|O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
1200' of more Fun
|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 1200', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Patrick Moe (Var Leads) 7th Nov/ 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||6,470|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Nov 11, 2009|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
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AKA: Needle Ridge, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations
P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.
P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'
P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R
P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'
P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'
P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.
Descent: Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.
Three Fingers Canyon. Drive 6.1 miles from the I.70 gate entrance to faint road on right ,then about two miles (four wheel)to the Three Finger Canyon
A few Cams .5 to #2 Camalots. Slings .One 60m rope if Gully descent is taken or Two 60m ropes if one raps down 1000'of Fun
Pat starting the sixth pitch.
Paul starting second pitch. Photo Pat Moe
As Pat do not forget your carpet slippers as its p...
Higher on second pitch .. photo Pat Moe
Paul following the final pitch ..way above the ent...
Pat following second pitch
Fun day in the sun. Crews working 1000' of Fun (on...
Pat near top
Pat starting third pitch
Pat after descending the Walk in the Park gully
Pat higher on third pitch
Without Berghaus gear one will find these climbs m...
Looking down the third pitch
Pat with the dogs at the start of the day.No dog p...
Pat starting forth pitch
Higher on last pitch
Near the end of forth pitch
Pat on top of the climb
Paul on pitch 5.photo Pat Moe
The climbs:-A) 1200'of More Fun 5.7 B)1000'of Fun ...
Pitch 5 . photo Pat Moe
Pitch 5.. photo Pat Moe
John, looking for a friend above the bolt on P2 of...
Leaving the Swell in evening light.
Starting the first pitch. photo Pat Moe
John and that gurl with the ass chillin' like vill...
Pat is impressed with antique protection
That gurl with the ass thing, somewhere in the nei...
|By Wayne Hare|
May 29, 2010
Was I on the wrong climb?!? All of the rock on this route is just rotten flakes. Might be considered 'excellent rock' if you're used to climbing on paper mache or something. The route has no pleasant characteristics whatsoever, except the view at the top, the camping in the area, and the proximity to Ray's Tavern in Green River. One pitch had no way to protect it at all, others had only make believe protection on rock that would explode if you actually fell on your pro. Or was protected with one piece that was maybe 15 feet below the belay anchor....which would have failed anyway. Several bolts were either loose and/or not even drilled in all the way. Debatable whether the climb or the walk off is more irritating. Don't know why the instructions talk about a 60 meter rope for the rap off. No rap. Don't know why this climb has ANY stars. This is a climb you don't need to do.
From: Small Lake, UT
May 29, 2010
Sounds like someone's mangina has accumulated quite a bit of sand from all that climbing in the SW desert...
Man up, this is the Swell, not your sanitized home crag.
See here for more of the same type of comments and how they're addressed.
From: SL UT
May 29, 2010
Mark one Boissal! Quite entertaining that this was Wayne's first post on the proj! He signed up to post this!Welcome to the community Mr Hare!
|By Mike Jungers|
Mar 15, 2011
Great route. Thanks Mr. Ross for the belay bolts, and thanks for all the bolts you could have placed but didn't. This route is NOT for you if you're a 50'/ 8 bolt 5.7 leader, but will reward climbers who just put their heads down and go. Highly recommended if you like easy climbing and don't mind slinging three sandcastles on a 200' pitch. Great views from the summit and don't miss the rock art on the hike in.
May 1, 2012
RUN OUT. Pitches 5&6 were GREAT. The rest was run out (3 placements in about 200 feet) Don't Slip. Rated well but sketch as far as placements/gear goes... My belayer started cussing at me when sometime either p3 or p4 I finally found a placement (that wasn't crap) 60-70 feet above the him. Screw that. I would rather be on Granite.
May 1, 2012
Stay in Colorado then.
|By Wayne Hare|
Jan 30, 2014
Hmmmm…I should check back more than every four years. Thought this was a forum for commenting on climbs, not climbers. At any rate, still consider this a way over-rated and dangerous climb. And oh yeah, the Swell pretty much IS my "sanitized home crag".