(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake!
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BETA PHOTO: Note pointed roof that rap is on top of.
Climb crack past tree on small ledge into chimney with hidden layback crack. Up thru crack in bulge. Final section is chimney with short squeeze. Belay on ledge at tree. If you have 50M ropes-- plenty of spots to belay for a second pitch.
About 100 around the corner from ACOS, on the north face, is a long crack system. Start just left and under a huge, tongue-like block of rock, in the crack. 170 of jamming, stemming, liebacking, and chimneying on surprisingly good rock.
To descend: Scramble up and left about 30 past trees to a ledge with 2-bolt rap. (From the base, this ledge looks like a large pointed roof) 60M doubles will just reach ground. 50Ms will probably get you into the climb where you could probably set up a rap off a tree.
Include double cams to 3.0. A #4.0 is handy.
Kevin McGarvey at the crux bulge.