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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions



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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 10, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

We thought about giving NE face of Notchtop a run, but there appeared to be a ton of unconsolidated snow obscuring most of the ice pitches. I thought I could make out a fracture line from a recent avalanche, but it was hard to tell. In any case, we changed our plans and just hiked up Flattop for grins.

CAIC reported several avalanches in the Northern Mountains this week.


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By erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Jan 10, 2010
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good

Climbed Ingram falls near To-hell-u-ride yesterday. 2 hr approach with some avy hazard to top of climb. We rappeled in and climbed out in 2 pitches. 1st pitch was very steep and brittle with poor pro. 2nd pitch was excellent quality. Classic route!

Ingram Falls.
Ingram Falls.
Submitted By: erik wellborn on Jan 10, 2010


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By Buff Johnson
Jan 10, 2010
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth.  <br /> <br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve.  <br /> <br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger. <br />

Nice, E

We had a blast around Ouray & Eureka, as well.

Here's to the breezes that blows through the trees'es
& freezes the ice way past our knees'es


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By Jason Gilbert
From Lakewood
Jan 11, 2010
...And a few Push-ups just for fun.

Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel?

Are they in, hows the hike?


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By J. Surette
From Denver, CO
Jan 11, 2010

Jason Gilbert wrote:
Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel? Are they in, hows the hike?


Yeah we were up there about a month ago and the ice was pretty good. A little wet in the center. The approach is like 15 minutes. Can't beat that.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 11, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!

BoCan lower falls are beat to death. I think you could leave the tools at home and still lead. Someone's funny OSHA line about the ladder is appropriate here.

Routes looked mighty thin too compared to historical pictures too.


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By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Jan 14, 2010
Bunny pancake

I am going to officer's gulch this week-end.. Any one have an update on ice and avy conditions.


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By jbarnum
From Fort Collins, CO
Jan 17, 2010

Martha this past Saturday was leaner than spring conditions. Little to no ice in the first two pitches, a body length on the third, none on the fourth and the finish had enough to take two screws. The snow was fun and consolidated in some areas, and a sugar, sloughing, mess in others. Still a fun outing.




To the party passed on the trail up, I owe you a six pack. Did not see you guys come up, probably for fear of being in the cross hairs. Smart move, you did not miss anything. Contact me through here for that six pack.

Third pitch.
Third pitch.
Submitted By: jbarnum on Jan 17, 2010


No ice at the start.
No ice at the start.
Submitted By: jbarnum on Jan 17, 2010


Fourth pitch.
Fourth pitch.
Submitted By: jbarnum on Jan 17, 2010


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By Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Jan 17, 2010

Good climbing with you Jim.

I personally was pleasently surprised by the amount of ice we found in Martha - I wasn't expecting any. But then again I like climbing steep snow. This was my first time on the route and I thought it was lots of fun. We experianced everything from good ice, to snice, unconsolidated snow, good styrofoam, and of course lots of fourth class moves on rotten rock.




Jim enjoying good styrofoam neve on the second pitch.



Jim following the fourth pitch, which was pretty thin but loads of fun.



The "crux" pitch which offered up some decent pick placements and fun stemming moves on the rock.



Just to say we did...



Good ice-bouldering was found on the decent down the camel Couloir.


Things actually looked pretty decent up there. The second pitch on Alexander's looked good, thin above that though. Columbine and Peacock were definately in, and the Loft ice is looking pretty damn good and the bowl above it a little less threatening.

Cheers.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 17, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!

How was the snow in the wide part exiting Martha at the top of the couloir?


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By Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Jan 17, 2010

Chris,

The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 17, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!

Kevin Landolt wrote:
Chris, The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.


Thanks Kevin!


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By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Jan 18, 2010
Bunny pancake

Officer's Gulch 1/17/10.
Officer's Gulch 1/17/10.
Submitted By: Mike McKinnon on Jan 18, 2010


conditions were good this week-end.


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By Mike McKinnon
From Golden, CO
Jan 18, 2010
Bunny pancake

More Officer's Gulch.
More Officer's Gulch.
Submitted By: Mike McKinnon on Jan 18, 2010


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By Ken Trout
From Golden, CO
Jan 18, 2010

Here's a shot of Stoneman in the sun and West Gully with a party starting up, January 10, 2010.
Here's a shot of Stoneman in the sun and West Gully with a party starting up, January 10, 2010.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jan 18, 2010


Ophir Ice Hose, January 17, 2010.
Ophir Ice Hose, January 17, 2010.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jan 18, 2010


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From Westminster, Colorado
Jan 19, 2010

Officer's Gulch - less than typical snow levels. 1" fell today.

The Shroud - in & blue.

Tony's Nightmare - in & blue.

Unnamed Gully - in & blue. Bit of upper ice.

Gordon gettin' off the couch.
Gordon gettin' off the couch.
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 19, 2010


Round The Corner - in, hollow in spots, 4+.
Gordo Bro gettin' off the couch.
Gordo Bro gettin' off the couch.
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 19, 2010


Fish Out of Water - lean, ice high off the ground.
Wide, but high.
Wide, but high.
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 19, 2010


Three Tiers - in & blue.
3 Tiers.
3 Tiers.
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 19, 2010


The Shaft - snow filled.
Does it have ice?
Does it have ice?
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 19, 2010


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By Brad White
Jan 20, 2010

Has anyone been up to, or taken a close look at N. Face of Notchtop recently. The avalanche danger has moderated for the time being, and hopefully there has been a little freeze/thaw on the crux pitch.

Any info. would be appreciated.


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By Charles Danforth
From L'ville, CO
Jan 20, 2010
Do a little dance...

Timberline Falls in Loch Vale is in climbable shape. The main flow is 100' of WI3 and the right side is two bulges of about the same rating. Both can be TRed with a 70, maybe a 60 if you're more clever with anchors than we were. Nice ice, nice setting, modest approach.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 21, 2010
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

Brad White wrote:
Has anyone been up to, or taken a close look at N. Face of Notchtop recently. The avalanche danger has moderated for the time being, and hopefully there has been a little freeze/thaw on the crux pitch. Any info. would be appreciated.


Lots of snow was covering the ice a week ago. You could only see a sliver of ice in the middle. I'd like to see a photo of what it looks like now as well.


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By Dougald MacDonald
Jan 21, 2010

Kelly Cordes was skiing up in that drainage today. You could ask him.

Dougald
coloradomountainjournal.com


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By Brad White
Jan 22, 2010

Thanks Stich and Dougald!


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By Kevin Craig
Jan 24, 2010
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Time to become popular with the West Slope crowd (sorry guys, but I give the the goods from the East Slope too)...

Rifle is going off (uh, no pun intended). Before going though, it's best to be solid on WI5 and ready for thin/scary/semi-detached top-outs. Ain't no TR crag.


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By Stephen Berwanger
From Montrose, CO
Jan 24, 2010
Summit of Sunlight

It's OK Kevin to talk about the west slope ice as long as its in the guide books.
All the other stuff SSSHHH!!!!!!
Here's a couple pics from Rifle yesterday.

Kevin and me on Soul on Ice.
Kevin and me on Soul on Ice.
Submitted By: Stephen Berwanger on Jan 24, 2010


Kevin and me on Stone Free, Ice Palace on right.
Kevin and me on Stone Free, Ice Palace on right.
Submitted By: Stephen Berwanger on Jan 24, 2010


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By erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Jan 25, 2010
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good

Just returned from a weekend at Rifle, which is in excellent shape. Stone Free is in easy 5 shape with a moderate top out. Ice Palace was led by my partner Dan Battin, 5++ with a pretty exciting top out, doubt it will last much longer....

Ice Palace, Anjie toproping.
Ice Palace, Anjie toproping.
Submitted By: erik wellborn on Jan 25, 2010


Ice Palace.
Ice Palace.
Submitted By: erik wellborn on Jan 25, 2010


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By Dale D
From Parker, CO
Jan 27, 2010
Five Finger Discount

The Shroud 1-27-10.
The Shroud 1-27-10.
Submitted By: Dale D on Jan 27, 2010



Was up on The Shroud today so I thought I would share.


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