1st time to Red Rock

Hi,

I'm heading to Red Rocks soon for four days of climbing. A friend and I are hoping to get on some multi-pitch trad routes that wouldn't put us in over our heads.

I'm a fairly new trad climber- been leading the past 6 months as if it were my job. = ) (Done limited long stuff at Cannon, Eldorado Canyon, and some slab.) I comfortably lead 6s at the Gunks and 7s/8s elsewhere. I'll lead 10a sport, but am not sure about the grades at Red Rocks. My partner climbs 10s and sport leads 8s-10s, but may have limited crack experience.

We're looking for warm-up trad the first day with some sport around, do you have any suggestions? Physical Graffiti sounds nice to do a multi-pitch.

Having limited experience in route finding and not going with a local, I have soo many questions. Any suggestions on finding the climbs (Cat in the Hat, Johny V to Solar Slabs, and/or Physical Graffiti), staying en route, and/or info on the descent would be awesome. Pictures would really be great.

Thanks for any help! = )
Peace,
Brooke

10a face climbing in RR is well within your grasp.

Johnny V to Solar Slab approach is remarkable easy. But start it off with Beulah's Book instead. You can bypass the 9+ pitch via a phenomenal 5.8 face pitch. SO worth it.

Crimson Chrysalis is a big wall Red Rock Classic. The first pitches are considered crack, but I have climbed it using the crack mainly for pro and climbed on mostly on the face. After you exit the crack you could basically leave your trad gear behind. The upper pitches are easy and all clip ups. The crack protection is straight forward plug ins. Get there early to avoid the line.

Consider the weather in your plans. Vegas is experiencing record high temperatures as of today Nov 8. Highs in the 80s makes climbing in the sun a little uncomfortable. If the temperatures return to the usual seasonal high 60s, climbing in the sun is preferred.

I was on the Solar Slab two days ago, and the rock was too hot. Yesterday, the Dark Shadows area was perfect (really strange for this time of year).

Route finding in the canyons is always a bit of a challenge for a newcomer. For example, getting to the base of the Solar Slab routes can be tricky. The new guidebook (Handren) helps a lot in this aspect with its color photos.

Cat in the Hat is a lot of fun but don't underestimate the route finding on that one either. Pretty engaging for the "fairly new trad climber."

Physical Graffiti is a good choice for your first day. I consider it a good Intro to RR climbing; easy approach and only two pitches. CC is a great climb, but you may want to leave it for your last climb; it may be a bit over-reaching early on for a first timer to RR.

Other climbs worth considering are Birdland, Group Therapy, Geronimo, and Olive Oil. If you wanted to step it up a bit - after you are more comfortable with route finding and the approaches - consider Ginger Cracks, Crimson Chrys, and Unimpeachable Groping.

DAS

If you are solid at the 5.8 grade, I would reccomend the great red book. Gorgeous 2 pitch 5.8. And you are close to sport climbing, you have to walk through the dark corridor on the approach.

Thanks everyone. We had a great trip to Red Rocks. Amazing weather and great rock. I didn't get many of your posts until now, otherwise we probably would have done things in a different order. Things were great though. = )

Here's a trip report:
The first day we had a really fun hiking/climbing circuit starting with the 5.3 multi-pitch Chips and Salsa climb to Panty Wall and Panty Wall Prow to Ultraman.

The next day we did another awesome circuit of the Magic Bus, Dark Corridor, and Great Red Book 5.8 (with big C4s #4-#6, the 2nd pitch did not feel bad). My 2nd, being new to multi-pitch, left the anchor-- if you found the orange slings and biners, they are good.

Everything working well, the next day we did Cat in the Hat 5.6+ in four pitches with 70m ropes (combined pitch 1 & 2, as well as 3 & 4). Climbing was fun and our strengths seemed to compliment each other. Feeling relaxed we stayed on top for an hour or two and had a nice spread of food, including an effervescent 'Go Girl' energy drink. = ) It was a tuesday and we had the climb to ourselves. We started to descend around 2:45pm and did not get back to the car until 9:45. Opps! With my lack of experience, the descent turned into an epic with several stuck ropes and missed belay stations. Thank goodness for headlamps and being able to ascend ropes.

Last day was super mellow with some sport on Cannibal boulder and then multi-pitch 5.7 Physical Graffiti. We loved the first 5.5 pitch-- sooo awesome! Starting this climb at 3pm, we finished by sunset and then did the walk off with dwindling light. Looking at the initial unroped traverse really got to my head, but my partner talked me through it. Turned out not to be bad after all. Just very airy.

Wow... well, great times. Can't wait to get back and try some longer routes.

Thanks again.
= )
Brooke

Thanks for all the beta... my partner and I, in much the same position as you brooke, are headed out there for four days starting in a week. Any more advice is greatly appreciated. I'm a little less of a trad leader and more of a sport leader. My second will be a little less of a solid second - though with your reports I will remind her about cleaning anchors!

check out the gallery for easy heated climbs and also panty wall and and panty prow. also family crag. hmm... and conundrum crag