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DescriptionThe South Buttress is the relatively steep, imposing wall on the left-most side of the cliff. While the rest of Whitehorse is characterized by friction climbing, the South Buttress offers technical and pumpy edge climbing up a soaring vertical wall. There are even some cracks thrown in too. Getting ThereFollow directions to the individual areas. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 2. South Buttress:
Inferno 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 380 feet Atlantis Area
Hotter Than Hell 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches Atlantis Area
Cold Day in Hell 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet Atlantis Area
Ladyslipper 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet Wonder Wall
Lost Souls 5.10a/b Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Atlantis Area
The Last Unicorn 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Wonder Wall
Atlantis 5.10b Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet Atlantis Area
Tranquility 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Atlantis Area
Jacobs Ladder 5.10c Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Atlantis Area
Featured Route For 2. South Buttress
The Last Unicorn 5.10b NH : Whitehorse Ledge : ... : Wonder Wall
Pitch 1a) Sky Streak start: From the two bolt anchor 25' off the Wonder Wall tree ledge, step left and climb a short, steep wall past two bolts, move up on easier ground to a ledge and a bolt. Traverse right to the first belay on The Last Unicorn. 5.10b. Pitch 1b) Note: Rockfall may have altered the start of this pitch. The Sky Streak start is more commonly used. The original start: traverse down and right passing the latter two bolt anchor for almost a pitch and start a large, d...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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