This is an alpine treat of snack like portions. It requires a 30 minute approach from the Summit Lake parking lot. Hey, they charge for the drive by 750am. This started closer to the center of the Apron, I believe in the question mark-like crack. Some have felt the cracks are a bit flared, it's alpinesque.
P1. Climb a right-angling crack that can be wet, break left when you can, fire up an overlap, then go up over multiple short slabs angling right to a decent belay at a crack, 5.7, 200 feet.
P2. Angle left, lieback a right-facing corner, up a crack until it peters out, traverse left to a cool dike 5.7 (close up picture in this area) and angle left to a semi-hanging belay, 200 feet. You can use a #9 hex, 0.75 Camalot, red Alien, and wire for the belay.
P3. Go up over an overlap and then the angle lessens to a good ledge, 200 feet.
P4. Continue up easy ground with an optional 5.8 corner to the top, 110 feet.
Hitchhike or walkoff left and down the hiking trail past the 1st Apron or right past the 3rd Apron and down an obvious gully.
A standard light rack of wires, hexes, and cams to #4 Camalot. 60m ropes nice.
BETA PHOTO: Dan cruising P3, 8-4-09.
BETA PHOTO: Topo of select routes up the 2nd Apron.
Leading the second pitch.
You'll notice the distinctive "M" is only the end ...
Nils Albert a couple pitches up.
This is the start crack, which offered some good f...
Nelson - Alpine Style on a bluebell day. Believe i...
From Summit Lake, this is the location of the 2nd ...
Big Bro belaying on comfy 1st belay ledge.
Looking to the Evans summit from 2nd Apron@SEMICOL...
Dan Gabbay leading P4, 8-4-09.
|By Legs Magillicutty|
Jul 5, 2004
Just did this route today. I think we ended up too far left and finished on the Left Route. The route is covered with lichen and moss. Under the lichen and moss is some solid alpine granite. As of today, there is still snow in the descent gully and a small snowfield remains at the base of the apron. The pic from Leo was most helpful. THANKS!!
|By Buff Johnson|
Jan 21, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
The best parts of this route, moderate climbing on good rock quality rock, good protection placements for the belay stations, scenery is awesome, and no touristas. The worst parts were finding just about every seam was a flare, pro was R, and T-storms threats.
Toping out was absolutely amazing. A great alpine climb without much in the way of loose rock or holds, somewhat harder than the First Flatiron East Face (Direct Route 5.6R or 5.6s??).
You'll wander on this route, 2 half (double) ropes @ 60m were a good choice. My last pitch, to make the final ledge, I had rope stretch to spare and 30-40 feet of runout behind me; not to mention the last pitch had a choice of 3 scary looking flares right off of the belay (however the belay was solid, I anticipated a factor 2 and had put in 5 bomber placements - I guess this was due to the exposure). I used pro to 3.5" with a set of tri-cams (I should have left some of the handsized cams at home and used tri-cams for these sizes instead.)