From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2010
The sectors were developed as Chris Taylor and myself started free soloing the formation along the North side along the edge staying safe and then proceeding to move further South onto the exposed face.
There are many amazing formations that take many days of paradise soloing to explore.
P. 1-2 = The standard route would climb up Sector C to the tree to a big chunk to belay your buddy. From there you would traverse left to Sector D onto the face and go straight up through the "Jerry Seinfeld Variation" which is the cool crack in the left side of the roof. Continue to the huge party ledge.
P. 2-3= Then proceed left to Sector E up the amazing "Skyline Arete" to just below a huge loose Boulder (Sector E,F,G combine) and belay with a big sling. Finish the chunk and chill on the next party ledge which is also an area where you can cross a path heading south to the Ghetto bouldering area.
P. 4-6= The "Hollywood Line" is the super easy slab chunk with the huge boulders that could make anyone a Hollywood star with a camera. Besides the huge jugs like the "Hollywood Hold" there's an amazing little chunk on the top of it called the "Tortuous Shell". At the top of the "Hollywood Line" you will come to the "Soup Or Jump" where you can either eat soup or jump. I'd recommend tip-toeing up to the edge which we call the "Diving Board" and jump from there.
P. 7= The "Super Slot" is on the left which is the super classic slot roof moves. Climb to the right and you will be on the next chunks face which is the old standard but not anymore recommended compared to the slot. Proceed up about 30' and then go off the left edge toward the trees and path. When Free-Soloing if you stay on the rock all the way to the "Final Sector" crack you will get the extra points.
P. 8= The "Final Sector" crack is so cool! It starts with a sketchy over hang with a loose block just below the "Trees Of Love". If you can navigate the area without weighting the block or trees then you get major extra points. Then proceed up the amazing crack to the huge final party ledge. Walk right on to the hiking path descent.
I often mention on my Boulder Vidcast show that this is my favorite climb because it's the only 800' 5.2 in the world. I think..
I've soloed it tons of times and it's always a perfect day. Every 300' is a huge party ledge.
My favorite variation is to solo half way up to the 2nd huge party ledge and then traverse the path to the Ghetto. Get a good pump bouldering a little bit and then jump back out on the face and finish the next 400' to the top. BEAUTIFUL!!!!
Hope you like my guide and have a great climb. ~J