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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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11c Toprope Arete 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left 
Beyond Lunacy 
Beyond the Fringe 
Bong's Away Center 
Bongs Away, Left 
Deer Route, The 
Dr. Fun Time 
Dream Easy 
Independence Pinnacle, Center 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) 
Iota, The 
Lunatic Fringe 
Olga's Trick 
Porter's Pout 
Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
Remnant, Center, The 
Remnant-Left Side, The 
Remnant-Right Side, The 
Steppin' Out 
Stone Groove 

11c Toprope Arete 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jan 15, 2012
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


This is a cool toprope climb with interesting moves that starts out of the big chimney on the first pitch of Reed's Regular Route. To set up the toprope, climb the first pitch of Reed's Regular and then traverse over to the bolted anchor out on the edge of the steep arete.

The climb begins on right-trending rail that comes out of the back of the chimney. Stem to get as high as you can on this rail and then hug the rail and the arete and work your feet on some edges to get up to a jug at the top of the rail. From here you throw a foot on the rail and rock over on it and make a long and desperate reach up left to a crimp. This is the crux. Above this is easier but still challenging face climbing to the top of the buttress.


Pro to 2" or whatever you think you need to lead one of the first pitch starting variations of Reed's Regular.

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