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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread
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Nov 16, 2011
Has anyone been up to the apron or seen it from the highway yesterday or this morning? Mike Washburn
From Orem, Utah
Joined Sep 2, 2009
30 points
Nov 16, 2011
my better side
Mike Washburn wrote:
Has anyone been up to the apron or seen it from the highway yesterday or this morning?


I drive past it every morning and it looked mostly melted out this today. From the highway it looked like there was some ice but it was really thin and mostly wet.
jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Joined Jun 28, 2006
844 points
Nov 16, 2011
lame, maybe after this weekends event... Mike Washburn
From Orem, Utah
Joined Sep 2, 2009
30 points
Nov 16, 2011
Sunrise on the summit of Cotopaxi, Ecuador.
Michael Davidson wrote:
Thanks for the photos, Matt. Were your photos taken at the prominent line of ice that you can see in the middle of your first photo of the face?


Yep.
Matt Jesperson
Joined Nov 13, 2007
141 points
Nov 17, 2011
What other routes, when they are in, can be top-roped, or is just Stairway?

And hopefully this weekends event brings more stuff in :-)
Kyle Gochenour
Joined Nov 9, 2011
0 points
Nov 19, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Any ice on the Apron which was once there, is now gone. Better to just go skiing. Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 20, 2011
Bad Bannana's
With that negative attitude Mike the ice will feel unwelcome and never come back!! Eli Harry
Joined Oct 14, 2011
79 points
Nov 20, 2011
anyone wanna go slop up to roberts horn this tuesday? weather looks good, skiing looks shit

at the very least: take the tools for a pretty walk - get some exercise, at the very best: glory.
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Nov 21, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
layton wrote:
anyone wanna go slop up to roberts horn this tuesday?


I'd be careful with this warm weather. Rain today and a pretty good warm up tomorrow. Not so good for ice conditions.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Nov 21, 2011
Brian in SLC wrote:
I'd be careful with this warm weather. Rain today and a pretty good warm up tomorrow. Not so good for ice conditions.


Probably not...but ice forms slower than it melts, and that location is a cold air sink. Better than sitting around with my thumb up my butt.
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Nov 21, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
layton wrote:
Better than sitting around with my thumb up my butt.


I dunno. Better your thumb than your head...

Ha ha.

Take care. I can think of some pretty serious ice accidents that occurred during times of rapid temperature change.

If you go for a look, let us know!

Thanks.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Nov 21, 2011
Brian in SLC wrote:
I dunno. Better your thumb than your head... Ha ha. Take care. I can think of some pretty serious ice accidents that occurred during times of rapid temperature change. If you go for a look, let us know! Thanks.


Will do, but I'm not going alone. Anyone got tomorrow off, wanna take the tools for a stroll?
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Nov 22, 2011
layton wrote:
Will do, but I'm not going alone. Anyone got tomorrow off, wanna take the tools for a stroll?



too warm!

I'm getting flashbacks of living in seattle trying to get those perfect conditions. Nov usually provides a hard freeze pre-dump. Not this year, twas October.

too bad, lots of possibilities early - smears up the LCC, Roberts, that thing in Odgen.

Next perfect condition OCD objective probably will have to wait like storm mtn, habeus corpus, etc.
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Nov 25, 2011
Climbing
Dirtcicle is back in, top roped it today for a few hours. Temps never got hot enough to bake it out, it was in lead-able conditions for the strong willed. dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Joined Dec 2, 2010
17 points
Nov 29, 2011
Climbing
Looking for a climbing partner for the weekend, any or all days, friday - sunday. Im game for anything from toproping to leading some multipitch if we can find something thats in halfway decent.

Dante
dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Joined Dec 2, 2010
17 points
Nov 29, 2011
Climbing
Anybody been through Provo Canyon lately? Anyone know whats in?, or whats building quickly? Anyone seen some good ice somewhere else lately? Thanks for your report on the lake mary area, its starting to look pretty sweet! I'll report back after my trips, but it would be awesome to have a little beta.

And to spread the Beta love
Climbing the Dirtcicle last Sat
Climbing the Dirtcicle last Sat
dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Joined Dec 2, 2010
17 points
Nov 30, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Climbed on the apron this morning. Nothing I would want to put a screw in, but definitely climbable. White Nightmare and the streak to its left looked surprisingly good, but again, I wouldn't lead it right now.

With the low temps we are going to have for the next week I think the stuff with flowing water is going to freeze quickly. . . which is good and bad.
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Nov 30, 2011
my dog
Just want to watch this thread. in the hopes of ice climbing this year. So if anyone wants to take a noob out for a day of climbing let me know Eric Bonin
Joined Sep 23, 2007
21 points
Dec 2, 2011
my better side
Ice in Provo Canyon is reforming after the cold temps last night. Looks like it'll be a busy day on the apron tomorrow. jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Joined Jun 28, 2006
844 points
Dec 2, 2011
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT
Went to Joes yesterday, conditions seemed a little worse than this past weekend:

Turned around due to snow on the way to Mary's Lake, but is probably passable for 4WD + snow tires. About 6-8 inches on the road, but the climbs were looking pretty good from afar.

Led p1 CCC, a bit thin but fun. p2 is nonexistent

Hiked up the Highway to Heaven (difficult this early in the season as there's not enough ice to go right up the drainage) and checked out Deadbolt. Was looking stout, and a bit wet for leading, so we went up the Masterlock drainage to set up a TR and were pleasantly surprised by it.
Alec
Joined Sep 9, 2007
563 points
Dec 2, 2011
View from up above the hand crack
Here is the apron on Nov 29th. Sorry for the late post. There were 2 lines that were climbable on top rope. Its gotten colder the last 2 days so I assume that there has been some good formation since then :-) Lets hope it continues to cool off!
Nov 29th 2011 the apron on stairway
Nov 29th 2011 the apron on stairway



The apron on stairway Nov 29th 2011
The apron on stairway Nov 29th 2011

the apron on stairway Nov 29th
the apron on stairway Nov 29th
Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jul 1, 2011
144 points
Dec 3, 2011
Me in the 70's
Climbed to the top of the bulge on the GWI today. No ice getting to that belay. Had to climb above 10' and then back down to the belay. You could go all the way if you exit out right. Pretty thin still. bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,883 points
Dec 3, 2011
mountain sunset
Went and climbed on the Apron today 12/3/11 it is a little better than the previous posted pictures, fun but still a wee thin for good screws.

Bridalveil rt. and white nightmare are starting to look promising :}
Rob Man
From SLC UT
Joined Oct 24, 2005
44 points
Dec 4, 2011
Belaying on the Grand Teton
Apron from the highway today. Photo cred to Kirk.
Apron from the highway today. Photo cred to Kirk.


12/4/2011
Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 8, 2010
149 points
Dec 4, 2011
.
Had the Fang all to myself today. I don't have any friends, so I was soloing. Stopped when it got steep and rapped from anchors on LHS(I think this is the top of p.2). Lots of water flowing, but climbable.
Miller's thriller lower pitches 12/4/11
Miller's thriller lower pitches
12/4/11


Miller's thriller upper pitches 12/4/11
Miller's thriller upper pitches 12/4/11
Mark Regier
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 28, 2006
33 points


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