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Rock Climbing Photo: Kor's? original belay bolt.
Id# 1308202, 2000 x 1330px View full size
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Aug 18, 2009
Wow, talk about having faith in your gear!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 19, 2009
No kidding? There was some concern and "faith" when I belayed Bruce off of that $hit and an upward-pointed HB can in a small flare on the ledge while he climbed up with a drill and batteries in his pack. Then lead over it on a runout crux to make an anchor above for him to hang on while drilling, so he could lean back. That was cause for some "faith" alright. Anyway, that's why we put in a fat 1/2" one in its place. A factor-2 on that is better than what was there.
By Pat Ament
May 22, 2016
Still some confusion here. Neither Layton nor I placed a bolt at any belay on Rogue's Arete. I did not place one at the top of the first pitch, rather two angle pitons. Layton then led up quite a distance and found a tiny foothold to stand on where he placed a bolt. He then made a short traverse left, and he placed a ring angle into a small, right-facing inside corner (behind a kind of block). He then placed a piton in the angling crack at the top of the block. When I followed, he had me tie into the ring angle, and then he tied me into the ring angle. This was because it would be sketchy, maybe even dangerous for me to try to climb past him, with only that one anchor. He then led the last headwall unprotected. A few people who have described their ascent later made it seem as though it was a different route. I think it is possible there is another route in the vicinity, and people have confused it for Rogue's Arete.
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Kor's? original belay bolt.

Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Oct 9, 2005
On this route:
Rogue's Arete (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R )
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