing rat's nest about 1/2 way up our line, at a point I surely thought we were off route haha....
Highly Recommended Climb; this is a wicked fun route on a classic 14er nonetheless!!
By Crag Mag22
From: Denver, CO
Jul 18, 2009

Climbed this in two parties of two yesterday (7/17/09). My partner and I traversed into the first pitch from a ledge approx 60 feet up and 30 feet right of the standard start described ("a right-angling crack/dihedral). This avoided a belay in the snow and moves that the other party described as "much harder than 5.6s". Our groups completed the remainder of the route more or less together and more or less as described. We experienced a few minor runout sections on rock easier than 5.6. There really are a variety of wonderful possibilities - most that can easily be done with moves not exceeding 5.7-. Lots of wonderful lichen to see, which really didn't make the climbing much more difficult. There was also some loose rock at a belay ledge or two. Just keep your ropes and feet off of it.
By Joe Brannan
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 2, 2009

If you stay on route, there are two 5.7 sections, the flake off the ground and the dihedral after the 2nd belay. We added a 5.8 crack to a small roof on p3 by straying a bit toward the center of the face. Ample gear throughout and super fun. Watch out for ice falling on your dome when its windy.
By Justin Peacock
From: Denver, co
Aug 24, 2009

Fun times! This really is choose your own adventure climbing. Be ready for some runouts, but generally excellent pro when you get it. Also agreed that most of the climbing is 5.4ish, with a touch of 5.7 here and there.

FYI: We did this in 3 pitches with a 70m rope, running the rope out pretty much each time. That got us to the big ledge at the top, and we 3rd classed the last 50 feet to the ridge.
By Brendan Leonard
From: Denver, Hollarado
Jul 11, 2010

What a blast. I think the best part about this area is that so many 5.5-5.7 variations are possible, you don't really need to worry about being on any previously established "route." Fun, a little runout in spots, but a great half-day, accessible alpine adventure.
By Adam Knoff
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2013

Climbed this yesterday. I'd say, without a doubt, that the first 30 feet are the crux, especially for a new trad leader. The right-angling crack is flaring and shallow with awkward placements and very few hands, if any, on the slab above. I'd call it awkward 5.7. Following this, we stayed in the lesser right-facing corner/gully (to the left of the very obvious, large right-facing corner) following the path of least resistance to the top. Nothing harder than 5.4 and other than a lot of rotten rock, very easy placements and easy cruising climbing.

Also, from the top-out, there's about 20 minutes of hiking to the summit parking lot. Head left toward the summit, drop off the backside to the right (as you're facing the summit) and find the cairned trail. Nothing hard, just unexpected. Have fun, great route!
By First Track Jack
From: Evergreen
Sep 2, 2014

Awesome place, once you leave the lot, only a few people venture up there. It has been a very wet Colorado season especially in EVG, so we have delayed trying this route until it dried up a little. Labor day was the last day of the year before road closed so we gave it a shot, even though Evans had snow earlier this week. Approach is 50 minutes, unless you have superhero talus hopping abilities or compare yourself to a young Peter Croft.

Route is easy to find and we completed most of first pitch before the verglas and snow starting getting to us. Clear day, but the wind was brutal also. Kudos to the team in the right dihedral ahead of us for having down jackets; I think they topped out.

We traversed over to the dihedral only to find more snow, verglas and the wind just got worse. We gave the third pitch a go, but after more ice and high winds, we opted to join the party beneath us and bailed via rappel.

Very wet route, lots of seeps and cold!!!! We will be back next year and we will bring the puffy jackets. Met some cool people, and it is always beautiful there until you get back to the masses at Summit Lake.... Maybe next year....