Duane preparing to lead the desperate crux slot, high on the North Ridge of Spearhead.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > N Ridge (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Duane preparing to lead the desperate crux slot, high on the North Ridge of Spearhead.

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Lisa G. and Lisa. S climbing the last pitch to the summit ridge Sunday Sept. 4th, 2011.

Slabbing on the Spearhead.

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2.5 from 2 votes

Mike Sofranko

Dec 8, 2001

“Duane preparing to lead the desperate crux slot, high on the North Ridge of Spearhead.”

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Nearby Photos

Nearing the summit of Spearhead via the North Ridge.

On the summit, with storms moving in, from false summit above Sykes Sickle, Pagoda in background.

North Ridge of Spearhead with some variations. Original photos posted by various Mountain Project members.

Spearhead west-side descent. Original photo and route (red dashed line) from MP member Jeff G.

Looking down the ridge from the top of the last technical pitch.

North Ridge approximate route (slightly offset to see features).

Photo of route variation for North Ridge/North Face.

A route overlay of North Ridge.

Descent beta.

Final pitch up the North Ridge.

Easy slab moves in the middle of the North Ridge.

Bottom left is belaying at the start of the 4th pitch. Small red dot in top left is belaying at the start of the 6th pitch.

Nathan mid-route.

Nice bivy at base of Spearhead North Ridge route.

The summit scramble....

The 'fun'.

Spearhead from a lake along the way.

'E' on the cool, airy summit.

Barb Flake belay.

Jay heading up pitch 2.

A climber climbs the North Ridge, Spearhead, July 12, 2020.

On the way out.

Good start with the sun out on the North Ridge of the Spearhead.

Looking toward Long's and Pagoda (left to right).

Backside of Long's.

David Stillman

Lisa G. and Lisa. S climbing the last pitch to the summit ridge Sunday Sept. 4th, 2011.

Duane preparing to lead the desperate crux slot, high on the North Ridge of Spearhead.

Slabbing on the Spearhead.

Charles Goldman leading up the 3rd pitch.

Gary and John high up on the face trying to get back on route.

Jon on face below crux pitch.

Looking down the North Ridge of Spearhead from below the crux pitch.

The middle portion of the route with the tip of the Barb flake seen on the left.

Duane leading a pitch about halfway up the North Ridge of Spearhead

SUMMIT!

Our bivy at the foot of Spearhead's N Ridge on July 31, 1976 -- the night of the Big Thompson Flood. We finally climbed the route in 1978.

J. Stiles on 1st pitch.

Zoe Burns and Christian Narby at one of the many all-gear belays.

Jon at bivy - start of route in background.

North Ridge.

Zoe Burns low on the route.

Tippy top of zee ridge.

In the groove.

Enjoying some of that alpine exposure near the summit.

More great rock.

Charles Goldman working his way to the top of the second pitch.

Looking down the route.

Lara Hansen breaking down the bivy beneath Spearhead.

Glacier Gorge from the North Ridge.

P5 of North Ridge/North Face variation. Climbed 7/7/04.

Topping out.

Paul mid-route.

Leaving the Barb flake belay, 2nd to last pitch.

Christian Narby midway up the route with Zoe Burns looking on from the last belay.

No hands on the slab just before the Barb Flake.

Christian Narby midway up the route.

Starting the crux pitch.

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