As with the other routes described on the Second Apron, this is a fantastic climb up relatively clean, solid alpine rock. The route generally stays on the left side of the photo below, finishing up the "headwall" which looks like a horn in the upper left of the photo below. The last pitch and a half is above 14K, and you top out right at point 14,256 on Evans' West Ridge. A stroll up the West Ridge proper (if you stay right on the ridge, fun second and third class on solid, sculpted rock) to the summit and a descent of the NE slopes makes for a fun tour of the Evans massif and a relatively short day.
Begin at the left angling crack system on the left side of the snow tongue (no snow there now!) in the photo below, and angle up left to a small overhang. Traverse left under the overhang and over a slab to a right-facing, right-leaning system. Follow this somewhat broken system of cracks, flakes, and slabs for 500-600 feet past mostly solid rock to a large grassy ledge just below the headwall (mostly 5.6 with some 5.7s). Many options exist here, depending on your climbing ability and comfort level. We went straight up to an obvious "pod" in the a crack above the ledge (maybe one move of 5.9), did a delicate hand traverse left (5.8), moved back right on another small ledge to a short finger crack in a dihedral. Ascend this finger crack to a stance behind a leaning block, then climb a perfect, if short, hand and fist crack behind the block to another hand traverse left which deposits you on yet another small grassy ledge (5.8+ in several spots on this section). Another 80-90 feet of 5.6 gets you to the summit from here.
Descent is to the right past the Third Apron, or (recommended) climb the West Ridge to the summit of Evans and then descend the NE slopes (or hitchhike) back to the road and Summit Lake.
Standard rack with wires and hexes. Nothing larger than a #3 Camalot is necessary.
|By Holly Barnard|
Jul 25, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did this route about a week ago and P1 had running water in it. The route is very lichen covered and can be really slippery in places when the lichen meet the water. We ran the rope out for nearly the full 60m for the 1st two pitches. P2 (as we did it) went up relatively tame slab terrain but lacked good pro. The leader needs to be comfortable with long runouts on 5.7 terrain. The upper portion of this pitch got a little steeper and had more protection, but was also laced with loose flakes and rocks - test before pulling in this area. We felt like the crux moves were turning the corner after the 1st traverse right coming out of the pod and the hand traverse after the hand-fist crack. Fun route! The 3rd class traverse over to the true summit was nice and hitchhiking is the way to go in terms of getting back to your car.