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Trad shoe for long toes?

Original Post
iamsam91 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

So I've been on the hunt for a good crack/multi pitch shoe that is suitable for people with long toes. My second 2 toes are longer than my big toe. I was hoping to find a shoe that I could use for cracks and that I won't need to take off after 20 min of climbing.

Random sizing information, street size W9 or 40.5. I've tried the mythos in a 39.5 and they seem to be the best for so far except for a slightly baggy heel cup. I've tried on evolv, Tenaya Masai , and some 5.10 options up to 2 sizes bigger than my street shoe and can't seem to get anything that doesn't kink my toes. At the larger sizes I end up losing any type of heel fit so continues to size up is mildly unpractical. For projects and techy sport climbs is wear 37 testerosas in which case toe kinks are welcomed.

Can anyone shed light on this?

-Sarah

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

it sounds like you have mortons toe. I've heard that evolves tend to work better with mortons toe. You might find some useful information in this thread:

mountainproject.com/v/foot-…

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Five ten stonelands has a very blunt last, looks like it would have more room for your second toe than the anasazis.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Wife has long narrow feet with long toes - some of Butora models fit well.
Check out Butora Mantra

johnsonbrad1 · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Check out the Scarpa Techno-X too. I have long toes, and I can wear these shoes all day. Great for climbing cracks too, my go to for the creek.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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