Confessions of a zinc-plated bolter
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Do you know how to calibrate yours? I use them all the time at my job. I have probably installed tend of thousands of anchors. Plated, anodized, stainless and even hot dipped galvanized. I put vibrating things in place that could harm hundreds of people should my anchors fail. |
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Follow the innovation. The handful of climbing companies producing hardware are investing in SS and Ti. |
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Mike Lane wrote:Do you know how to calibrate yours? I use them all the time at my job. I have probably installed tend of thousands of anchors. Plated, anodized, stainless and even hot dipped galvanized. I put vibrating things in place that could harm hundreds of people should my anchors fail.I find it pretty telling that you choose only to respond to the joke and not the legitimate points. |
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I'm rolling with a mobile phone and should be more focused on work so I am not being very thorough |
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Mike Lane wrote:I'm rolling with a mobile phone and should be more focused on work so I am not being very thoroughHaha fair enough... esp if your placing vibrator anchors where they can fall and harm people. |
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"Time is money." - Benjamin Franklin |
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Well for those who want to buy stainless bolts for replacing bolts that were placed back when no one even thought about stainless steel (we're all just glad they finally thought 1/4" was kind of sketchy!) - please donate today (and get anyone you know who needs a tax deduction to donate!). We're almost to 12,000, and Planet Granite will match up to 20,000, so anything donated now gets doubled! |
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I don't even clip that that shit. If I show up at a crag and it's done with plated steel, I just piss on the first foothold and leave. |
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John, thanks for considering stainless! |
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bus driver wrote:I don't even clip that that shit. If I show up at a crag and it's done with plated steel, I just piss on the first foothold and leave. . . . But really, donate to the asca.Haha thanks for the morning chuckle. |
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I appreciate all the people that have contacted me in regards to getting cheaper stainless steel bolts through the Boulder Climbing Community. I am happy to help people out but please keep in mind you have to be local meaning you can physically come pick them up from me directly - we will not ship/mail bolts anywhere. Thanks and sorry for any confusion. |
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Are you suggesting that you don't exclusively use glue in ti bolts? For shame... |
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Having managed a group buy for folks that have assisted with the SLCA's Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative, I know where Jason is coming from. It's a PITA to manage such procurements. You'd better fugging earn it. |
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Times have changed. 20+ years ago here in the Wasatch, we were just glad people were putting up routes at all. And like someone said, just the fact that 3/8" bolts were going in was seen as progress. Years ago at Ceuse, it seemed the ethic was to get a route up by whatever means, then time and consensus would determine if bolts should be moved, then they'd get replaced with glue ins. The 5 piece Rawl non-stainless became the standard, nobody complained, they were just happy to climb new routes. I clipped old 1/4" button heads on trad routes back in those days and that was just part of the game. On sport routes, I've placed my share of 3/8" 5 piece non-stainless Rawls. Our ethic then was long or 1/2" for anchors, "must not fail" bolts, or crux bolts. Shorter or slimmer was okay for "non-critical" bolts. |
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Dang. I'm just getting into bolting and doing so VERY carefully because I don't want any blood on my hands. Maybe it's because I'm a structural engineer and am used to making design decisions every day that can kill people and dealing with the morality issues of 'informed consent' from uninformed/unwilling users, but man, seeing the attitude of some bolters here has me even more eager to learn how to bolt better to avoid being subjected to your morally careless attitude! Regulations and availability of cheap parts aside... Also, I have had more than a few instances where I wished that I had the gear and knowhow to upgrade existing hardware because I value my life more than the cost of a mid-range burger & beer dinner, but those were on relics and bolts damaged by rockfall partway down multi-rappel descents. I know now to be a lot more suspicious on bolts put up by some people now!... |