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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Lower Merced Ri…
> Aj. Cookie Area
> Cookie Cliff
Twilight Zone
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 39
votes
Routes in The Cookie Cliff
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Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Banana Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coffin Nail S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cookie Cutter S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+ |
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Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Girls Just Want To Have Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orangutan Arch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Stigma, The T A3 |
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Tennessee Wall (P1: Tennessee Strings) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Twilight Zone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Void Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks, September 1965 |
| Page Views: | 15,731 total · 92/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is one of the finest offwidths in the Valley. Seldom do you find routes of such quality and provenance. Chuck Pratt's revolutionary ascent of this masterpiece remains one of the greatest ascents in Valley history. The climb protects easily with large cams and the crux tends to be the continuous building overall energy expenditure you will have to summon over the route. Good technique is imperative but does not make the route pedestrian.
Begin climbing through fingers in a corner. Climb over a strenuous bulge and immediately reach right for a good rail. Mantle and move around the corner onto a good stance with old slings nearby. I like to set up a belay here to reduce rope drag and allow the belayer to see the leader throughout the rest of the climb.
From here the route is obvious. About 30ft of easy chimney, 30ft of 7inch crack, and 30ft of 5inch crack. 1-2 of the two largest C4s or Friends will protect the majority of the route. BigBros are not necessary. Generally the route narrows as you ascend so keep a few 1-3 inch pieces for the top.
Begin climbing through fingers in a corner. Climb over a strenuous bulge and immediately reach right for a good rail. Mantle and move around the corner onto a good stance with old slings nearby. I like to set up a belay here to reduce rope drag and allow the belayer to see the leader throughout the rest of the climb.
From here the route is obvious. About 30ft of easy chimney, 30ft of 7inch crack, and 30ft of 5inch crack. 1-2 of the two largest C4s or Friends will protect the majority of the route. BigBros are not necessary. Generally the route narrows as you ascend so keep a few 1-3 inch pieces for the top.
Location
Follow the old road up and left to its end. From there follow a trail up and further left to the wall containing outer limits and crack-a-go-go. Tunnel under a large wedged boulder into the alcove on the right side of the wall. The route starts on the right (south) side of the alcove in a finger crack.
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