Rope Suggestion For Ice

Nick Sweeney wrote: This is a strange thing to say... ice screws are STRONG in good ice. I would say that half ropes are optimal, but there is nothing wrong with using twin ropes on ice.

IMO, there is no reason to add any impact force to ice screws. However, you're probably right, in good ice it's probably fine. For a Beal Opera, it looks like about 7.4 kN in single mode and 8.8 kN in twin mode (double mode is likely to be the same as single). 20% higher, significant but probably not a game-changer.

It depends on the intent of the two ropes. Is it just for longer raps? Will you have 2 seconds? Does the route wander and have rope drag? Any exposed (sharp) rock? I think all of these questions determine the optimal rope setup.

I like doubles because they are burly enough to use by themselves in moderate terrain, makes for a very flexible system.

Guys more specifically my question was which rope stays 'more dry' in your opinion for ice climbing, I don't care about handling or length, all I care is the dry treatment and that is a single rope. Tell me the brand of the rope that you took on a multiday trip back packing where you STAYED OUT in the back country and the rope was still nice and dry the next day. I hear Beal Opera has their 'gold dry' treatment, sterling has dry core dry sheet, others ??? Which one has worked for you ???

Thank you !!

Regarding dry treatment, you need to find a rope that meeds the UIAA standard for dry treatment. The packaging will be marked as such. I use Beal and Edelweiss with what is effectively their "double-dry" treatment, which is applied to the core and sheath. Those treatments exceed the UIAA standard.

Look for the "NEW" UIAA standard for dry treatment.
This was changed a year or two ago. Some manufactures didn't meet the new standard but as of 2016 they are all supposed to.

I seem to recall that the Beals' met the standard from the get-go.

I have had my Beal (Iceline and Opera) both with Golden Dry in wet, wet pouring rain for days Alaska weather and they stayed dry... Golden Dry treatment is legit.

Very helpful you all !! Thank you, beal opera it is. As a detail I read also that they absorbe less than 5% water vs most dry treated ropes average 10 to 30 %

Alain Rodriguez wrote:Very helpful you all !! Thank you, beal opera it is. As a detail I read also that they absorbe less than 5% water vs most dry treated ropes average 10 to 30 %

I haven't climbed with the Opera but it's hard to go wrong with Beal.

But... I think you should go buy the new BD ones... Just to test them out and report back us here on MP. ;-)

So the rope came but noticed something weird: no factor 2 falls specifications.

Anyone knows if that is kind of normal?

I thought all single ropes took some number of factor 2 falls :0

Alain Rodriguez wrote: So the rope came but noticed something weird: no factor 2 falls specifications. Anyone knows if that is kind of normal? I thought all single ropes took some number of factor 2 falls :0

That last number is what you are looking for: 5 in a single rope test, 18 in half rope test, and >25 in twin test.

Note that it is a factor ~1.7...look up the UIAA dynamic rope qualification test for all the details.

Xam

That was very helpful thanks

Didn't realize I was misinterpreting the label

Thank you !!