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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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By Mark Regier
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 8, 2011
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I'll be posting this elsewhere, but just wanted to mention that I found a valuable bit of climbing equipment at the base of the Great White Icicle yesterday evening. Appeared to have been there a while. Call me to identify and describe. 801.910.5957


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By tharlow
Dec 8, 2011

want to head out to joes valley for some ice this weekend, has anyone been up there recently and would be willing to share some recent conditions?

Thad


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 8, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Thad,
Mary's lake has more ice then I have seen in years and is still accessible with a 4 wheel drive. I climbed over at slide lake 2 weeks ago and was able to drive further then I have in the past. Several 1000 ft climbs in over there 3-4s V-threads in a couple of them all the way down. A week ago highway to heaven and CCC were in and growing in the main area. We drove up to the Donnercicle and it was forming nicely but not in yet. I have not been over to Huntington yet but my guess there is stuff in over there. We have not had any snow for awhile down there so access is good.


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By tharlow
Dec 8, 2011

Sunny-D
thanks for the great info man, maybe see you out there this sunday.
Thad


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By Scott Adamson
Dec 9, 2011

found a pair o gloves in the stairway gully today. I handed them off to Mountain Works (climbing shop in provo). If you can describe em they are yours.

does anyone know any beta on the mixed or "bolts" on the route to the left of the 2nd pitch stairway-150ft? I put up a variation on wed that goes up n right of the little roof @ the bottom. I couldnt find any anchors up top. Guess they could be covered by ice. dunno. If someone hasnt put in rock anchors, i may put some in for convenience so you can lower off and clean.

went up soft and juicy on wed mornin. was pretty....yup...soft n juicy! The top of the last pillar was back melted and not attached and now its been warmer @ nite. Hasnt fallen but you may want to wait for cooler nite temps to make the march up.


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By Dave Polan
Dec 9, 2011

Can anyone recommend a good online/print guide to ice around the Salt Lake area? Coming out next week to "ski" but given condition will be happy to climb instead!
Thanks
Dave


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Dec 10, 2011

David Black, Ice Climbing Utah. From Falcon.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 10, 2011
Hummm...

Dave Polan wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good online/print guide to ice around the Salt Lake area? Coming out next week to "ski" but given condition will be happy to climb instead! Thanks Dave


There is also a smattering of routes on this site, like under, "All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Provo Canyon > Provo Canyon Ice"

Cause, I left my guide book at the cabin, with my laptop, and the charger to my barber shaver, duh!


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By Rob Man
From SLC UT
Dec 11, 2011
mountain sunset

santaquin conditions ?

Anybody been yet?????????


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 11, 2011
Hummm...

What are the approach conditions to get into Mary's Lake in January?..


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 11, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Mary's Lake depending on how you approach will either be 5-10 mile ski on the road (based on how far you can drive) or 3 miles up a steep valley with lots of down timber.
Dallen


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By Patrick Fink
Dec 11, 2011

Conditions for Little Cottonwood Canyon and some climbs in Provo Canyon:
AS of 12/10/11:

patrickfink.blogspot.com/2011/12/lcc-provo-canyon-ice-condit>>>


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 11, 2011
Hummm...

Sunny-D wrote:
Mary's Lake...approach will either be 5-10 mile ski on the road (based on how far you can drive)... Dallen


I'd rather drive...


Snow toy...
Snow toy...



On top 3' of snow in the back yard...
On top 3' of snow in the back yard...


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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Dec 11, 2011

white spider in rock canyon looked in, but beyond me how it could ever be harder than Wi2. my wife saw it and laughed at it, although she has been sandbagged to the point of being jaded


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By Steve Bott
Dec 11, 2011

I lost a BD Viper ice axe at the GWI today, either in the descent gully or at the base of the route. I'm forever in your debt if you find and return it. 801-205-1047


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By shakey
Dec 15, 2011

Anyone been up to willard canyon recently (since posted pics)?


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Dec 15, 2011

We were up there on Sunday the climb is in great shape, fat conditions from what the Ogden locals were saying. No rock gear needed.


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 15, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

shakey wrote:
Anyone been up to willard canyon recently (since posted pics)?


Around 15 of us did it on the 11th. Suffice to say its "in".

Power of photo's on the 'net of ice conditions. Too funny.


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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Dec 18, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )

I moved to Utah in 2005 and have driven up to Willard from Salt Lake at least 5 times before I finally got it a week or so ago and posted up. Everyone is welcome for the beta photos. Soooo.....I climbed down in Provo Canyon yesterday night. There were little headlamps dancing around in the darkness everywhere. People are getting out. SNAP SOME PHOTOS AND POST UP!


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Dec 18, 2011
The route in it's entirety.

We climbed the GWI yesterday, and it was awesome. First pitch was a little soft and soppy, but the rest of good.


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By PAS
Dec 18, 2011

Greg G, can you please tell me where you parked and how you approached the GWI. Thanks in advance.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Dec 19, 2011
The route in it's entirety.

Parked just down from the power garage cross the creek. walk up the temple quarry trail for 50yds and take the well worn path south into the wood. you really can't miss it.


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By shakey
Dec 19, 2011

First pitch of Hanging Slab gully 12/17/2011
First pitch of Hanging Slab gully 12/17/2011


i can't post more pics for some reason but went up to Hanging Slab gully on sat. 12/17 and it is thick with about 700 feet of ice. Willard canyon is also thick and in all the way to the top


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Dec 19, 2011
The route in it's entirety.

how thick is thick on the hanging slab gulley? full 20cm screws or some mid ranger screws?


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By Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Dec 19, 2011
Tangled up in blue

Made it out to Marys Lake (Joes Valley) on Sunday (12/18)...Conditions were great...Wet, plastic ice...climbed Dirty Blonde, and Alzcleimbers. Thunderbolt and Lightfoot had ice, but not all the way down, would make a good mixed route. Drive in was fine...4x4 recommended. Approach in was a pain the ass. We parked next to Marys Lake and booted in...took about an hour an half. Lots of dead fall and rocks. First time out there, good first trip of the season.


Approach to Marys Lake
Approach to Marys Lake


View of Dirty Blonde
View of Dirty Blonde


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