Alaska Ice Climbing questions

Hi,

My old climbing partner used to rave about how much fun he had climbing in Valdez. He said they would fly to Anchorage and rent a car. Then drive to Valdez and get a b&b room for a week. We discussed going many times, but it just never happened.

I have lots of time in the Canadian Rockies and PNW for Ice. However, I am Alaska bound for sure this year.

My ice partner and I are good on 4's and 5's. Easy mixed is an option as well. Scenery and mileage on ice trumps grades for this trip though.

What is the best area to go to for my first trip? Valdez? Anchorage? Any recommendations on Lodging?

When should we go? February seems to be the hot ticket in Canada due to more daylight, agreeable temps, frozen rivers, etc. Is this the same strategy for Alaska?

Looking forward to your recommendations.

Thanks,
Joe

Valdez is awesome--lots and lots of ice everywhere, with absurdly short approaches to much of it. Lots and lots of 4s and 5s. February and March are good times, but warm spells can screw up things throughout most of the winter--even though it's Alaska, things might get in poor shape (relative to Valdez--still pretty decent compared to other areas). There are hotels in Valdez, but I don't have any recommendations (had a local partner). Oh yeah, alaskaiceclimbing.com/valde…. Also, Nick Weicht (on MP) should have better info on lodging and current conditions.

Start in Ancborage and hit up:
Hunter Creek
Eagle River (Echo Bend)
Portage

Then go to Valdez

Lodging in Valdez: L&L B&B is $20/night

Valdez is the place to go. I've made the trip from CA the last few years and totally worth it. Highest density of long ice climbs with little to no approach and almost no people I've ever been to. That includes Ouray. I believe the Valdez Ice Festival is Feb 17-20. Nick has done a phenomenal job with this event the last few years and it is gaining popularity. It's a great time to be there but it can be crowded. Nothing like Ouray on a weekend though.

I would go with renting a car from Anchorage and driving to Valdez. Plenty of places to stay (they even have a best western) and decent enough restruants to keep you fed for a week. Definitely check out alaskaiceclimbing.com It will give you all the popular routes.

Good luck and have fun! It's my favorite place to climb!

It's going to be much less expensive to fly into Anchorage, rent a car, and drive to Valdez. Anchorage area has some great climbing, but for what you are looking for Valdez is the place to go!

Since you've never been to Alaska here's what I'd reccomend based off a Saturday-Sunday trip (10 days):

Catch the red eye into Anchorage early Saturday morning. Rental companies will be closed, so grab a room w/ airport shuttle and get a couple hours sleep (or crash at the airport to save money). Pick up your rental car and hit one of the local areas. Stay in anchorage 2-3 additional nights depending on conditions. Climb in Hunter Creek (if accessible), you won't be disappointed

Day 3 or 4 to Valdez and climb in Caribou Creek along the way.

Spend the remainder of the trip climbing in Valdez allowing for time to get back to Anchorage to catch your flight.

As mentioned check out AKice for most of the routes in the areas. The ice fest is fun and a great time, but if you're serious about climbing it may be better to avoid it. The fest takes place in Keystone Canyon and we've had pretty good luck starting elsewhere and ending the day hanging out with fest goers, but it's also gotten much bigger in the last year or two.

Here's a couple trip reports that might give you some ideas:

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

Let me know if you want someone to show you around the Anchorage area. I live in Wasilla and have plenty of free time.