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Pinnacle Peak
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28th Day 
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28th Day 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: fall to spring
Page Views: 613
Submitted By: ldsclimber on Oct 8, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Start on South Crack, head left at a glue in.

Description 

From a huge flat boulder start up a triangular block, head right to a left facing off width corner or left up an easy crack. They both take you to the same place, a squeeze chimney. Clip a glue-in on the left face w/a long runner, then mount the ledge and head left on a ledge. Traverse thin face moves to a right facing flake(takes .3 BD)to another ledge, Plug a .5 and/or #1BD w/ long runner in downward crack. Climb left up the arete making a few airy/thin/dicey/committing moves past a bolt then run it out to the last ledge. Plug a #2 BD in the horizontal crack and climb a steep face past 2 bolts to an R finish on nubs that feel huge by this point on . Ankles have been broken on this route. Serious climb w/bad falls :) Awesome and worth doing!


Location 

Starts off of a big flat boulder


Protection 

.3 -2 bd 1ea.
Four old bolts w/ good hangers:(
5 runners
2 double runner will decrease rope drag. If not it will start weighing on you towards the top while running it out:(


Description 

Start up a triangular block go right into a left facing offwidth lie back or off the block go left up an easy crack. They both take you to the same body squeeze chimney clip a glue-in then mount the ledge and head right on a ledge. Make thin face moves to a right facing flake to a ledge, plug .5 or 1bd in downward crack. Climb a cruxy arete making a few committing face move past a bolt then run it out to a ledge. Plug in a #2 bd in a horizontal climb nubs on a steep face past 2 bolts to an R finish. Ancles have been broken on this route. Serious cliimb w/ bad falls :)


Location 

Starts off of a big flat boulder


Protection 

.3 -2 bd 1ea.
Four old bolts w/ good hangers:(
5 runners
2 double runner will decrease rope drag. If not it will start weighing on you towards the top while running it out:(



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