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2 Ways 2 Hell 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: pat thompson on Dec 19, 2010

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Bivy ledge on 2 Ways 2 Hell.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the Hellraiser chimney.

I cleaned some scary loose rock out of the chimney, and I also cleaned a lot of dirt and rubble out of the obvious, sweet hand crack just right of the chimney. Enjoy the clean handcrack!!!! Too bad it is not wayyyy longer. I placed two # 1 Camalots to get to the now clean ledge.

Start # 2 climbs up the bulgy face around the corner and to the right of the previous start. This start climbs past 1 bolt, then a good medium TCU placement, then another bolt to the obvious ledge. Once on the ledge, one can make the route way harder and even more contrived and climb left of the bolts that lead up the clean face past the overlap and to the anchor on the ledge 5.?. Being the weak man that I am, I climbed to the chimney clipping the first bolt on the left. I then placed two RPs in the bomber flake and then moved left onto the awesome steep face past the overlap and on sweet jugs to the ledge and the chain anchor on the left. One can also bail out right to the anchor for "Half and Half 2".

Location 

Page 85 Hellraiser, topo p.84 Haas and Scheider. This next route has two starts that both lead to an obvious, huge, bivy ledge 18 and 3/4 feet off the deck!! The first start is just right of the Hellraiser chimney.

Protection 

Both starts/routes are mixed. Use bolts and gear to a #1 Camalot.

Eds. there are 6 bolts & anchor bolts to the left of the last bolt.


Photos of 2 Ways 2 Hell Slideshow Add Photo
Best moves on 2 Ways 2 Hell.
Best moves on 2 Ways 2 Hell.
Looking up from the second bolt on the bolted star...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the second bolt on the bolted star...
Hand crack 2 Ways 2 Hell.
Hand crack 2 Ways 2 Hell.
The "Long" chains at the anchor!
BETA PHOTO: The "Long" chains at the anchor!
Dave warming up on start #2.
Dave warming up on start #2.
Looking down the handcrack of variation #1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the handcrack of variation #1.

Comments on 2 Ways 2 Hell Add Comment
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By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 27, 2011

Hey, got on this route, I believe, still has quite a bit of of loose rock and a little sketchy rock, nice bolts. WOW! Those are some beefy chains at the finish.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 29, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The upper face has four bolts and the start has two, for a total of six bolts.