Could Ondra free the Dawn Wall?

who is that ^^

I'm not... and stop calling me Shirley

now hold on hold on! what if his name was hurricane didka? could he free the dawn wall then?

Alex Whitman wrote: Wait, wait, wait. Can MP make a fantasy league? I will trade you Daniel Woods and Sharma for Layton Kor or Royal Robbins. Heck, I will throw in five or six Boulderites in puffies to sweeten the deal. I know I might not score that many points this week but I am banking on the ethics multiplier to pull ahead at the end of the season.

Wait... Daniel is not a Boulderite?

I actually like these discussions (trolling and shit-talking included). It is probably fair to say that TC's routes have all stood up as being as hard or harder than other climbs of the grade and style, so when Tommy says this route is super hard...you'd better believe it. Even more interesting is the way Tommy has said a couple times how even if he can't do the route...blah blah blah. The Dawn Wall project is not going to disappear and someday, someone will do it. If it isn't Tommy then who knows who it might be...probably somebody most of us have never even heard of yet.

Also, this is a stupid conversation and all of you people are dumb because your parents never loved you.

Are you guys kidding me? Why is it that so many people think of trad climbing as this special thing that sport climbers would suck at? It's climbing, plain and simple. Placing gear in bomber granite is not that hard, especially when redpointing. You know the gear, in order. You aren't searching for good placements.

Trad Ninja wrote:We were just discussing that we would like to see Sharma and Cadwell team up as well. I feel like Sharma, Ondra, etc are so one dimensional. It would be cool to see these guys branch out into different aspects of climbing. Much respect for Dave Macleod, the true "all arounder".

One dimensional? Really? Do you see any other climbers putting up cutting edge DWS first ascents? Do you have any idea of what it takes to do a route like that? Have any of you ever had a hard DWS project? It is A LOT harder than simply showing up to the crag w/ a partner and working a single pitch route (gear or bolts). A lot of logistics go into getting to the route with someone who can actually jump in and save you if you get fucked up. Not to mention that you have to be able to repeatedly fall from 30 and 40 feet into the ocean and not drown. Then you have to get a dry chalk bag, a dry set of shoes, let your skin dry, try not to get hypothermia, etc.

And anyone who has followed Adam Ondra and thinks that he is one dimensional is missing something. He has has done big, hard on-sights. How many times have any of you on-sighted 8 or 9 pitches of climbing at your limit, on a big wall, in a foreign country?

Dylan Colon wrote:I also think that Ondra is probably more well-rounded than Sharma these days, because he has done multi-pitch sport and bouldering recently, while Sharma has focused almost exclusively on single-pitch sport.

Yea. Because Chris Sharma doesn't boulder. What?

Trad Ninja wrote:...pro athletes are paid to inspire and excite us commoners for their respective sport and frankly Mr Sharma no longer inspires me by doing basically the same thing over and over. I know these guys climb hard but i would like to see them get outside of the box. Ondra and Sharma crush three big walls in a day, now that would be cool!

Yea, we'd all like to see them team up but I can't imagine why you don't think that putting up routes like Es Pontas and Jumbo Love isn't thinking outside of the box? And Ondra makes yearly trips to the UK to sport climb. How is that not thinking outside of the box? How many cutting edge climbers even know that there is good climbing here?

They are finding the hardest routes in the world and sending them. It is on par with what Caldwell is doing, it is just a different style. A big wall is a big wall and will always take more over all effort, but doing a first ascent of a route that will end up being the hardest in the world is pretty creative if you ask me.

Josh Kornish wrote: I am a huge Honnold fan but I truly don't believe he could go up the dawn wall. I'm not even sure if he has climbed 5.14 yet? Regardless he has a mind of steel.

Really?

jmac wrote:In King Lines Sharma climbs Moonlight Butress, not 5.14 but it proves he can climb trad. Plus with him routinely taking 50 foot whippers I would think he would make a good trad climber. Plugging gear is not that hard (not nearly as hard as what I can only imagine a 5.14 move to be). I would think any pro climber could make the transition if they chose too. Not saying they could do the Dawn Wall, I have no idea.

I really don't see why taking 50 foot falls in a 200 foot tall cave has anything to do with being a good climber. It's a freakin' rope swing. My mom would do that.

But I do agree that climbing gear protected pitches is not so different than bolted ones. There is no reason to think that any of the best sport climbers couldn't do hard gear routes if they wanted to. It does take more work, but it is not necessarily harder.

Like a few people have said, any top climber could move into a different style of climbing and succeed. People have done it.

And the funniest part of this whole thread is that just the top climbers in Spain alone could do every route we have talked about so far if they wanted. Take the top climbers from all over Europe and they make Americans look like preschoolers.

Yahoo picked up the TC Dawn Wall story:

grindtv.com/outdoor/blog/31…

But they refer to Tommy's wife as "Becca". Typo? Or is Beth gone?

Becca is his wife now.

retz wrote:I'm not... and stop calling me Shirley

cool

DEF wrote:I'm not sure its safe to let Ondra into the Yosemite area, his high frequency hissy fits could trigger rock fall and avalanches throughout the Yosemite/Sierra region.

Very much agree!!!!!! hahahahaha

I know this thread is just a troll but here's Huber discussing Ondra. Thoughtful and interesting. And not boring (assuming you like climbing history).

Huber on Ondra

Figured I'd revive this seeing how Ondra is headed to Yosemite to climb the Nose, Salethe and Dawn Wall.

Don Ferris wrote: to climb the Nose, Salethe and Dawn Wall.

Onsight. Before lunch.