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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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By Wes B.
Dec 16, 2009
Profile Photo
ErikJohnson wrote:
Does anyone know if there is climbable ice in the Big Thomson Canyon?


According to Eli H. the Big Thompson Upper Flow is in. I have been through the narrows a couple of times and haven't seen anything worth mentioning.

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By acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Dec 16, 2009
ErikJohnson wrote:
Does anyone know if there is climbable ice in the Big Thomson Canyon?


There IS ice in the Big Thompson, enough for multiple TRs on the upper flow. The lower flow is not in which is likely why it doesn't look like much from the road.

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By jack roberts
Dec 16, 2009
Opps. I meant there is ice on the FIRST Flatiron.

There is snow turning to ice and then fading out but turning back into ice on the right side of the third. It's very distinct....

Sorry for any confusion. I've spent too much time driving around in circles lately. I've updated my conditions page this afternoon.

JACK

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By Dale D
From Parker, CO
Dec 17, 2009
Five Finger Discount
Bolt at the base of Coors Lite - circled in red.
Bolt at the base of Coors Lite - circled in red.


So I was out soloing/bouldering on Coors Lite today. I noticed a bolt on a boulder at the base of the first pitch - right in the center. If this is to be used for belaying, I think it is in a real bad place. I can just see the ice flying down and bouncing off the larger boulder in front of you - right at the face of said belayer. Notice the pile of ice chunks just in front of where the bolt is.

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By Dale D
From Parker, CO
Dec 17, 2009
Five Finger Discount
Mickey's 12-17-09
Mickey's 12-17-09


Mickey's on 12-17-09 - it was 42 degress in the canyon.

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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Dec 17, 2009
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.

We made a bit of a mess up there yesterday...and got pumped!
Ice conditions report, weather forecast, and more on: climbinglife.com

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By EMT
Dec 18, 2009
me bouldering in MT
mixed climbing is right. rock, ice, wood.

nice work. I'll bet that was one helluva pump!

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By Joseph Crotty
From Broomfield, CO
Dec 18, 2009
Maltese cross.
Eli,

Thanks for the great video. Burly!

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By mike bromberg
From Crested Butte, CO
Dec 19, 2009
Eli, looks fun!

Anyone been down to Chipeta Falls/Blue Mesa area this season??

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By Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Dec 19, 2009
Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully of Arrowhead.  If anyone cleans that stopper and pin, I'd be glad to have it back.
Skied up to Black Lake today. Lots of ice up there. The West Gully is in good, Stone Man is still in and there's some other options to the right. The Black Lake Slabs are in very fat, and Reflections is looking good.

Trails were packed to Mills Lake, but beyond that you need floatation. We followed a very poorly placed snowshoe track on the way in that meandered way too high and left (east), but were smarter on the way out. Just stay centered and low in the gorge and it shouldn't be too hard to follow the most efficient track.

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By Jim Amidon
Dec 20, 2009
J TREE
Hey Eli,

Nah seems to be almost impossible to find crowds in Cody.

We've been here since Friday and all the major ice climbs are formed, you can walk across the river, and we've run into 2, yes 2 other parties in the entire South Fork......

Oh yea and yesterday at the end of the South Fork road @ 8 am it was 30 degrees, with little to no wind and only 2 other cars in the lot....

Yea baby..............

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By Kevin Craig
Dec 20, 2009
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Pretty much everything in Officer's Gulch is fat and blue and there's currently not much snow either.

For you poachers out there, the I-70 'sicle is as good as I've ever seen it.

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By Wes B.
Dec 21, 2009
Profile Photo
Three Tiers 12/20/09 (the way we climbed it).
Three Tiers 12/20/09 (the way we climbed it).

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By Wes B.
Dec 22, 2009
Profile Photo
Silver Plume conditions 12/22/2009.
Silver Plume conditions 12/22/2009.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Dec 26, 2009
OMG, I winz!!!
CCC was looking fairly thin but Mickys P1 was good enough for some AM laps. It was mostly hooking and stepped out but I had a nice time by myself anyway. P2 looked like it was coming in but the bottom looked a little fragile from around the corner so I left it alone. Hopefully it's good and solid soon.

Coors Lite looked pretty bare, some ice but definitely don't go bashing. I didn't get a good look at ultralight but there seemed to be more there. I didn't go up to Mayhem.

There is a good bit of ice and snow up there, hopefully things will fatten up again.

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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Dec 26, 2009
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Anyone got updates on the Big Thompson?? Looking to head out there maybe early this week....Need to warmup and get my sea legs back :)

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By jack roberts
Dec 27, 2009
For those who are interested, the ice climbs in Glenwood Canyon are fully IN.
Hidden Falls main and left side are IN. Glenwood Falls itself has three seperate lines up it plus there is another one to the far right side, the 4 pitch "Unknown". Yesterday it was cold enough and the ice thick enough where you could walk across the Colorado river on the ice above the pullout. Also, Bridalveil Falls has formed and seen a couple of ascents. STEEP!
Conditions on the Camp Bird Road are really good. About six ice routes have come into shape. Ames Ice Hose is getting thicker every day.

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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Dec 27, 2009
Me, of course
Good 'ol BC ice is very climbable. The lower flows are in decently and present some easy but fun slab climbing and tree hooking. The main ice is in, getting fatter by the day, and getting bashed to shit just as fast. I basically hooked up both lines with only a few mild swings, so I know it's possible to not destroy it. Some other folks up there didn't seem to be able to see all the placements (uh, cough) and were raining down death blocks on all the other parties below. If you climb up there right now, please be gentle, and consider top roping instead of leading.

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By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Dec 27, 2009
Future Goal
Evan Simons wrote:
...and getting bashed to shit just as fast. I basically hooked up both lines with only a few mild swings, so I know it's possible to not destroy it. Some other folks up there didn't seem to be able to see all the placements (uh, cough) and were raining down death blocks on all the other parties below. If you climb up there right now, please be gentle, and consider top roping instead of leading.


I've been wondering if I'm an elitist prick for thinking that everyone should be hooking instead of swinging their tools. It just doesn't make any sense to me when it's WI3.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Dec 27, 2009
OMG, I winz!!!
Jason Himick wrote:
I've been wondering if I'm an elitist prick for thinking that everyone should be hooking instead of swinging their tools. It just doesn't make any sense to me when it's WI3.


It's fun to swing but it's also fun to have nearby ice to climb. I don't think it's so wrong to ask people to be gentle. I figured out hooking on my first trip out and especially on top rope still hook the crap out of everything. And even when you have to swing, usually you can keep from knocking the whole darn flow down. Alas the people talking about this on MP probably aren't the "big offenders" so to speak.

Oh well, thanks for the reports everyone. Keep em coming. I'm going to wander up to the Flatirons sometime soon and see if there is any ice around.

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By Jay Eggleston
From Denver
Dec 27, 2009
Berlin
Jason Himick wrote:
I've been wondering if I'm an elitist prick for thinking that everyone should be hooking instead of swinging their tools. It just doesn't make any sense to me when it's WI3.

I agree in theory, but the reality is that there are way more ice climbers than ice in the front range and a lot of these climbers are new to ice. It takes skill to be gentle and many people have not yet mastered this skill. The other problem, that seems to get worse every year, is that people insist on getting on the ice before it has fully formed.
Formations get hacked to death before they gain a stable base of ice. I guess I sound like an elitist prick too.

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By Dan Dalton
From Boulder, CO
Dec 27, 2009
Working the sick hand-jams on Stemwide aka Big Dihedral (5.8) at North Table. Photo courtesy of Scott Borger.
Evan Simons wrote:
Good 'ol BC ice is very climbable. The lower flows are in decently and present some easy but fun slab climbing and tree hooking. The main ice is in, getting fatter by the day, and getting bashed to shit just as fast. I basically hooked up both lines with only a few mild swings, so I know it's possible to not destroy it. Some other folks up there didn't seem to be able to see all the placements (uh, cough) and were raining down death blocks on all the other parties below. If you climb up there right now, please be gentle, and consider top roping instead of leading.


Agreed!! Or soloing, that works too...

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By Rodney Ley
Dec 27, 2009
seth0687 wrote:
Anyone got updates on the Big Thompson?? Looking to head out there maybe early this week....Need to warmup and get my sea legs back :)


Upper Big T in pretty well. Lots of local traffic and a bit stepped out. I haven't seen lower falls in for many years.

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By Tombo
From Boulder
Dec 27, 2009
1/3 of the way up Spire, just above where my piece blew.
Hiked up to look at Mous-Ka-Tears today and got chased out of tunnel 8 by a train. Is the Rattlesnake Gulch approach the best or is it easier to approach from the Conda quarry side? Tunnels either way I guess. Anyway its going to take quite a bit more snow and melt for the climb to form up.

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By Devan Johnson
Dec 27, 2009
crag dog
Anyone know if Jaws is in? (RMNP)

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