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Double gear sling...

Original Post
Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

So, one things I've learned with my dabbling into aid is thhat gear gets really heavy really fast.

I use a metolius drop-D sling which has been pressing on my shoulder badly. I want to get a backpack style double sling such as the Yates wall sling/chest harness or Metolius big wall sling.

Which one do you guys recommend?

Thanks,
Evan

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

I have the Misty Mountain big wall sling. It holds a ton of stuff and is very comfortable.

I've made some minor modifications for it including adding some quick access loops, knife, whistle and keeper sling to attach it to anchors...

mistymountain.com/bigwallsl…

I found the Metolius sling just didn't carry enough stuff for me.

Rob Kepley · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,005

I used the metolius big wall sling on the salathe' last fall. It's an ok unit. The biggest problem is the pack is really small, I could barely get a half liter platypus water bottle inside it.

Senor Gringo · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 20

I have the B.D Zodiac and love it. Granted I am not the ultra aid enthusiast but it does work really well. I chose this one over others due to its low profile and cost. I can carry a camelback over it when needed or still keep it low bulk and light. Its also only thirty dollars. The back pocket is stellar for route maps or a thin knife. I highly recommend it!

bigwallrog · · the farside · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 20

Howdy

I have the BD zodiac harness as well as the Yates and Misty double
gear slings and would have to say that the Yates is by far my favorite
w/ the misty coming in a very very close second .

The only reason they don't tie for first in my book is because the racking system on the Yates beats the Misty by miles IMHO.

The Zod sling has been removed to trad service as it is very uncomfortable w big wall loads but serves me well with trad loads
however if your on a budget and can tag up a lot of gear so you don't have to carry it on your sling than the BD is ok.

AS for the Metolius double I have tried them on and thought it was a
BD copy with a pouch on the back just about big enough to hold an ant
turd.... why bother?

If you are serious about wallin than get a Yates or Misty or Fish
gear double gear sling ..

caribouman1052 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

Has anyone used the Mountain Tools Max rack, and what do you think of it?

Staney · · Durango, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 15

Ive used both the Metolius and BD bigwall slings and tried on a Yates one. I really like the Metolius because it fits my body well, but I have friends who say the BD is much more comfy. If you are looking for low profile and light then I would go with the BD or Metolius, but if comfort is essential and your battling some real wally then maybe the Misty or Yates.

I recommend you try them all on before you buy. I think it will mostly come down to personal preference and what fits your body best.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I use the Black Diamond Zodiac. It's lighter and less expensive than the options you mentioned. The Yates is way overkill. Weight is a very important consideration in wall climbing because you're bringing a ton of stuff and it gets heavy AF really quickly. The heavier your gear is, the harder the wall is overall in terms of physical exhaustion, and the slower you go. The slower you go, the more gear you need. The more gear you need, the heavier your kit is. The heavier your kit is, the slower you go. It's an endless cycle of death, so stay light.

Edit: Sigh, this post is seven years old....

caribouman1052 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

20kN, I just thought it would be better to ask this question within this thread rather than starting a new one. I had a specific question about a specific piece of gear that seemed to fit within the thread.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

FISH

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Have used Bdel, misty mountain, A4, and Yates chest harnesses. I almost exclusively climb aid FAs these days and find that even though the Yates is heavier, it's comfort factor makes the weight of an aid rack (I solo a lot and don't bother with tagging so tend to climb with the entire rack on me) feel lighter.

By far, the Yates chest harness is the best for racking, sorting, comfort, and longevity when compared to all the other options I mentioned.

Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
caribouman1052 wrote:Has anyone used the Mountain Tools Max rack, and what do you think of it?
I used the yates for several walls and liked the double loops at first, but I soon got frustrated with all the gear reading up in my lap, if anyone has used one i think they will know what I mean...
Last year after talking Larry at mountain tools (super nice guy) I decided to give the Mnt Tools chest harness a try.. Im a OCD gear organizer freak, and I absolutely love the racking loops, which are just like the ones on your harness.
The loops allow you to keep all your stuff as organized as you want and keep it all from sliding forward and ending up in your lap. I also really like the padding on the shoulders and the Mnt Tools chest rack has another great feature I fell in love with, the shoulder straps are crossed in the back, unlike the Yates which aren't.
The great thing about the straps being crossed is that when your reaching up high with either arm to place your next piece or clip up your aiders to the piece you just placed, the straps don't slip off the opposite lower shoulder...

I really like the Mnt Tools gear rack.
Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 930

FISH. I know that outdoor products called Yates the best. BUT, the Fish easily and quickly adjusts from my petite *cough* size to my partners in seconds. Partner is 6'7". he says). Yates you'd need closer to the specific size. Fish is better.

Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
Billcoe wrote:FISH. I know that outdoor products called Yates the best. BUT, the Fish easily and quickly adjusts from my petite *cough* size to my partners in seconds. Partner is 6'7". he says). Yates you'd need closer to the specific size. Fish is better.
You share a chest harness? Each climber doesn't have their own?
Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
Skot Richards wrote: You share a chest harness? Each climber doesn't have their own?
Cleaning a pitch without a chest harness would be horrible!
Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
kevin deweese wrote: Cleaning a pitch without a chest harness would be horrible!
I could not agree more!!!!

Does not sound like any kind of fun I'm interested in having
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I use the Yates but I like the look of the Mtn Tools rack Skot mentions.

caribouman1052 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

Mark,
If you'd like to try a Mountain Tools sling, I'll send one to you. I got one as part of a lot of gear a few years ago, but it's too small for me.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I'll take it! Thanks!

Mark Hudon
C/O General Delivery
Yosemite Village
Yosemite National Park, CA, 95389

I'll use it on Aurora with Skot at the end of the month.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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