Top ten hardest trad routes in the Northeast

I thought there was a 12C-ish finish to the Book ? Bill's other line up there is Le Demi another 12C-ish thing out of Recompense's last pitch

I'm sure both of these are bolted

I have spent some time working Mainiac in the last couple of years. First 30 feet is trad but probably only 11b. Remainder of the route is bolted although a bit sporty. Great route. Spectacular position.

john strand wrote: Ya and you gotta add Candidus it's kinda fixed with copper shit, but 13C ? I know some really good climbers that failed on this one. I hope when Razor crack is freed it doesn't get bolted (start is 13C or so)

Thepins were bad when we freed the first 25' or so. Tin did some more I think around 13+

it will go for sure

john strand wrote:Thepins were bad when we freed the first 25' or so. Tin did some more I think around 13+ it will go for sure

I know I was ! Backing stuff up with RP's and such. Try some of the roof cracks at Mineral Site sometime..very impressive stuff

Spider Webs in the ADKs (between Chapel Pond and Beer Walls on the north side of the road) has some really stout lines. Zabba goes at 13 I think and is miles out of my league on my best day.

I think Henry Barber put up Drop Die or Fly which goes at 11-something but probably feels harder due to the era it went up. I could see someone putting that up now and calling it much harder.

It's Only Entertainment is a pretty sexy climb while you're there. And if you are there, can someone go over to one of the spires 200 yards east and try and dig my cam out of that 5.6 crack. My ex managed to get it in there pretty good in 2008 and I have a suspicion it's become a permanent resident. I couldn't get it out.

I can't get off the ground on any of this stuff, but at 70, I guess I have an excuse. The "old" guys probably remember when 5.10 was the top limit. How things have changed!
Can I still call myself a climber?

Yes, SA..but you don't need my approval by any means.! I bet 5.9+ was pretty damn hard without "modern" gear .
Hell, i can barely walk to the boulders anymore, but that's OK.

Beware the Jimmie Dunn 5.10+++..they are all over the country,,waiting to spank you..hard

There is some undone overhanging arete route/proj at the Campground wall @ Roger's Rock... not sure if its trad or if its been done. Anyone know the one?

Here's a few to do (most undone I think)-
Grand Finale on Cathedral... not strictly a trad route, but hardly sport. The first pitch is "almost" done 13+ and pitch 3 has had it's short aid section Tr'd 13A..the whole route will be very cool

Several routes at Mineral Site at the east end of the Kanc..BIG roofs and corners with cracks. good luck here.

A couple of short , off finger roof cracks still at Cave Mountain in bartlett..makes Roofer Madness 12A seem casual

Stairs- some stuff has been done, but several roof beckon..no one will hear you scream and moan out here.

THE crack at Back Sundown...and of course Razor Crack

of the other crags Greens main Wall and left wing are just waiting for you..lot's of hard stuff to do yet..357 magnum 13B is just an early probe of what's out there

There' also a hard route at Rattlesnake Rocks near Boston..an old aid climb that Zeb Engberg Tr'd...13 or so I guess ? I'm sure it could be a lead.

The revised top ten, in some order. For the guidelines, see the OP. Routes without a link are in the MP database.

Difficulties Be Damned, Cathedral
Cecile, Cathedral
Sewer Rat, Sundown
Geezer Pleaser, Stonehouse Pond
Moonshine and Chronic, Mud Pond, Dacks
Oppositional Defiance Disorder, Silver Lake-Tsunami Wall, Dacks
Ill Fire, Moss Cliff, Dacks
Wheelin' and Dealin', Spider's Web, Dacks
Bro-Zone, Gunks
Monumantle, Gunks
Cybernetic Wall, Gunks, Gunks

This is the most up to date list of the hardest routes in the Gunks...

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