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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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By bay
Jan 12, 2012

yeah Sunny-D, when your finished with that backyard rig, head up into the timber canyon per directions posted above and fire the equally impressive excalibur pillar.


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By tenesmus
Jan 12, 2012

This is where my wife's family has their reunion every few years. Cool place. I'd imagine further up canyon there is even more. The cliffs are about 400' tall right at the pinnacles. You can drive in either direction in the canyon.

We floated the canyon in the little Sevelor boat and innertubes. Everything went well till we hit a spot where the canyon was fenced off for cattle. As we tried to get out we stirred up a bees nest, which pretty much sucked. But then, the mosquitoes found us and it turned into a true murder massacre. Everyone was freaking out with 20-40 bites each. It was hilarious except for the kids. That kind of sucked.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 12, 2012
Hummm...

bay wrote:
...strawberry has some good stuff...


And you say they get fatter...excellent! What's the access to "unnamed"? Just march across the field. The photo doesn't show it but the pillar hits the ground from what I could tell with the binos. What about getting across that river for the ones in the woods on forest land? I'm gonna do these even if I have to hangdog...


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By Trever W.
Jan 13, 2012
Near Mt. Challenger, Picket range.

Climbed Miller's Thriller today. There was lots of water running and the ice was pretty aerated and inconsistent. Not a whole lot of screw placements that you can feel good about.


1st pitch
1st pitch




Middle bit with some strange formations and plenty of water
Middle bit with some strange formations and plenty of water




Towards the top of the 1st pitch
Towards the top of the 1st pitch




last pitch
last pitch


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 13, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Sunny-D wrote:
It looks to be 100+ft Zozo, want to go.


Climbed that years ago...be darn careful with the private land. Its really hard to access. And, that home at the base of it...its posted no tresspassing last I checked.

Not sure if the falls itself is on private land, but, in nearly every direction down stream its fenced off.

I'll have to check my notes, but, I think the thing behind the house is only around 60-70 feet tall. Rock is shite.

bay, your "Cicle of Carnage" I've also heard referred to as "Dead Deer Falls"? Anyhoo, done that one a few times. Sometimes its long and big, other times, not so much.

I've never seen Excalibur in for the last bunch of years. I know when Matt H climbed it, it was pretty huge.

Heavy sigh...ha ha...


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Jan 13, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Thanks Brian for the info. I will definitely look closely before I go over there.
Dallen


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By bay
Jan 13, 2012

RonB-

The access to "Unnamed" is across private property. we went in super stealth-mode the best we could circumnaviting the field avoiding the snow patches.

approach Dead Deer Falls ala southfork-style: garbage sack for each leg and wade across. Plenty of trees atop the first pitch to hang a TR on or fix a line to for some Soloist action.

Brian-

your right. "Dead Deer Falls" was the name passed onto Scott Sh years back. Back in '98 the route was stained red from a freshly mangled dear found at the base of the 1st pitch. once at the top of the climb, it was clear that a mountain lion was in the process of dragging/bludgeoning/eating its kill when it apparently lost control of the situation to the ice that lurked beneath the thin layer of snow. hiked back to the car with a tool in each hand...

yeah, back in '00, showed Scott S the unclimbed Excalibur pillar as darkness was falling upon us. unbeknownst, he returned the following weekend with Matt H for the FA poach-job... whatever... yeah, that was the only year i've seen that pillar "protectable". coupla times i've seen it in Sunny-D conditions:)

Sunny-D

the "homeowner" has some photos tagged on google earth. might be able to contact him through his Panoramio account.


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By climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Jan 13, 2012
climbing

RonB wrote:
So, here is what I found along Strawberry River Rd... You should be able to keep clicking on these until you can pan on them...

hay i was wondering where exactly this is?


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By climberbum2
From Park City, Utah
Jan 13, 2012
climbing

Hunter Enochs wrote:
Looking for a partner for some late morning friday ice.

oh bumber i should of checked this i would of climbed with you instead i did an on line driver corse next time i wont make that mistake. give me a call. 801 244 3711 dan


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By Tea
Jan 13, 2012
just Jong it!

"I know when Matt H climbed it, it was pretty huge."

I was climbing with Matt a lot that winter....he dragged me up some awesome routes...including the rarely formed Spear of Fear in Joe's.

Anyway...I remember him saying that pillar was pretty cool...and have looked at it for years since.


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By Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Jan 13, 2012
Tangled up in blue

Beta on Santaquin conditions? Anyone? Bueller?...Bueller?


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By Harry Richardson
Jan 13, 2012

Lost glove several days ago, OR Alabi glove, somewhere between Bridal Veil Falls approach trail (area where you usually put on crampons)and the parking lot...has anyone seen it? good karma and much thanks for the return there of....


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By alpinerocket
From Layton, Ut
Jan 13, 2012
What I do

I would also like a conditions update on Santaquin and Joes. Thanks!


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 13, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Sunny-D wrote:
I will definitely look closely before I go over there.


Checked my notes. We walked across the frozen river about a mile to a mile and a half back down to the west, crossed the pass, and, hugged the cliff to approach that Spring Canyon route. I got 110' tall. We rapped off a pile of bushes...

Simmons Canyon route is 90'.

I got the Dead Deer-cicle as being anywhere from a paltry steep but fun 50 foot curtain, or, up to three pitches. It can be pretty easy to miss in the trees. Amazing someone saw this thing. I got it at mile 4.1 from the junction. We crossed the river and I think someone fell in on the way back to the car...take care.

Might as well dish...at .8 miles from the main road junction towards Timber Canyon, we climbed the route that kinda pours out of a hole in the wall. 75' of WI3ish. V thread anchor.

Bunch of other stuff in there on good years, but, so fickle.

I got Excalibur at the bottom of Jensen Canyon, which is .7 miles up Timber Canyon on the road.

Yee haa.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 14, 2012
Hummm...

bay wrote:
RonB- The access to "Unnamed" is across private property...Brian- your right. "Dead Deer Falls" was the name...route was stained red from a freshly mangled dear...unbeknownst, he returned the following weekend with Matt H for the FA poach-job...Sunny-D the "homeowner" has some photos tagged on google earth...


Bay and Brian, thanks for all the beta and history on my backyard ice. It looked fatter than it may appear in the pics. I need another week or two out here to get all I want to do done, and that wouldn't be enough. Put up molding and my 1st route on the cabin climbing wall today, vice climbing ice or skiing. I'm packing out Monday but I'm back end of March. There was good ice then last year, hope it's so again in 2012. Need to get one of you to take me out in my back yard for a day and show me around.

Stairwell route
Stairwell route


11 ft wall to 15 ft roof. Awaits FA!
11 ft wall to 15 ft roof. Awaits FA!


Mr. Moose approves...
Mr. Moose approves...


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By Harry Richardson
Jan 14, 2012

bump for help finding lost glove


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By alpinerocket
From Layton, Ut
Jan 14, 2012
What I do

Ive got the whole week free to climb starting Monday (Jan 16). Im considering several destinations, Joes, Sanataquin and routes off of Hwy 6. Has anyone been to these areas recently that could share any conditions update. It would be much appreciated. Option #2 check out the routes in Strawberry Canyon posted above, I just would like an little more info on the location. Option # 3 just head to Ouray. Thanks, John


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 14, 2012
Hummm...

alpinerocket wrote:
Ive got the whole week free to climb ...Option #2 check out the routes in Strawberry Canyon posted above, I just would like an little more info on the location...


Go to google maps and type in “Strawberry Pinnacles, Duchesne, Utah”. This is your starting point; the intersection of Red River Rd and Strawberry River Rd. See other posts for mile locations along Strawberry River Rd. and west at “Y” for Timber Canyon Rd. Please, all, try not to pee any private landowners off, I have aspirations to climb these too. Any access beta is appreciated. Hope this helps.

Thanks,
Ron


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By alpinerocket
From Layton, Ut
Jan 16, 2012
What I do

Conditions were good to today at Last Chance Falls in Logan Canyon

Last Chance Falls
Last Chance Falls


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By Nacho Libre
Jan 17, 2012

With the Nat'l Weather Service forecasting 21-40" inches at Alta by Saturday, many of the local ice climbs will be in the crosshairs for slides. Two ice climbers even made the avy report today: Avy report

Have fun, be safe - keep doing the snow dance.


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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Jan 17, 2012
hardcore bouldering

Conditions were good up at Joe's Valley this past weekend--the first two pitches of CCC are in fat (the current on the right side of the first pitch is a little thin, but still good), but the third was slushy and cauliflowered. Deadbolt was also in, with plenty of (wet) ice. Gunlock also looked to be in.


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By alpinerocket
From Layton, Ut
Jan 20, 2012
What I do

The Fang Provo
The Fang Provo


CCC Falls pitch 1. Joes
CCC Falls pitch 1. Joes


Deadbolt. Joes
Deadbolt. Joes


Pricicle
Pricicle


I climbed all of these this past week. Had a great time and the ice was fat. Joes was in spectacular shape and didnt see another climber. We had the whole place to ourselves!


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By Gantt524080
Jan 22, 2012

I am headed to Utah from Georgia this week for 8 days of ice climbing. I am familiar with the routes in Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons but see that the avalanche danger is going to be high from all the recent rain and snow. Are there any other areas or summits, outside of the avalanche prone areas that will be in and good to climb?

Any directions or help would be greatly appreciated!


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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Jan 23, 2012
mountain sunset

The entire wasatch in on high alert, bad snow pack.
Best to let things settle a bit...


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By Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Jan 24, 2012

Anyone know the avalanche conditions around Last Chance Falls in Logan? Danger on the hike in? Slides possible on the climb itself?

Thanks,

Nathan


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