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O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
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Xerophyte 5.8 
Zenith 
1000' of Fun 
1200' of more Fun 
Blockbuster. 
Cat Walk. 
Cat's Me-ow., The 
Comedy of Errors 
Crack, The 
Curiosity Killed The Cat 
Curiosity Killed the Rat 
Fall Not 
Gordian Knot, The 
Hollow Men, The 
IME  
Knights-Errant 
Necropolis 
Pegasus 
Perhaps Not 
Planetary Alignment 
Rat Catcher 
Rat in the Hat 
Rat Trap 
Reptilian Curiosity 
Sprogg's Day Out 
Team 500 
Top Hat on the Rat. 
Tread Lightly.  
Wilting Flower, The 
Ziggurat 5.11 

1200' of more Fun 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Patrick Moe (Var Leads) 7th Nov/ 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,524
Submitted By: USBRIT on Nov 11, 2009
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Looking down pitch five!

Description 

AKA: Needle Ridge, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations

P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.

P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'

P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R

P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'

P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'

P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.

Descent: Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.


Location 

Three Fingers Canyon. Drive 6.1 miles from the I.70 gate entrance to faint road on right ,then about two miles (four wheel)to the Three Finger Canyon


Protection 

A few Cams .5 to #2 Camalots. Slings .One 60m rope if Gully descent is taken or Two 60m ropes if one raps down 1000'of Fun



Photos of 1200' of more Fun Slideshow Add Photo
Pat starting the sixth pitch.
Pat starting the sixth pitch.
Paul starting second pitch. Photo  Pat Moe
Paul starting second pitch. Photo Pat Moe
As Pat do not forget your carpet slippers as its possible to encounter  some cryplobiotic soil...
As Pat do not forget your carpet slippers as its p...
Higher on second pitch .. photo Pat Moe
Higher on second pitch .. photo Pat Moe
Paul following the final pitch ..way above the entrance of Three Fingers Canyon
Paul following the final pitch ..way above the ent...
Pat following second pitch
Pat following second pitch
Fun day in the sun. Crews working 1000' of Fun (on left) and 1200' of More Fun (on right).
Fun day in the sun. Crews working 1000' of Fun (on...
Second pitch
Second pitch
Pat near top
Pat near top
Pat starting third pitch
Pat starting third pitch
Pat after descending  the Walk in the Park gully
Pat after descending the Walk in the Park gully
Pat higher on third pitch
Pat higher on third pitch
Without Berghaus gear one will find these climbs much more difficult!. Photo Pat Moe.
Without Berghaus gear one will find these climbs m...
Looking down the third pitch
Looking down the third pitch
Pat with the dogs at the start of the day.No dog problems here as we are the only climbers and dogs in the whole of the area. I guess most of the Colorado climbers and their dogs are at Shelf Road or similar ? Some Barking some shouting "take"...
Pat with the dogs at the start of the day.No dog p...
Pat starting forth pitch
Pat starting forth pitch
Higher on last pitch
Higher on last pitch
Near the end of forth pitch
Near the end of forth pitch
Pat on top of the climb
Pat on top of the climb
Paul on pitch 5.photo Pat Moe
Paul on pitch 5.photo Pat Moe
The climbs:-A) 1200'of More Fun 5.7 B)1000'of Fun 5.6 C)Fall Not 5.7+ D)The Hollow Men 5.9.E)Curiosity Killed the Cat 5.9 F)Reptilian Curiosity 5.11R G)  The Cats-Meow 5.10 and Cats Walk.5.7
The climbs:-A) 1200'of More Fun 5.7 B)1000'of Fun ...
Pitch 5 . photo Pat Moe
Pitch 5 . photo Pat Moe
Camp site
Camp site
Pitch 5.. photo Pat Moe
Pitch 5.. photo Pat Moe
Dawn.
Dawn.
John, looking for a friend above the bolt on P2 of 1200' of More Fun. (Taken from P2 of 1000' of Fun.)
John, looking for a friend above the bolt on P2 of...
Leaving the Swell in evening light.
Leaving the Swell in evening light.
 Starting the first pitch. photo Pat Moe
Starting the first pitch. photo Pat Moe
John and that gurl with the ass chillin' like villains atop the roomy P1 belay. (Taken from P1 of 1000' of Fun.)
John and that gurl with the ass chillin' like vill...
Pat is impressed with antique protection
Pat is impressed with antique protection
That gurl with the ass thing, somewhere in the neighborhood of P5 (I think) of 1200' of More Fun. (Taken from P5 of 1000' of Fun.)
That gurl with the ass thing, somewhere in the nei...
Comments on 1200' of more Fun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wayne Hare
May 29, 2010

Was I on the wrong climb?!? All of the rock on this route is just rotten flakes. Might be considered 'excellent rock' if you're used to climbing on paper mache or something. The route has no pleasant characteristics whatsoever, except the view at the top, the camping in the area, and the proximity to Ray's Tavern in Green River. One pitch had no way to protect it at all, others had only make believe protection on rock that would explode if you actually fell on your pro. Or was protected with one piece that was maybe 15 feet below the belay anchor....which would have failed anyway. Several bolts were either loose and/or not even drilled in all the way. Debatable whether the climb or the walk off is more irritating. Don't know why the instructions talk about a 60 meter rope for the rap off. No rap. Don't know why this climb has ANY stars. This is a climb you don't need to do.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 29, 2010

Sounds like someone's mangina has accumulated quite a bit of sand from all that climbing in the SW desert...
Man up, this is the Swell, not your sanitized home crag.
See here for more of the same type of comments and how they're addressed.

By bheller
From: SL UT
May 29, 2010

Mark one Boissal! Quite entertaining that this was Wayne's first post on the proj! He signed up to post this!Welcome to the community Mr Hare!

By Mike Jungers
Mar 15, 2011

Great route. Thanks Mr. Ross for the belay bolts, and thanks for all the bolts you could have placed but didn't. This route is NOT for you if you're a 50'/ 8 bolt 5.7 leader, but will reward climbers who just put their heads down and go. Highly recommended if you like easy climbing and don't mind slinging three sandcastles on a 200' pitch. Great views from the summit and don't miss the rock art on the hike in.

By AnthonyM
May 1, 2012

RUN OUT. Pitches 5&6 were GREAT. The rest was run out (3 placements in about 200 feet) Don't Slip. Rated well but sketch as far as placements/gear goes... My belayer started cussing at me when sometime either p3 or p4 I finally found a placement (that wasn't crap) 60-70 feet above the him. Screw that. I would rather be on Granite.

By DallinH
From: Utah
May 1, 2012

Stay in Colorado then.

By Wayne Hare
Jan 30, 2014

Hmmmm…I should check back more than every four years. Thought this was a forum for commenting on climbs, not climbers. At any rate, still consider this a way over-rated and dangerous climb. And oh yeah, the Swell pretty much IS my "sanitized home crag".