By dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Nov 15, 2011
| Now when you say the dirtsicle is in... how in is it? Photos? | 
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By Nathaniel Holt
Nov 15, 2011
| What is the horn looking like this week? Those were some sweet pics from Matt Jasperson. Id be willing to go try it out if someone wants to go with me (Michael Davidson). But for real safe enough to climb up back side of timp? any route?
Cheers to the sub-zero temps we love so much :) |
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By Mike Washburn
From Orem, Utah
Nov 16, 2011
| Has anyone been up to the apron or seen it from the highway yesterday or this morning? |
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By jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Nov 16, 2011
| Mike Washburn wrote: Has anyone been up to the apron or seen it from the highway yesterday or this morning?
I drive past it every morning and it looked mostly melted out this today. From the highway it looked like there was some ice but it was really thin and mostly wet. |
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By Mike Washburn
From Orem, Utah
Nov 16, 2011
| lame, maybe after this weekends event... |
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By Matt Jesperson
Nov 16, 2011
| Michael Davidson wrote: Thanks for the photos, Matt. Were your photos taken at the prominent line of ice that you can see in the middle of your first photo of the face?
Yep. |
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By Kyle Gochenour
Nov 17, 2011
| What other routes, when they are in, can be top-roped, or is just Stairway?
And hopefully this weekends event brings more stuff in :-) |
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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 19, 2011
| Any ice on the Apron which was once there, is now gone. Better to just go skiing. |
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By Eli Harry
Nov 20, 2011
| With that negative attitude Mike the ice will feel unwelcome and never come back!! |
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By notmyname
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 20, 2011
| anyone wanna go slop up to roberts horn this tuesday? weather looks good, skiing looks shit
at the very least: take the tools for a pretty walk - get some exercise, at the very best: glory. |
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By Clay Borne
Nov 21, 2011
| dante kleinman wrote: Now when you say the dirtsicle is in... how in is it? Photos?
| It is in great shape. Better than average for this time of year.
Submitted By: Clay Borne on Nov 21, 2011
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Hope this helps |
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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2011
| layton wrote: anyone wanna go slop up to roberts horn this tuesday?
I'd be careful with this warm weather. Rain today and a pretty good warm up tomorrow. Not so good for ice conditions. |
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By notmyname
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2011
| Brian in SLC wrote: I'd be careful with this warm weather. Rain today and a pretty good warm up tomorrow. Not so good for ice conditions.
Probably not...but ice forms slower than it melts, and that location is a cold air sink. Better than sitting around with my thumb up my butt. |
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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2011
| layton wrote: Better than sitting around with my thumb up my butt.
I dunno. Better your thumb than your head...
Ha ha.
Take care. I can think of some pretty serious ice accidents that occurred during times of rapid temperature change.
If you go for a look, let us know!
Thanks. |
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By notmyname
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2011
| Brian in SLC wrote: I dunno. Better your thumb than your head... Ha ha. Take care. I can think of some pretty serious ice accidents that occurred during times of rapid temperature change. If you go for a look, let us know! Thanks.
Will do, but I'm not going alone. Anyone got tomorrow off, wanna take the tools for a stroll? |
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By notmyname
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 22, 2011
| layton wrote: Will do, but I'm not going alone. Anyone got tomorrow off, wanna take the tools for a stroll?
too warm!
I'm getting flashbacks of living in seattle trying to get those perfect conditions. Nov usually provides a hard freeze pre-dump. Not this year, twas October.
too bad, lots of possibilities early - smears up the LCC, Roberts, that thing in Odgen.
Next perfect condition OCD objective probably will have to wait like storm mtn, habeus corpus, etc. |
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By dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Nov 25, 2011
| Dirtcicle is back in, top roped it today for a few hours. Temps never got hot enough to bake it out, it was in lead-able conditions for the strong willed. |
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By Clay Borne
Nov 27, 2011
| While it seems that the weather pattern we are currently in is more to the liking of "Pad People" and the sunny side "Trad People", there is actually some ice that is in good condition in Utah.
Mary's Lake Ice climbing (above Joes Valley) has some climbs that are in. Three routes on the right side of the area have formed nicely, and the climb Thunderbolt and Lightfoot is also forming well.
| Mary's Lake Ice: 11-26-11
Submitted By: Clay Borne on Nov 27, 2011
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| Alzcleimbers ( I believe) WI5
Submitted By: Clay Borne on Dec 13, 2011
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The road to Mary's Lake is mostly free of snow, and passable in a Subaru. Snowpack in the area is about 6" deep, so no deep snow hiking. The high temp at the base of the climbs was 23 degrees.
The other ice climbs in the Joes Valley area in the following conditions:
Deadbolt: Small pillar has formed but does not appear climbable.
Donorcicle: Too warm and sunny to form yet.
CCC Falls: The lower pitch is forming nicely. Still thin in places.
| CCC Falls, Pitch 1, 11-26-11
Submitted By: Clay Borne on Nov 27, 2011
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By dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Nov 29, 2011
| Looking for a climbing partner for the weekend, any or all days, friday - sunday. Im game for anything from toproping to leading some multipitch if we can find something thats in halfway decent.
Dante |
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By dante kleinman
From Denali National Park, AK
Nov 29, 2011
| Anybody been through Provo Canyon lately? Anyone know whats in?, or whats building quickly? Anyone seen some good ice somewhere else lately? Thanks for your report on the lake mary area, its starting to look pretty sweet! I'll report back after my trips, but it would be awesome to have a little beta.
And to spread the Beta love
| Climbing the Dirtcicle last Sat
Submitted By: dante kleinman on Nov 30, 2011
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By Michael Davidson
From San Diego, CA
Nov 30, 2011
| Climbed on the apron this morning. Nothing I would want to put a screw in, but definitely climbable. White Nightmare and the streak to its left looked surprisingly good, but again, I wouldn't lead it right now.
With the low temps we are going to have for the next week I think the stuff with flowing water is going to freeze quickly. . . which is good and bad. |
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By Eric Bonin
Nov 30, 2011
| Just want to watch this thread. in the hopes of ice climbing this year. So if anyone wants to take a noob out for a day of climbing let me know |
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By jtwalter
From Orem, UT
Dec 2, 2011
| Ice in Provo Canyon is reforming after the cold temps last night. Looks like it'll be a busy day on the apron tomorrow. |
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By Alec
Dec 2, 2011
| Went to Joes yesterday, conditions seemed a little worse than this past weekend:
Turned around due to snow on the way to Mary's Lake, but is probably passable for 4WD + snow tires. About 6-8 inches on the road, but the climbs were looking pretty good from afar.
Led p1 CCC, a bit thin but fun. p2 is nonexistent
Hiked up the Highway to Heaven (difficult this early in the season as there's not enough ice to go right up the drainage) and checked out Deadbolt. Was looking stout, and a bit wet for leading, so we went up the Masterlock drainage to set up a TR and were pleasantly surprised by it. |
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By Nathaniel Holt
Dec 2, 2011
| Here is the apron on Nov 29th. Sorry for the late post. There were 2 lines that were climbable on top rope. Its gotten colder the last 2 days so I assume that there has been some good formation since then :-) Lets hope it continues to cool off!
| Nov 29th 2011 the apron on stairway
Submitted By: Nathaniel Holt on Dec 2, 2011
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| The apron on stairway Nov 29th 2011
Submitted By: Nathaniel Holt on Dec 2, 2011
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| the apron on stairway Nov 29th
Submitted By: Nathaniel Holt on Dec 2, 2011
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