All types of climbing from fingers to fists, face to off-width, and exposed overhangs to chimney. Test every style you have in your bag of tricks. All clean pitches (rare for sedona)
Fay Canyon Butttress, Sedona, AZ See topo for details
70m rope or two 60m. Camalot or equivalent Double #.4-#2 Single #3, #4. 6 extendable draws.
On the first full ascent, January 2010, I think. ...
BETA PHOTO: view from approach. pitch 1 corner bottom right o...
BETA PHOTO: looking at p2-p5, p2 Hey Hey variation out of view...
BETA PHOTO: 2 Legit not to climb
BETA PHOTO: Topo and approach
traverse below anchor starting pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: route from approach. Big tan buttress/ wide crack...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 Roof.
cody on pitch 3 crux
Jim Donini following the first chimney pitch. Nice...
|By Dave Spies|
From: Sedona, AZ
Dec 17, 2012
The FA was done ground up in 2010 and most bolts were added later.
I would like feedback on the ratings. Also could use some new paint on bolts if you have the time. Tried to camo all bolts and chains, but the paint I had sucks.
Also some fun TR variations if you have extra time. At least 9 possible pitches of climbing that make the approach totally worth it. And some ruins if you search hard enough. Please do not disturb ruins or collect artifacts.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 21, 2013
Excellent, varied climb. I think the rating listed on the topo for each pitch is accurate. Pitch 2-Excellent crack/layback, P3-Awesome roof, P4-Exposed face climbing, then short off-width, P5-Fun chimney. Stay left after the P5 chimney to the top anchors. Scramble up to cool summit. Anchors are well-thought out, (the first 3 raps requiring almost all of the single 70m rope). Loose rock at the P4 tree anchor belay station. We used the hand-made topo on MP and found the start of the route with no problems in 1 hour, 15 minutes. Great winter route. With the exception of P1, we had sun all day. 3.5 stars.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2013
This probably goes without saying, but if you've chopped your 70M at all (even one meter) you should bring two ropes. The raps are perfectly spaced for 70M, so if you're short you will be short!
|By Ryan Z|
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Good route for the colder days. It was in the sun all morning for us. 3rd pitch is wild! really fun. The topo says double rack. But singles of .3-3 and a set of nuts is really all you need.
|By Catherine Conner|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
So freakin' great, I'd give it a classic status, amazing, beautiful, backcountry, and encompasses everything you could want out of a climb!!!! Great route, I'm so happy it exists, this will be a highlight of my year, good job guys on the F.A. of this :-) :-) !!!!
Dave, I met you in the Grand Canyon on the day of the government shutdown, I was going in to canyoneer Garden Creek with some friends ~ you told me about this route and that it was good, THANK YOU (you were right)!!!!!!!