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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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Jan 3, 2012
hardcore bouldering
Looking for a partner to head up to Mary's lake this Thursday, or perhaps this weekend. I'm a weak leader (WI3+) but a reasonably strong second. Let me know.

(208)721-77three3

Thomas
Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Jan 3, 2012
ice shard to the face
Anyone have an update on provo conditions? DuWayne Effland
From pewaukee, wisconsin
Joined Nov 30, 2011
51 points
Jan 3, 2012
Turtle Wall, St. George
Thomas,

The lines at Mary's lake are much harder than WI3+ so be aware before you head down there.
petercoe
From utah
Joined Sep 21, 2009
156 points
Jan 3, 2012
Me in the 70's
In Provo, Stairway & Bridal Veil are still in. Climbed there Monday. bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,882 points
Jan 4, 2012
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this p...
Saw some lines in LCC east of the Y-Couloir driving down from Snowbird on Monday. Went up with some friends to check them out today. Climbed the one farthest right in the photo and had a fun day. The approach involved some bushwacking. There are decent anchors to rap off.
View from the road.  We climbed the line on the ri...
View from the road. We climbed the line on the right.


P.1
P.1


Flagstaff's "A" team.
Flagstaff's "A" team.


Upper pitch.  Camera ran out of batteries here.
Upper pitch. Camera ran out of batteries here.


Anyone climbed the other two lines?
Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Joined May 29, 2002
353 points
Jan 5, 2012
P3 on the Nutcracker.
I am hearing conflicting reports about Joes Valley being fat and weak. Anyone else been down there? I was thinking of going possibly Friday. Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 10, 2011
135 points
Jan 5, 2012
Hummm...
Matt Wolski wrote:
Saw some lines in LCC east of the Y-Couloir...climbed the one farthest right in the photo ...


Matt, do you know what that line is rated, or your best guess? Looks like something I might get up. I'm at my cabin and available to climb any of that for the next couple of weeks, if anyone is interested...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Jan 5, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Matt Wolski wrote:
Anyone climbed the other two lines?


I've done those routes. They're fun. Pretty good amount of ice on the one to the right in the pics. Can be steeper and feel like WI4 for a bit when its lean.

They're mostly easy WI3 type rambles. Should be old tat on most of the tree anchors. Rumor has these as being done for a number of years, with, some folks soloing and walking off the tops (probably down to the east, I'd think).

They usually get pretty buried by snow. Nice options to the crowded GWI.

Thanks for the photo's and update on conditions!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Jan 5, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.
Brian in SLC wrote:
They're mostly easy WI3 type rambles. Should be old tat on most of the tree anchors.


WI3- seems to be my recollection as well, but it's been about 10 years. We climbed the one on the right and downclimbed one of the two on the left. Like Brian said, they're a lot of fun.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,471 points
Jan 5, 2012
hardcore bouldering
Climbed the first two technical pitches of the GWI today, bailing before the curtain, which was rotten, chandeliered, and in generally bad shape. P1 was amazingly stepped out and thin, but the ice was bonded to the rock well enough and it could have taken screws up to 16cm. P2 was hollow and running with water, with enough ice to climb and protect safely on the right side of the flow. P3 looked awful, and the pillar on P4 had a huge diagonal crack that was clearly visible. Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Joined Feb 18, 2010
105 points
Jan 7, 2012
Hummm...
Just to keep this thread on the top, I heard some big blocks came down from the upper pitches of Stairway a day or so ago. Anyone have conformation on that. Planning to climb on Tuesday in Provo Canyon, hopefully, colder temps prevail and firm things up...

Maybe I should just go ice fishing (Strawberry Res...
Maybe I should just go ice fishing (Strawberry Reservoir today)...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Jan 8, 2012
ice shard to the face
anyone been to santaquin lately? Whats in? DuWayne Effland
From pewaukee, wisconsin
Joined Nov 30, 2011
51 points
Jan 8, 2012
I was on the stairway apron saturday morning and there was no sign of anything coming down from above. Looked like the upper pitches were barely (if at all) there though. Glen B
From Murray, UT
Joined Aug 7, 2006
0 points
Jan 9, 2012
Climbed Bridalveil left and right on Sunday. Both are in good shape. White Nightmare is in poor condition.

Bridalveil 1/8
Bridalveil 1/8


Stairway looks in through 5. Though the top out on 5 looks to be tough/dirt.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
254 points
Jan 9, 2012
Hummm...
petercoe wrote:
Thomas, The lines at Mary's lake are much harder than WI3+ so be aware before you head down there.


I was under the impression there was WI3 to be had at Mary's Lake. The guide book also indicates this is so. Is it maybe the lower pitches on longer routes are WI3? If so, are there raps off? Or, should non WI4/5 climbers just stay away?
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Jan 9, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
RonB wrote:
I was under the impression there was WI3 to be had at Mary's Lake. The guide book also indicates this is so. Is it maybe the lower pitches on longer routes are WI3? If so, are there raps off? Or, should non WI4/5 climbers just stay away?


I think, typically, the bigger routes that come in consistantly there are steeper and more sustained than WI3. When they are in, the WI3 stuff can be pretty scary.

Ever seen Monty Python's Holy Grail? The scene with the rabbit? "Oh, he's just a cute little bunny rabbit. One rabbit stew, coming right up.". Note one of the route names is "Rabbit Stew".

Take care.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Jan 10, 2012
Hummm...
Brian in SLC wrote:
..."Rabbit Stew"...


Yeh, I've been on a few like that. Nothing like having 600 feet of thin and aerated "ice" and nothing to bail from to stew over. How do you spell soloing...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Jan 10, 2012
Hey RonB

you live about 20 min away from Strawberry Pinnacles.

how bout you take a quick drive up in there and let us know what the Strawberry Canyon ice is lookin' like. positive that its in fat. generally first ice in last ice out during utah's ice season.

From the Pinnacle Junction:

Head East-
@ ~0.5-mile Unnamed Rig
@ ~1.5-mile Lingley Rig
@ ~3.25-mile Spring Canyon amplitheathre chock-full of rigs. (your assignment is to make nice with homeowner tuck away in the amplitheathre.)

Head West-
@ ~2.7 miles Simmons Short Rig
@ ~3.5 Cicle of Carnage
@ ~5.0 miles (up timber canyon) Timber Canyon Cicle aka Excalibur

thanks man
bay
Joined Apr 9, 2007
22 points
Jan 11, 2012
Hummm...
bay wrote:
Hey RonB...how bout you take a quick drive up in there and let us know what the Strawberry Canyon ice is lookin' like. man


Yeh, I was wondering if that area had ice. I drove through in summer. I'll see what I can do. (Got any coordinates?) Here are a couple shots of Provo Canyon today after crawling around on the lower curtain of STH.

you can zoom these a bit...
you can zoom these a bit...


BVF
BVF
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Jan 11, 2012
holla
Looking for a partner for some late morning friday ice. Hunter Enochs
From Park City, UT
Joined Dec 13, 2007
15 points
Jan 12, 2012
Tangled up in blue
Any word on Santaquin? Specifically, Squash Head and Backoff... Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Joined Dec 15, 2011
35 points
Jan 12, 2012
Hummm...
So, here is what I found along Strawberry River Rd...

1st drip I came to east from Pinnacles
1st drip I came to east from Pinnacles


Mile or so east from Pinnacles and there was a can...
Mile or so east from Pinnacles and there was a canyon that appeared to have ice before or after this.


Smear in the woods just west  from Pinnacles
Smear in the woods just west from Pinnacles


Very interesting pitches in the woods west from Pi...
Very interesting pitches in the woods west from Pinnacles just down Timber Valley Rd


You should be able to keep clicking on these until you can pan on them...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Jan 12, 2012
nice work RonB.

now you know what you have in your backyard.

Okay maybe the ice is not so fat this year. bummer.

the backyark ice in the second photo is lookin' sweet!

the "1st drip" photo (#1) aka Unnamed typically forms a nice tongue all the way down into the trees. requires a V-thread rap.

"pitches in the woods" photo aka Cicle of Carnage is a nice two pitch romp with various options on the first pitch ranging from M4 ice-up corner to WI5 pillar action. 3- on the upper pitch. tree raps.

mixed posibilities are there, but the rock is absolute crap.

strawberry has some good stuff. thanks for posting.
bay
Joined Apr 9, 2007
22 points
Jan 12, 2012
avatar
How tall is the pillar by the house? zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
507 points
Jan 12, 2012
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
It looks to be 100+ft Zozo, want to go. Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points


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