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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions
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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Nov 6, 2009
Props to my home state show

OHHHH YEEEAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!! Ice season.

I am headed down to the front range today and was curious if possibly lincoln has any ice or maybe officer's gulch. I doubt vail has anything but it is a possibility for us.

Also, there is some stuff coming in the san juans. Sherman is in (the pillar is a little dicey but not bad, my boy took a fall and diployed a screamer on the pillar) and others around that area should be in I just haven't had a chance to get out there again.

Thanks,

Matt


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By Eric Rich
From Durham, NC
Nov 6, 2009
near the summit of Yanapaccha (17,913ft) in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru

the NE gully on thatchtop would be a good choice in rocky mountain national park. the approach is not that bad and you will find 60-70 feet of vertical ice on the 1st pitch after you go up the snow gully for 500ft.
let me know if you go to lincoln falls and find anything in...


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By kirra
Nov 6, 2009

Matt Toensing wrote:
OHHHH YEEEAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!! Ice season.


buff no want ice-chicks... i'm iso partners who like girls wearing sharp objects, would be happy to show you mine -drop me a line


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By kurthicks
Nov 6, 2009

A friend climbed All Mixed Up the other day and it looked good from the photos.


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By jack roberts
Nov 6, 2009

my ice conditions page is up and current.

www.jackrobertsclimbing.com


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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Nov 6, 2009
Props to my home state show

kirra wrote:
~(: so..buff no want ice-chicks... i'm iso partners who like girls wearing sharp objects, would be happy to show you mine -drop me a line


What are you talking about?


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Nov 6, 2009
Me, of course

RMNP 11-01-09 1
RMNP 11-01-09 1


The Squid last Sunday. Probably bigger by now. You can't see it but there was ice most of the way to the ground. I've heard Black Lake has ice, and that Lincoln is kinda forming, but more mixed right now. That info is a few days old, could be better now.


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2009
How I Send

Will there be actual conditions posted in this thread?


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2009
How I Send

sorry - just grumpy without any ice yet

That's gonna change tonight though-


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By Buff Johnson
Nov 6, 2009
smiley face

Does your ice park allow you to take you shirt off??


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By Buff Johnson
Nov 6, 2009
smiley face

kirra wrote:
~(: so..buff no want ice-chicks... i'm iso partners who like girls wearing sharp objects, would be happy to show you mine -drop me a line


Hold on Hold on, Hold on a second -- whoa whoa

all this talk of showing our tools


shucks, it was jus a little play on the whiney ass bout the Creek...


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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2009
How I Send

This is what happens when ice climbers have been climbing rock all summer...See Above


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By coloradotomontana
Nov 6, 2009
me

Bra...your boy must be SICK!!! was it like 20, 30, 40 ft? one time i took a 80 footer into a stubby 3 cm into rime ice, just got back up and climbed that shit (WI 7+). having said that, I was on a 2 month acid binge during this time, so anythings possible, could have been a 90 footer, who knows? Kirra, want to get together sometime?


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By jack roberts
Nov 6, 2009

TARTS with DARTS????

Kirra I still have that picture I took of you at the ice fest last year. Should be worth something.........

There is enough ice right now in RMNP, Mt. Lincoln and further afield in Eureka to keep even the most restless of you happy.........

Even if it isn't posted here if you walk around RMNP and especially in the Glacier Gorge area, loaded down with tools, ropes, screws and whiskey you will be able to get on something that will justify a couple of cool ones at the end of the day.....

AMU, West Bench routes, Alexander's, Dreamweaver, The Loft, Peacock Pool routes, Bullett, all of these climbs are IN...........and then there is always the Vail Amphitheatre for you M-climbing types.


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By Stephen Berwanger
From Montrose, CO
Nov 6, 2009
Summit of Sunlight

Lincoln has been in for awhile (bowling alley). Not much forming on the right as of 3 weeks ago. Nothing is in in Officers gulch (cant see if upper pillar is touching.....forming for sure but probabally not in)

FYI I'm in cody now and there plenty of ice here. Gonna be a great year for the South fork!!!!


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By jack roberts
Nov 6, 2009

I heard there was an exodus from Boulder going all the way up there for just the weekend...........Seemed a bit extreme but then "desperate times call for desperate measures".

Great climbing up there when it does come in. When it doesn't, well there are always the sheep.........


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By kirra
Nov 7, 2009

jack roberts wrote:
Kirra I still have that picture I took of you at the ice fest last year. Should be worth something...

a trade perhaps for 1-of-u sconced in purple(hair)...heh-heh

jack roberts wrote:
"if you walk around RMNP...loaded down with tools, ropes, screws and whiskey you will be able to get on something....""well there are always the sheep...."

tap-tap... startin 2 git concerned bout u jack

.. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..
yer gonna have to do better than that Pat


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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Nov 7, 2009
Props to my home state show

Pat Erley wrote:
Bra...your boy must be SICK!!! was it like 20, 30, 40 ft? one time i took a 80 footer into a stubby 3 cm into rime ice, just got back up and climbed that shit (WI 7+). having said that, I was on a 2 month acid binge during this time, so anythings possible, could have been a 90 footer, who knows? Kirra, want to get together sometime?


Pat it was Scott and Clay and I peed our pants.


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By jack roberts
Nov 7, 2009

Kirra, CHECK!!

Don't worry about me. I'm fine. I'm not the one going all the way to Cody for the sheep, er, climbing................Let's get out!

JACK


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By clay meier
Nov 7, 2009
Thats Me

First off I hate all of you. Second, can we get a real discussion of ice conditions here? I have to wade through miles of pictures of fat people on ice and spraying to get any conditions. OK well you all have a nice day and maybe I'll see you at the crag! P.S. Pat, lay off the acid. I have some meth im trying to get rid of. its way better
p.s.s. now that you all have waded through my crap here are the conditions that i know of:

Sherman Falls (near lake city) is in and fat.
Other stuff around Lake city is probably in (see closed and open casket, the pencil... etc.)
Stuff around Crested Butte is also coming in.


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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Nov 7, 2009
Props to my home state show

clay meier wrote:
First off I hate all of you. Second, can we get a real discussion of ice conditions here? I have to wade through miles of pictures of fat people on ice and spraying to get any conditions. OK well you all have a nice day and maybe I'll see you at the crag! P.S. Pat, lay off the acid. I have some meth im trying to get rid of. its way better p.s.s. now that you all have waded through my crap here are the conditions that i know of: Sherman Falls (near lake city) is in and fat. Other stuff around Lake city is probably in (see closed and open casket, the pencil... etc.) Stuff around Crested Butte is also coming in.


I second that, I didn't start a chat forum. I just want to go climb some ice. Pat no whoopy for you when I get home. Maybe some for you clay.


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By jack roberts
Nov 7, 2009

The ice conditions have been posted on previous threads and on other websites.

Some people just can't be bothered to look very hard. There is more than the usual amount of ice in RMNP and there is also ice around Ophir, Lake City, there IS ice in the I-70 corridor and if you look around Breckenridge you'll find..........ICE!!

How much more of a REAL discussion do people need? Go out there and look around!!

In Cody, well, there's ICE!
Down on Pike's Peak?.......LOTS of ice!
In South Mineral Creek?........There's ICE! In Glenwood Canyon?.......... NO ICE!
In Redstone? NO ICE! ........... but there is plenty of M-climbing in Vail.
Should be enough climbing there to tire out the most enthusiastic climber.

BUT, writing is boring. I have to get up early in the morning to go into RMNP and climb ICE!


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By matt snider
From Flagstaff AZ.
Nov 8, 2009

jack roberts wrote:
ice around Ophir

Love to hear it, is anything in Ames in.


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By Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Nov 8, 2009
On Bridelveil

Yea, Pikes Peak has ice. Good luck finding a time when the highway is open. Might need to skip the road and bring you bivy gear if you want to get these done in time.


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By jack roberts
Nov 8, 2009

OK, everyone. First: We all have to takes turns walking around RMNP looking for ice through strong binoculars.......I can't be the only one. I'm too old and bitter!!!

Ames Ice Hose. My friends down there tell me that it is very close to forming. Probably just a week away. Ingraham Falls seems to be the climb with the best chance of forming enough to be climbed anytime soon. Sometimes those guys at Jagged Edge sports know the current condition. Bridalvail Falls generally comes in before Christmas and fills in enough to not be too fragile until after that. The Bone has not formed and neither has Coronet. There is ice that is getting climbed in Bear Creek but as we know, all that is pretty short.

Mount Lincoln has the usual amount of ice. Someimtes there is ice on the other side of Quandry, by Blue Lakes. There is a four pitch moderate route over there but I don't think it has come into shape yet.

Now, Officer's Gulch. Up by the Needle there is a one pitch section of ice. The Needle (Pencil, Candlestick etc) will probably be solid enough to climb this weekend. There are other potential routes over there also but you have to pull off the highway and scope them out to be sure. Right now is a good time to do that because there isn't much snow to obscure the view. Avi danger is also low.

LEADVILLE: The Chalk Cliffs may be in. Call the Outing Center or Outdoor Rec department at Colorado Mountain College and ask. They use that cliff for practise.

Now, the biggie is the Sword of Damocles over by Mt. Anteres IN? Don't know but there is a bed and breakfast over there that allows for a clear view of the climb. They have changed hands since my last guide and have renamed I'll try and find the phone number.

WOLF CREEK: nothing that I have heard of. Treasure Falls should be in very soon.

Remember there is another ice park besides Ouray, and that one is in Lake City. George's Gorge has 50 routes and is fully operable and free. Check www.lakecityice.com for more info. Also remember there is www.splitterchoss.com for info around Redstone and Carbondale.

RMNP has alot of ice right now. Alexander's, Dreamweaver, The Eighth, All-Mixed-Up, Black Lake area, Notch-top have all formed. Now the tricky thing is that what remains are routes which come and go like the wind. Some of these routes just require that people go in and LOOK. The rock around Hallett's is unusual in that there are many features that are horizontal and as such hold snow longer than say, the rock over by Long's Peak. So what that means, funlovers is that you may have to actually go right up to the route and begin climbing to actually determine whether or not a route is climbable. You can't just tell by scooping from the trail. You may be surprised at what is actually climbable.

Don't forget Craig Peak ovevr on the western side of RMNP, over by Grand Lake. Consistently every year ice forms over there.

Mostly figure that when we get a couple of big dumps, spaced about 3 to 5 days apart with warm daytime temps and then night time temps around 17 degrees there will be ice in these places:

A) Long's Peak area
B) Glacier Gorge
C) Emerald Lake/Dream Lake

But I digress.........it's time to go climb this slippery stuff.


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By Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Nov 8, 2009



Good to go. Snow seemed a bit funky to my pacific northwesterner eyes.


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