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By Eric Sjoden
Mar 28, 2014
I led the Allison variation described here a couple years ago. The gear fades away as you are forced to traverse right at the end of the pitch. This traverse consists of slopey 5.9 holds that are covered in thick, crumbly lichen. I am posting this because if you are looking for a "mellow" alpine 5.9 pitch to lead - this pitch probably isn't for you, and it would likely be safer to do the 5.10 crack that can be better protected. If you blow the traverse (again, flowery lichen you are standing on and clinging to) and the RP down and to your left fails (likely), you will definitely get hurt.
As it gets cleaned up, and I think it certainly deserves some traffic, it will be a great pitch.
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