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European Vacation
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.9 from 10
votes
Routes in (1) Northeast Face
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Damage, Inc S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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European Vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Evolution Theory T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Farewell to Smith T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Higher Messiah S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kevin’s Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Master of Puppets S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Snibble Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Thomas Emde, Ryan Lawson |
| Page Views: | 3,008 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Peter George on Jun 6, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Rock quality isn't great. But really great position and summit. As of June 7th 2014 it appears the anchors for the rappel route have been pulled. (Edit: apparently the anchors are there just a little tricky to find)
Suggestion:
Rack: Mixed to 4 inches
P1 10a 4 bolts, Jam past the first four bolts of "The Struggle Within" and step right to belay bolts beneath the second-pitch of "Smith Summit-East Wall."
P2 10c 8 bolts, Move up and right to join the second pitch arete of "Eye of the Beholder."
P3 10d, Naturally protected 5.7 climbing leads to a tricky, bolt protected move. Follow a widening crack to a hanging belay.
P4 10c, Jam the moderate 4 inch crack and veer right to a sport climbing finish past a bulge, belay on a comfortable ledge.
P5 5.9 4 bolts, Easy face climbing on imperfect rock leads to another anchor.
P6 10a 5 bolts, A bolted face gives way to an unavoidable dose of bad rock. Fortunately, the finish knobs are solid and fun.
P7 10d 7 bolts, The highlight of your European Vacation ascends great rock high on the finishing tower. At the arete, clip a bolt for your second and step down around the edge to a ledge. DO NOT attempt to rappel from this anchor!
P8 Step right to a bolted water streak and stem dubious rock to a much better finish. Belay from slack line bolts over the lip or go all the way to the summit and belay from there.
P1&2, P3&4, and P5&6 Can all be linked with a 70M Rope and mindful use of runners.
All pitch descriptions were cited from Falcon's Smith Rock Climbing Guide written by Alan Watts. For a topo of the route and more information go purchase the Smith Rock Climbing Guide from your local Climbing Shop.
Suggestion:
Rack: Mixed to 4 inches
P1 10a 4 bolts, Jam past the first four bolts of "The Struggle Within" and step right to belay bolts beneath the second-pitch of "Smith Summit-East Wall."
P2 10c 8 bolts, Move up and right to join the second pitch arete of "Eye of the Beholder."
P3 10d, Naturally protected 5.7 climbing leads to a tricky, bolt protected move. Follow a widening crack to a hanging belay.
P4 10c, Jam the moderate 4 inch crack and veer right to a sport climbing finish past a bulge, belay on a comfortable ledge.
P5 5.9 4 bolts, Easy face climbing on imperfect rock leads to another anchor.
P6 10a 5 bolts, A bolted face gives way to an unavoidable dose of bad rock. Fortunately, the finish knobs are solid and fun.
P7 10d 7 bolts, The highlight of your European Vacation ascends great rock high on the finishing tower. At the arete, clip a bolt for your second and step down around the edge to a ledge. DO NOT attempt to rappel from this anchor!
P8 Step right to a bolted water streak and stem dubious rock to a much better finish. Belay from slack line bolts over the lip or go all the way to the summit and belay from there.
P1&2, P3&4, and P5&6 Can all be linked with a 70M Rope and mindful use of runners.
All pitch descriptions were cited from Falcon's Smith Rock Climbing Guide written by Alan Watts. For a topo of the route and more information go purchase the Smith Rock Climbing Guide from your local Climbing Shop.
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