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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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By bsmoot
Dec 4, 2011
Me in the 70's
Those photos look like Miller's Thriller. Cool early season photos.

FLAG
By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Dec 4, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Mark Regier wrote:
Had the Fang all to myself today. I don't have any friends, so I was soloing. Stopped when it got steep and rapped from anchors on LHS(I think this is the top of p.2). Lots of water flowing, but climbable.



Sweeeeeeet. Did you get a look at miller's thriller?

FLAG
By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 4, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Mark Regier wrote:
Had the Fang all to myself today. I don't have any friends, so I was soloing. Stopped when it got steep and rapped from anchors on LHS(I think this is the top of p.2). Lots of water flowing, but climbable.



These pictures are of Millers. Have any of the Fang the next one to the east up canyon.

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Dec 4, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Fang tube was pukin' hard and no where near formed. The approach pitches looked similar to the stuff around Stairway.

Here's the amphitheater from today:

Bridleveil amphitheater 12/4/11
Bridleveil amphitheater 12/4/11


Pretty wet and soft and a bit thin in spots, but, some doable stuff. Don't fall! Not sure a screw would slow you down much...

FLAG
By dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Dec 4, 2011
Climbing
Climbed White Nightmare today, all but the far right hand side is too chandeliered to climb without setting its growth back significantly, and it is quite wet still. A few more days of solid building and it will be looking right.

Bridalveil Right was lead and top roped for a while as well. It looked to be in much better conditions, in fact I would dare say it is in.

FLAG
By DuWayne Effland
From pewaukee, wisconsin
Dec 5, 2011
ice shard to the face
Photo Beta Love of Mary's Lake Dec 4 2011. Get it while it's still drivable. Made it back there in a subaru Impreza with Blizzak snow tires. Next sizable snowstorm and it will be ski or snowmobile only.

Mary's Lake climbs
Mary's Lake climbs


close up
close up


first lead of the season
first lead of the season

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By atrau
Dec 5, 2011
Where is Marys Lake?

Rob

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By Mark Regier
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 5, 2011
.
Sunny-D wrote:
These pictures are of Millers. Have any of the Fang the next one to the east up canyon.

Sunny D- thanks for the correction. I was going from memory of the guidebook. Next time I'll check again before I post.
Thanks

FLAG
 
By Harry Richardson
Dec 5, 2011
Dirtcicle is in and nice. Climbed Saturday 12/3/11.

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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Dec 5, 2011
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Mark Regier wrote:
Sunny D- thanks for the correction. I was going from memory of the guidebook. Next time I'll check again before I post. Thanks



Sorry, I have been climbing in Provo Canyon for 20+ years and love both of those climbs, so I know them well. If you want to get out sometime give me a shout.
Dallen

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By Scott Adamson
Dec 5, 2011
Went up Roberts Horn east face ice the morning of 12/3/11 didnt top out proper, just clankerd up the first 500ft of ice. The lower ice is formed better then i have seen in years but still always heads up. In fact, a well placed screw saved a life the night before on the first pitch, so i would guess the screws are good!

On 12/4/11 we scratched to the top of the 5th pitch on the stairway via Contrivance. Classic early season fun. Both rap/belay anchors atop the 5th are covered over with spray ice from those high winds so save some screws or start chipn away for the belay. I didn't have any luck. You can still get off by pulling your belay and traversing over to the far right fixed anchors.




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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Dec 5, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )
GWI 12.5.11

p.1
p.1


p.2
p.2


p.4
p.4


Fun!

FLAG
By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Dec 5, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )
Anyone live up north and have any idea whether Willard Canyon Falls is in?

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By Shiho
Dec 5, 2011
The first pitch of GWI looks sketchy!! Glad that you thought it was fun :)

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By markmaguire
Dec 5, 2011
Shiho will you climb with me when the ice is in?























/

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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 6, 2011
Hummm...
Well, Iíve searched ďThe WebĒ and this seems to be the place for Utah ice reports and comradery. Not bad, but would be nice to see a site like neclimbs.com/ used for New Hampshire ice climbing. A bit more 'around the area' coverage. But then that kind of site does take a lot of maintenance.
Anyway, Iím new to the forum, so let me introduce myself a bit. I live northern Virginia and work in DC. Iím old, 57, and started climbing late in life, rock then ice, about 15 years ago. I own a cabin out on Strawberry reservoir (2.5 yrs now), because I realized I was spending much time in the SLC area, skiing and climbing rock, north to SoR mainly. Thought I was retiring there last year when I finished construction. That didnít happen. Iím blaming that on the ďOther HalfĒ. I visit now 2-3 times a year.
So, I did manage to play around at the bottom of Stairway to Heaven last year a couple days last season. The hike up taxed my ground zero lungs, but it was great. I would like to do some of the other pitches there, and some of the climbs around the corner, and else where. Iím back in the area between 6 and 14 January. Hopefully, the ice is in and conditions are good. Iím heading to New Hampshire to a friendís place first to do some of that sweet NE ice, so hopefully Iíll remember how to climb and get my lead head back, before arriving in Utah. If anyone has some time during my trip dates, and would like to hook up and lead me around, let me know. I may not be climbing hard with my bum rotator cuff (bouldering) injury, but should be able to get up at least 3s & 4sÖ


Home away from home!
Home away from home!

FLAG
 
By Shiho
Dec 6, 2011
markmaguire wrote:
Shiho will you climb with me when the ice is in? /

Of course, I'll climb with you. Why are you talking to me on mp.com when you can just give me a call. Anyhow, I went out to Provo this past Sunday and it was fine like everyone else was saying. I just thought that the 1st pitch of GWI seems little spicy for my taste. Ya, let's get out.

FLAG
By Shiho
Dec 6, 2011
RonB wrote:
Not bad, but would be nice to see a site like neclimbs.com/ used for New Hampshire ice climbing.


ya, you guys have neice.com as well. We have utahclimbers.com if you want to join the cult. Be careful, though. People can be vicious there.

FLAG
By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Dec 6, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )
loving this cold snap
loving this cold snap


mile 20
mile 20


think cold
think cold


fun
fun

FLAG
By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 6, 2011
Hummm...
Shiho wrote:
Be careful, though. People can be vicious there.


Thanks, sounds like my kinda people. I've been barked at by some big egos over the years. I've got thick skin...and a nasty bite...

FLAG
By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Dec 6, 2011
Hummm...
Matt Wolski wrote:


Hi Matt. Are these shots from up 150 in the Uintas? I was up that way climbing this last summer and saw a lot of drips. Looks like the area...

FLAG
By DuWayne Effland
From pewaukee, wisconsin
Dec 7, 2011
ice shard to the face
Photo Beta from Stewart falls provo canyon Dec 7 2011
Stewart falls WI5 provo canyon
Stewart falls WI5 provo canyon


Dan on the sharp end Stewart falls
Dan on the sharp end Stewart falls

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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Dec 7, 2011
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )
Willard Canyon Falls
Willard Canyon Falls


skiing sucks?  nothing more dangerous than boredom.  Mountain Hardware: send free stuff to me.
skiing sucks? nothing more dangerous than boredom. Mountain Hardware: send free stuff to me.


went from plastic to brittle
went from plastic to brittle


Willard Canyon Falls
Willard Canyon Falls


crux bulge.  frozen camera lense.
crux bulge. frozen camera lense.


It's in.

FLAG
By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Dec 7, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Right on! I'm glad everyone is sharing beta and shots.

Climbed Miller's Thriller this AM after seeing Mark's photos. Here are some more:

Kirk on the way out with the first pitch visible.
Kirk on the way out with the first pitch visible.


First pitch after the small hump people often walk around.
First pitch after the small hump people often walk around.


Kirk on rappel
Kirk on rappel


The crux pitch was a little thin, but actually in pretty easy climbing shape. Lots of ledges.

We rapped off bolts to the climbers right atop the first pitch. A second rope would have got us to the ground easily, but we made do with a v-thread when it didn't reach.

Here is the Fang. It appears to be forming quickly.
The Fang
The Fang


Finger of Fate was also looking good. Probably a little thin, but forming rapidly.

FLAG
 
By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Dec 8, 2011
heads up for this guy! stole a bunch of ice gear

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