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Rattlesnake Buttress
Routes Sorted
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200 Motels T 
Approach Pitch T 
Back Up Singers T 
Cactus Cooler T 
Eureka! S 
Foxtail Fryer TR 
Jojoba Heater T 
Pictures of Home T 
Roy's Route T 
Taken for Granite T 
Test Pilot T 

200 Motels 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,335
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Brian Weiss, of Sacramento, thanks the heavens tha...

Description 

This is the straight crack just right of Taken for Granite. Same start: a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block.From here, go straight up in a finger and hand crack.

2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.

Protection 

thin to 2.5"


Photos of 200 Motels Slideshow Add Photo
As 200 Motels splits to the right.
As 200 Motels splits to the right.
Jose enjoys the movement through the beautiful granite groove on the Rattlesnake Buttress.
Jose enjoys the movement through the beautiful gra...
Jason thoroughly enjoying 200 motels and  Taken for Granite shortly after.  Both great climbs and worthy of the boulder scrambling approach
Jason thoroughly enjoying 200 motels and Taken fo...
Efferem chalking up on the small ledge before the final push to the top.
Efferem chalking up on the small ledge before the ...
200 Motels
BETA PHOTO: 200 Motels
Jonny slithering up 200 Motels. <br /> <br />4/08/08
Jonny slithering up 200 Motels. 4/08/08
RM cruising the lower section
RM cruising the lower section

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 5, 2002
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No trip to Indian Cove is complete without hiking beautiful Rattlesnake Canyon and roping up for "200 Motels." The route is incredible--smooth, Sierra-like granite betrays this route's location, and the finger locks are outrageously good! Is 5.8 allowed to be this fun?! Don't miss it. It,s among the coolest moderate pitches in the park.

MatthewVentura, CA
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 4, 2004

Awesome climbing, including face, OW, chimney, to a spectacular ~100 foot hand/finger crack (the right of the two cracks). This thing eats up nuts and hexes, and a large cam (4.5 Camalot) will protect the move into the wide crack and chimney. The technical crux comes quickly. Above the climbing is sweet and easy! You will want to climb it again, but don't have to because "Taken for Granite" is 10 feet away and even better! Descent: A chossy, veg-filled gully on climber's right leads back to the base.
By Jeff Sewell
Jan 5, 2004

Just a bit of trivia, but the original 200 Motels is the arching 40' right facing layback crack just below Rattlesnake Buttress. I don't know what that thing is called in the guide these days (is it even in the guide?), but I belayed Roy McClenahan on it / spring '79. Nice rock quality, cool moves; 10a-ish.

Edit- i read what Outdoor Eric wrote below- --route I thought we originally named 200 Motels was in fact Cactus Cooler.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 11, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

From the finishing ledge, I was able to run it out on moderate face to the sling wad at the top of Taken For Granite. This makes for a 140 foot pitch and avoids the descent gully.

I think Jeff Sewell is referring to Cactus Cooler 5.10b, which starts out great then gets a bit nebulous.
By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route along with the 5.8 to the left are really nice moderate routes. Clean rock up in a high position in a nice canyon. Easy scramble off to climbers right. Don't stir up the ants at the start.
By Bryan Davenport
From: 29palms
Mar 21, 2010

We stuck to the thin crack for some added finger/toe jams. Sustained and fun. The Down climb is pretty well blocked by a yucca. No problem for this climb, since it ends just short of the yucca, but the other climbs are a bit more challenging to down climb. Any tips for this tree?
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not as good as Taken for Granite. If you have to choose to lead one or the other, choose Taken for Granite.
By UpRope
Mar 30, 2011

Great route on superb rock but only unless you want to spend half the day in a hike/thrash-fest through stinging ant and sticker-bush infested boulder jungle.
By Phil Esra
Jan 2, 2014

Not quite as good as Taken for Granite, but while you're there, might as well--it's still one of the better 5.8s in the park. Deposits you in the gully below the monster yucca, so downclimbing is easy.

This climb is more sustained at 5.7ish than Taken for Granite (though the low crux is shared). If you're a 5.8- leader, try Taken for Granite first.