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> Belleview Slab
Glee Club Crack
5.3 YDS 3+ French 10 Ewbanks III UIAA 9 ZA VD 3a British
Avg: 1.5 from 12
votes
Routes in Belleview Slab
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Also Ran T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Belle Bottom Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Belleview T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Chess Club Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Discovered Check T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fist, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Giucco Piano T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Glee Club Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Lawyers, Guns, and Money S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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O'Tom's Tick Twister T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | December 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,097 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Jul 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Climb crack to ledge, make an awkward stem, or friction, move to gain the ledge on the left. Walk left to below the crack, then climb up to it. Follow the crack, utilizing good holds on the left wall for purchase and pro, until fantasy knobs on either side of the crack allow easier, albeit runout, climbing past the oak tree (may want to sling it). Reenter the crack and follow it as it sweeps rightward to the top of the cliff.
V1 5.6: Start directly below the crack and friction up to the ledge. Quite a bit harder.
V1 5.6: Start directly below the crack and friction up to the ledge. Quite a bit harder.
Location
At a short fist crack leading to a ledge at head-height, with another ledge 5' above and left of that one. You are, of course, heading left to the obvious crack with a small oak tree growing out of it (not the same one as Chess Club Crack, however).
Protection
Though not necessary, a #5 cam may help calm the nerves at one spot. Otherwise, a standard run of cams should do.
Be careful to protect your follower at the start, either by not placing gear until the oak tree (for those leaders confident with that sort of thing) or by managing the belay rigorously when the follower ascends it.
Be careful to protect your follower at the start, either by not placing gear until the oak tree (for those leaders confident with that sort of thing) or by managing the belay rigorously when the follower ascends it.
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