Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

11c Toprope Arete 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jan 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is a cool toprope climb with interesting moves that starts out of the big chimney on the first pitch of Reed's Regular Route. To set up the toprope, climb the first pitch of Reed's Regular and then traverse over to the bolted anchor out on the edge of the steep arete.

The climb begins on right-trending rail that comes out of the back of the chimney. Stem to get as high as you can on this rail and then hug the rail and the arete and work your feet on some edges to get up to a jug at the top of the rail. From here you throw a foot on the rail and rock over on it and make a long and desperate reach up left to a crimp. This is the crux. Above this is easier but still challenging face climbing to the top of the buttress.


Protection 

Pro to 2" or whatever you think you need to lead one of the first pitch starting variations of Reed's Regular.



Comments on 11c Toprope Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -