200 Motels 5.8-
| 4,501 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | AJ on Jan 1, 2002 |
| |
Efferem chalking up on the small ledge before the ...
Add Photo Printer View
Description This is the straight crack just right of Taken for Granite. Same start: a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block.From here, go straight up in a finger and hand crack. 2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.
Protection thin to 2.5"
As 200 Motels splits to the right.
| Jose enjoys the movement through the beautiful gra...
| Brian Weiss, of Sacramento, thanks the heavens tha...
| Jonny slithering up 200 Motels. 4/08/08
| BETA PHOTO: 200 Motels
| Jason thoroughly enjoying 200 motels and Taken fo...
| RM cruising the lower section
| | |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Oct 5, 2002 rating: 5.8
| No trip to Indian Cove is complete without hiking beautiful Rattlesnake Canyon and roping up for "200 Motels." The route is incredible--smooth, Sierra-like granite betrays this route's location, and the finger locks are outrageously good! Is 5.8 allowed to be this fun?! Don't miss it. It,s among the coolest moderate pitches in the park. MatthewVentura, CA |
By Anonymous Coward Jan 4, 2004
| Awesome climbing, including face, OW, chimney, to a spectacular ~100 foot hand/finger crack (the right of the two cracks). This thing eats up nuts and hexes, and a large cam (4.5 Camalot) will protect the move into the wide crack and chimney. The technical crux comes quickly. Above the climbing is sweet and easy! You will want to climb it again, but don't have to because "Taken for Granite" is 10 feet away and even better! Descent: A chossy, veg-filled gully on climber's right leads back to the base. |
By Jeff Sewell Jan 5, 2004
| Just a bit of trivia, but the original 200 Motels is the arching 40' right facing layback crack just below Rattlesnake Buttress. I don't know what that thing is called in the guide these days (is it even in the guide?), but I belayed Roy McClenahan on it / spring '79. Nice rock quality, cool moves; 10a-ish. Edit- i read what Outdoor Eric wrote below- --route I thought we originally named 200 Motels was in fact Cactus Cooler. |
By outdooreric From: Lyons, CO Feb 11, 2007 rating: 5.8
| From the finishing ledge, I was able to run it out on moderate face to the sling wad at the top of Taken For Granite. This makes for a 140 foot pitch and avoids the descent gully. I think Jeff Sewell is referring to Cactus Cooler 5.10b, which starts out great then gets a bit nebulous. |
By Darren D. Mar 28, 2007 rating: 5.8
| This route along with the 5.8 to the left are really nice moderate routes. Clean rock up in a high position in a nice canyon. Easy scramble off to climbers right. Don't stir up the ants at the start. |
By Bryan Davenport From: 29palms Mar 21, 2010
| We stuck to the thin crack for some added finger/toe jams. Sustained and fun. The Down climb is pretty well blocked by a yucca. No problem for this climb, since it ends just short of the yucca, but the other climbs are a bit more challenging to down climb. Any tips for this tree? |
By Tom Fralich From: Fresno, CA Nov 27, 2010 rating: 5.7+
| Not as good as Taken for Granite. If you have to choose to lead one or the other, choose Taken for Granite. |
By UpRope Mar 30, 2011
| Great route on superb rock but only unless you want to spend half the day in a hike/thrash-fest through stinging ant and sticker-bush infested boulder jungle. |
|