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2. Duet Area etc

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Add Libs T 
All Day Sucker T 
British Were Coming, The T 
Condemned Man T 
Continuation of Rock Candy T 
Duet T 
Duet Direct T 
Fall from Grace  T,S 
Jawbreaker (not completely done)  T 
Light Brigade, The T 
Lightning Crack  T 
Pops-Sick-Hill T 
Raven Crack T 
Rock Candy T 
Rodan T 
Sam's Ghost T 
Sam's Swan Song T 
Sayonara T 
Sextet T 
Shadey Grove (unfinished) T 
Sinister Satisfaction  T 
Slow and Easy T 
Sticky Fingers T 
White and Young T 

2. Duet Area etc Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.15669, -71.68666 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,397
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 23, 2011


32° | 25°
Thanksgiving Day

41° | 35°

48° | 22°

30° | 17°

31° | 21°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This area as I'm outlining it is the area right of the Black Dike and left of the big wall VMC area.
There are many fun routes here climbing corners, cracks and aretes some short like Sticky Fingers some quite long like Sam's Swan Song.

Getting There 

hike the Whitney-Gillman trail or the Moby Grape trail and make your way along the cliff base.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.8 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in 2. Duet Area etc

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 2. Duet Area etc:
Lightning Crack    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
Sam's Swan Song   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Duet   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 260'   
Sinister Satisfaction    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'   
Slow and Easy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'   
The British Were Coming   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800'   
Raven Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'   
Sticky Fingers   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 100'   
Duet Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 2. Duet Area etc

Featured Route For 2. Duet Area etc
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Duet Direct (5.10+) at Cannon.

Duet Direct 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NH : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc
Duet Direct is a stout and neglected two-pitch route near the popular one pitch climbs of Slow and Easy and Sticky Fingers. The first pitch is an excellent warm up for the business on the second pitch. Here, expect Devil's Tower-style stemming and Yosemite-quality granite. I'm surprised that this excellent and well-protected route doesn't get more traffic. Pitch 1 (5.8, 100ft): Climb up thin but seemingly sold flake systems, using a combination of techniques. This pitch is fun and leads to a com...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on 2. Duet Area etc Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
May 27, 2012
The area is very unsorted. From right or north to left I'm presenting the best to my knowledge, the order of the climbs are; Psyche Dike right or north of Moby Grape.
left of big wall Sinister Satisfaction on Sam's Swan Song Buttress, going left now Lightning Crack is a variation to Sam's Swan Song (Sam's goes up the left facing inside corner right and not this crack), Above this pitch is the original start to Hierphant Tower and left of that Sam's Ghost. Next starting on the ground far left of Sam's is Rodan, Sticky Fingers, Slow and Easy, Above Slow and Easy is Raven Crack, Starting on the ground is Sextet, Duet Buttress, Above first pitch of Duet is Duet Direct, left from Duet starting on the ground is Dreamin, Pop-Sick-Hill, Rock Candy to Continuation of Rock Candy, right of Continuation of Rock Candy is Jaw Breaker.
Starting on the ground left of Quartet Dike is; All Day Sucker, British Were Coming, Sayonara, Add Lib's, The Light Brigade, Shady Grove, and lastly the White and Young Route.
I don't know where the Condemned Man Route is.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 21, 2012
Thanks Bradley. This sounds like a job for Lee or Jay, as I am not familiar enough with Cannon. I think it has been at least 25 years since I climbed Duet Direct. Before I retire from new routing I want to put up at least one good pitch on Cannon though. I need to up my aid soloing skills first.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2012
im with mark on this, i'd trust your line up... just type it up as a neat list
and id be happy to fix it up then delete out discussion here
By Michael Z.
Sep 28, 2012
Delete away!

From Left to Right, as far as I can tell.

Psyche Dike... is north, right of Moby Grape

1.White and Young Route
2.Shady Grove
3.The Light Brigade
4.Add Lib's
6.The British Were Coming
7.All Day Sucker
8.Continuation of Rock Candy
9.Jaw Breaker
10.Rock Candy
13.Duet Direct
16.Raven Crack
17.Slow & Easy
18.Sticky Fingers
19.Rodan 5.11
20.Sam's Ghost
21.Lightning Crack
22.Condemned Man
23.Fall From Grace
24.Sinister Satisfaction
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2012
thanks dude :)
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 28, 2012
Thanks, Mike...a big help. Lee, I got most of the two areas sorted, but left two routes for you.

Do you think we should put numbers in front of the area names so they will show in order in the main Cannon area list or just leave them alphabetical?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 28, 2012
yeah numbers makes sense... good call... i took care of it
By Michael Z.
Sep 28, 2012
Nice happy to help.

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