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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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Dec 8, 2011
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I'll be posting this elsewhere, but just wanted to mention that I found a valuable bit of climbing equipment at the base of the Great White Icicle yesterday evening. Appeared to have been there a while. Call me to identify and describe. 801.910.5957 Mark Regier
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 28, 2006
33 points
Dec 8, 2011
want to head out to joes valley for some ice this weekend, has anyone been up there recently and would be willing to share some recent conditions?

Thad
tharlow
Joined Nov 2, 2006
20 points
Dec 8, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Thad,
Mary's lake has more ice then I have seen in years and is still accessible with a 4 wheel drive. I climbed over at slide lake 2 weeks ago and was able to drive further then I have in the past. Several 1000 ft climbs in over there 3-4s V-threads in a couple of them all the way down. A week ago highway to heaven and CCC were in and growing in the main area. We drove up to the Donnercicle and it was forming nicely but not in yet. I have not been over to Huntington yet but my guess there is stuff in over there. We have not had any snow for awhile down there so access is good.
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Dec 8, 2011
Sunny-D
thanks for the great info man, maybe see you out there this sunday.
Thad
tharlow
Joined Nov 2, 2006
20 points
Dec 9, 2011
found a pair o gloves in the stairway gully today. I handed them off to Mountain Works (climbing shop in provo). If you can describe em they are yours.

does anyone know any beta on the mixed or "bolts" on the route to the left of the 2nd pitch stairway-150ft? I put up a variation on wed that goes up n right of the little roof @ the bottom. I couldnt find any anchors up top. Guess they could be covered by ice. dunno. If someone hasnt put in rock anchors, i may put some in for convenience so you can lower off and clean.

went up soft and juicy on wed mornin. was pretty....yup...soft n juicy! The top of the last pillar was back melted and not attached and now its been warmer @ nite. Hasnt fallen but you may want to wait for cooler nite temps to make the march up.
Scott Adamson
Joined Mar 25, 2009
53 points
Dec 9, 2011
Can anyone recommend a good online/print guide to ice around the Salt Lake area? Coming out next week to "ski" but given condition will be happy to climb instead!
Thanks
Dave
Dave Polan
From Worcester, Massachusetts
Joined Oct 20, 2010
183 points
Dec 10, 2011
David Black, Ice Climbing Utah. From Falcon. cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
257 points
Dec 10, 2011
Hummm...
Dave Polan wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good online/print guide to ice around the Salt Lake area? Coming out next week to "ski" but given condition will be happy to climb instead! Thanks Dave


There is also a smattering of routes on this site, like under, "All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Provo Canyon > Provo Canyon Ice"

Cause, I left my guide book at the cabin, with my laptop, and the charger to my barber shaver, duh!
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Dec 11, 2011
mountain sunset
santaquin conditions ?

Anybody been yet?????????
Rob Man
From SLC UT
Joined Oct 24, 2005
44 points
Dec 11, 2011
Hummm...
What are the approach conditions to get into Mary's Lake in January?.. RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Dec 11, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Mary's Lake depending on how you approach will either be 5-10 mile ski on the road (based on how far you can drive) or 3 miles up a steep valley with lots of down timber.
Dallen
Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Dec 11, 2011
Conditions for Little Cottonwood Canyon and some climbs in Provo Canyon:
AS of 12/10/11:

patrickfink.blogspot.com/2011/...
Patrick Fink
Joined May 22, 2011
11 points
Dec 11, 2011
Hummm...
Sunny-D wrote:
Mary's Lake...approach will either be 5-10 mile ski on the road (based on how far you can drive)... Dallen


I'd rather drive...


Snow toy...
Snow toy...



On top 3' of snow in the back yard...
On top 3' of snow in the back yard...
RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Joined Dec 5, 2011
262 points
Dec 11, 2011
white spider in rock canyon looked in, but beyond me how it could ever be harder than Wi2. my wife saw it and laughed at it, although she has been sandbagged to the point of being jaded notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Dec 11, 2011
I lost a BD Viper ice axe at the GWI today, either in the descent gully or at the base of the route. I'm forever in your debt if you find and return it. 801-205-1047 Steve Bott
Joined Sep 28, 2010
1 points
Dec 15, 2011
Anyone been up to willard canyon recently (since posted pics)? shakey
Joined Mar 27, 2008
11 points
Dec 15, 2011
We were up there on Sunday the climb is in great shape, fat conditions from what the Ogden locals were saying. No rock gear needed. cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
257 points
Dec 15, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
shakey wrote:
Anyone been up to willard canyon recently (since posted pics)?


Around 15 of us did it on the 11th. Suffice to say its "in".

Power of photo's on the 'net of ice conditions. Too funny.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 18, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this p...
I moved to Utah in 2005 and have driven up to Willard from Salt Lake at least 5 times before I finally got it a week or so ago and posted up. Everyone is welcome for the beta photos. Soooo.....I climbed down in Provo Canyon yesterday night. There were little headlamps dancing around in the darkness everywhere. People are getting out. SNAP SOME PHOTOS AND POST UP! Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Joined May 29, 2002
353 points
Dec 18, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
We climbed the GWI yesterday, and it was awesome. First pitch was a little soft and soppy, but the rest of good. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
599 points
Dec 18, 2011
Greg G, can you please tell me where you parked and how you approached the GWI. Thanks in advance. PAS
Joined Jul 19, 2009
25 points
Dec 19, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
Parked just down from the power garage cross the creek. walk up the temple quarry trail for 50yds and take the well worn path south into the wood. you really can't miss it. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
599 points
Dec 19, 2011
First pitch of Hanging Slab gully 12/17/2011
First pitch of Hanging Slab gully 12/17/2011


i can't post more pics for some reason but went up to Hanging Slab gully on sat. 12/17 and it is thick with about 700 feet of ice. Willard canyon is also thick and in all the way to the top
shakey
Joined Mar 27, 2008
11 points
Dec 19, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
how thick is thick on the hanging slab gulley? full 20cm screws or some mid ranger screws? Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
599 points
Dec 19, 2011
Tangled up in blue
Made it out to Marys Lake (Joes Valley) on Sunday (12/18)...Conditions were great...Wet, plastic ice...climbed Dirty Blonde, and Alzcleimbers. Thunderbolt and Lightfoot had ice, but not all the way down, would make a good mixed route. Drive in was fine...4x4 recommended. Approach in was a pain the ass. We parked next to Marys Lake and booted in...took about an hour an half. Lots of dead fall and rocks. First time out there, good first trip of the season.


Approach to Marys Lake
Approach to Marys Lake


View of Dirty Blonde
View of Dirty Blonde
Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Joined Dec 15, 2011
35 points


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