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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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Jan 11, 2010
...And a few Push-ups just for fun.
Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel?

Are they in, hows the hike?
Jason Gilbert
From Lakewood
Joined Nov 22, 2002
326 points
Jan 11, 2010
Jason Gilbert wrote:
Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel? Are they in, hows the hike?


Yeah we were up there about a month ago and the ice was pretty good. A little wet in the center. The approach is like 15 minutes. Can't beat that.
J. Surette
From Denver, CO
Joined Sep 18, 2009
32 points
Jan 11, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
BoCan lower falls are beat to death. I think you could leave the tools at home and still lead. Someone's funny OSHA line about the ladder is appropriate here.

Routes looked mighty thin too compared to historical pictures too.
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jan 14, 2010
Bunny pancake
I am going to officer's gulch this week-end.. Any one have an update on ice and avy conditions. Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Joined Aug 27, 2003
122 points
Jan 17, 2010
Martha this past Saturday was leaner than spring conditions. Little to no ice in the first two pitches, a body length on the third, none on the fourth and the finish had enough to take two screws. The snow was fun and consolidated in some areas, and a sugar, sloughing, mess in others. Still a fun outing.




To the party passed on the trail up, I owe you a six pack. Did not see you guys come up, probably for fear of being in the cross hairs. Smart move, you did not miss anything. Contact me through here for that six pack.
Third pitch.
Third pitch.


No ice at the start.
No ice at the start.


Fourth pitch.
Fourth pitch.
jbarnum
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2007
97 points
Jan 17, 2010
Good climbing with you Jim.

I personally was pleasently surprised by the amount of ice we found in Martha - I wasn't expecting any. But then again I like climbing steep snow. This was my first time on the route and I thought it was lots of fun. We experianced everything from good ice, to snice, unconsolidated snow, good styrofoam, and of course lots of fourth class moves on rotten rock.




Jim enjoying good styrofoam neve on the second pitch.



Jim following the fourth pitch, which was pretty thin but loads of fun.



The "crux" pitch which offered up some decent pick placements and fun stemming moves on the rock.



Just to say we did...



Good ice-bouldering was found on the decent down the camel Couloir.


Things actually looked pretty decent up there. The second pitch on Alexander's looked good, thin above that though. Columbine and Peacock were definately in, and the Loft ice is looking pretty damn good and the bowl above it a little less threatening.

Cheers.
Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Jan 17, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
How was the snow in the wide part exiting Martha at the top of the couloir? Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jan 17, 2010
Chris,

The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.
Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Jan 17, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!
Kevin Landolt wrote:
Chris, The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.


Thanks Kevin!
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jan 18, 2010
Bunny pancake
Officer's Gulch 1/17/10.
Officer's Gulch 1/17/10.


conditions were good this week-end.
Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Joined Aug 27, 2003
122 points
Jan 18, 2010
Bunny pancake
More Officer's Gulch.
More Officer's Gulch.
Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Joined Aug 27, 2003
122 points
Jan 18, 2010
3rd Flatiron
Here's a shot of Stoneman in the sun and West Gull...
Here's a shot of Stoneman in the sun and West Gully with a party starting up, January 10, 2010.


Ophir Ice Hose, January 17, 2010.
Ophir Ice Hose, January 17, 2010.
Ken Trout
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 21, 2001
5,776 points
Administrator
Jan 19, 2010
Officer's Gulch - less than typical snow levels. 1" fell today.

The Shroud - in & blue.

Tony's Nightmare - in & blue.

Unnamed Gully - in & blue. Bit of upper ice.
Gordon gettin' off the couch.
Gordon gettin' off the couch.


Round The Corner - in, hollow in spots, 4+.
Gordo Bro gettin' off the couch.
Gordo Bro gettin' off the couch.


Fish Out of Water - lean, ice high off the ground.
Wide, but high.
Wide, but high.


Three Tiers - in & blue.
3 Tiers.
3 Tiers.


The Shaft - snow filled.
Does it have ice?
Does it have ice?
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,274 points
Jan 20, 2010
Has anyone been up to, or taken a close look at N. Face of Notchtop recently. The avalanche danger has moderated for the time being, and hopefully there has been a little freeze/thaw on the crux pitch.

Any info. would be appreciated.
Brad White
Joined Sep 14, 2006
28 points
Jan 20, 2010
Do a little dance...
Timberline Falls in Loch Vale is in climbable shape. The main flow is 100' of WI3 and the right side is two bulges of about the same rating. Both can be TRed with a 70, maybe a 60 if you're more clever with anchors than we were. Nice ice, nice setting, modest approach. Charles Danforth
From L'ville, CO
Joined Aug 20, 2003
252 points
Jan 21, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Brad White wrote:
Has anyone been up to, or taken a close look at N. Face of Notchtop recently. The avalanche danger has moderated for the time being, and hopefully there has been a little freeze/thaw on the crux pitch. Any info. would be appreciated.


Lots of snow was covering the ice a week ago. You could only see a sliver of ice in the middle. I'd like to see a photo of what it looks like now as well.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,496 points
Jan 21, 2010
Kelly Cordes was skiing up in that drainage today. You could ask him.

Dougald
coloradomountainjournal.com
Dougald MacDonald
Joined Apr 13, 2002
845 points
Jan 22, 2010
Thanks Stich and Dougald! Brad White
Joined Sep 14, 2006
28 points
Jan 24, 2010
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Time to become popular with the West Slope crowd (sorry guys, but I give the the goods from the East Slope too)...

Rifle is going off (uh, no pun intended). Before going though, it's best to be solid on WI5 and ready for thin/scary/semi-detached top-outs. Ain't no TR crag.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Jan 24, 2010
Summit of Sunlight
It's OK Kevin to talk about the west slope ice as long as its in the guide books.
All the other stuff SSSHHH!!!!!!
Here's a couple pics from Rifle yesterday.
Kevin and me on Soul on Ice.
Kevin and me on Soul on Ice.


Kevin and me on Stone Free, Ice Palace on right.
Kevin and me on Stone Free, Ice Palace on right.
Stephen Berwanger
From Montrose, CO
Joined Jun 3, 2007
292 points
Jan 25, 2010
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Just returned from a weekend at Rifle, which is in excellent shape. Stone Free is in easy 5 shape with a moderate top out. Ice Palace was led by my partner Dan Battin, 5++ with a pretty exciting top out, doubt it will last much longer....
Ice Palace, Anjie toproping.
Ice Palace, Anjie toproping.


Ice Palace.
Ice Palace.
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
360 points
Jan 27, 2010
Five Finger Discount
The Shroud 1-27-10.
The Shroud 1-27-10.



Was up on The Shroud today so I thought I would share.
Dale D
From Parker, CO
Joined Sep 11, 2007
173 points
Administrator
Jan 27, 2010
~6" of new snow in Officer's Gulch. Micro sloughs on the west side.

Pumphouse - a bit slushy, running water of the left.

From the base.
From the base.


Designator amphitheater:

From the road.
From the road.


Spiral Stairs:

From the road.
From the road.


Firehouse/Timber Falls:

From the road.
From the road.


Booth Creek:

From near Pumphouse.
From near Pumphouse.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,274 points
Feb 1, 2010
A little alpine update for the N. Face of Longs, Jan 30th. Cables Route.

The snow-ramp approach was good styrofoam and felt safe, but pockets of windslab on the M2 corner pitch turned me around.









Quite a bit of ice forming back in the corner (under the snow).

Full TR on my blog
Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Feb 6, 2010
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Here a shoddy report for Bridalveil Falls which we climbed yesterday. Climb is in excellent condition, although rather hooked out. No running water to speak of. Pitch 1 is pretty reasonable. Pitch 2 is the business, steep with good hooks and decent pro. Very classic and not as hard as it looks. Enjoy!
Dan on 1st pitch.
Dan on 1st pitch.


Bridal Veil.
Bridal Veil.

1st pitch.
1st pitch.
erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Joined Apr 3, 2008
360 points


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