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Spiney Ridge
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20th Century Man 
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Unsorted Routes:

20th Century Man 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Ashert, Ed Quesada, 1987. Additional bolts - 2000
Page Views: 1,678
Submitted By: Edward Jenner on Apr 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This route is called "20th Century Man" in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook, and "21st Century Man" in Rick Thompson's Cactus Cliff/Spiney Ridge guide. It was mistakenly called "Sunday Pockets" in previous guides.

The climb is located at the right end of the first alcove on Spiney Ridge and follows bolts angling right up a face to a left-facing corner with a crack.

The start is probably done in a variety of ways (I certainly missed out a bunch of chalked holds). Figure out the easiest line that doesn't take you too far from the bolts up and then right to a crack in left-facing corner. Climb the crack/corner to the anchors.

I give this 2 stars for decent rock and reasonable continuity/length, also because I thought is was better than 'Travis is Sole King'.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of 20th Century Man Slideshow Add Photo
Spiney Ridge - left. <br /> <br />Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left.

Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
Christian at the clipping crux.
Christian at the clipping crux.
Comments on 20th Century Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 26, 2014
By Michael Amato
May 10, 2005

Several steep, cruxy moves, good rock and well-placed bolts make this climb one of the best of its grade in this area.

By lbishop
From: Durango, CO
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Pretty decent route. Sustained climbing w/ small feet down low. Good route at the grade.

By Joe Stern
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

"Well-placed bolts," Michael? I found the short flake up to the small tree to be the path of least resistance at the bottom, and the initial bolts to be awkwardly placed for this section. I required an out of the way rightward traverse to clip the second bolt, which gives decent ground fall potential. Primarily an inconvenience for those solid at the grade, but I can imagine this being a pretty puckering bit for someone closer to his/her limit. For what it's worth, I found both Toxxxic Entertainment and Travis is Sole King to be superior climbs for the grade in the same neighborhood. Worth doing, though.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 27, 2010

I agree with Joe - the second bolt especially sucks to clip. Unless you stay away from the flake, which makes this climb a lot harder than .10b. Good route though!

By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

This is a really fun route with good movement through a variety of holds and big holds right where you'd like them to be...with one exception...the second bolt.

I don't think the route is harder than .10a except for the sideways move required only to clip the second bolt. I'm guessing the developer was trying to keep a straight bolt line through the lower section. But, that clip can be a bit sketchy and the climb would still be a fun .10a if the bolt was just far enough right so the clip could be made from the flake.

By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

For some reason the new guidebook calls this 5.10d. I would say it is an easy 10a... probably easier than several of the 9s at Shelf. I'm not sure why the new guide upped the rating (the old one had it at 10a). It is a fun climb whatever the rating may be.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Feb 13, 2012

Hands down hardest .10 I have climbed. Clipping 2nd and 3rd bolt was tricky, and if you're short (like me), it puts you off the big holds and off route, and cleaning this thing was a huge bitch!

By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Feb 24, 2012

I've always thought this is a terrific route but agree with those who feel the first part of the route is poorly bolted. Would be easy to retool the first couple clips and get them into better position. Perhaps Aschert and I will get that done sometime in the near future. Remember, back in the '80s when this route was first established, there wasn't a focus on bolt positioning like there is today, and the standard of the day was far more spicy bolting (meaning more distance between clips, and often harder to clip bolt) than has become the norm today. I remember some of my early sport routes at the New River Gorge (late '80s) that were 80 ft. long and protected by 5 or 6 bolts...talk about spicy! :~)

On an historical note, the route was first done with those intial bolts but protected with trad gear in the upper corner. Rich Aschert added the bolts that now protect the corner (upper half of the route) and anchor in 2000 or there-abouts, but I don't think he did anything with the first couple bolts.

FA: Rich Aschert & Ed Quesada, 1987

...and yes, listing it as 21st Century Man in my original Cactus Guide was a typo! My bad!

By patrick kadel
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Joe and Bill, I never considered climbing the flake, I climbed a line on the face directly at the bolts. It is still a 10b-ish. The face moves of Tractatus were much harder, so a 10b seems close to spot on, and with the huge rests on this route, a few sections of harder climbing were welcome. I would like to think the person bolting this route was trying to keep us off the flake...but with my lack of height, I wouldn't even consider clipping from it. Fun climb.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 30, 2013

Very fun climb when you look past the awkwardly bolted start.... but it goes! Solid 10b.

By kboofis
Feb 26, 2014

Accidently skipped the second bolt because I took the path of the flake and before I knew it the second bolt was at my feet and the third was only a move away. Went for it and happy I didn't fall because that would have been nasty.

Weird bolting down low. Watch out.