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Jack Servedio
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Oct 11, 2016
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 35
After moving to NC from Madison, WI - I want to make sure I have adequate gear for around here and at least a "Standard NC Rack." I've found a few threads on here about what comprises a standard NC rack, but it was all over the map. Here's what I've got: 1x Set of Wallnuts 1x Set of Peenuts and Offsets 1x MC Purple to Orange 1x C4 .5-3 with doubles of .75, 1 and 2 1x Pink and Red Tricams Now, I hate carrying that much gear - at Devils Lake I'd normally only carry half a set of wires and 6 cams and be able to sew most of the easy and moderate climbs up pretty well. What should I add to this and what don't I need? Also, how many of you opt for a pull cord for rapping instead of lugging up a second rope?
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Barrett Pauer
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Oct 11, 2016
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Brevard, NC
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 775
Set of metolius TCUs from grey to red, maybe a couple extra alpine draws, maybe a #4 BD for some routes
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Brie Abram
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Oct 11, 2016
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Celo, NC
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 493
You're fine on nuts. I would carry half those wires with an emphasis on the mid-size. You will use nuts more or less depending on whatever crag you frequent. The rock is pretty diverse here. You're probably going to want to get doubles in the blue #1 MC, yellow #2 MC, orange #3 MC, and the .5 C4. The orange mastercam/.4 C4 and the .5 C4 are by far my most used pieces. I personally typically carry 3 of each and only carry a single #2 C4. You will be placing cams from blue or yellow mastercam to .5 C4 all the time. Eventually you might want to pick up a single grey 00 Master Cam. Maybe eventually a #4, though you can stay busy for years without it. I carry 10 60cm runners. I use a 6mm cord as a second rope for rappels when necessary.
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Brian Payst
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Oct 11, 2016
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Carrboro,NC
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 10
That's pretty good and should see you through a lot of NC routes. Maybe fill in some doubles on the C4s, .5-2 or just borrow stuff from your partner as needed. Worth noting that most NC routes are a lot longer than Devil'ss Lake routes so you will be carrying more.
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Jack Servedio
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Oct 11, 2016
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 35
Barrett Pauer wrote:Set of metolius TCUs from grey to red, maybe a couple extra alpine draws, maybe a #4 BD for some routes I've got a crapload of alpines and a bunch of double lengths, but why specifically TCUs when I've got tiny 4CUs in the exact same range? Do you just like doubling up on small cams and having a 3CU option or do TCUs actually just fit much better than the other options like C3s or micro 4CUs? Are offsets a worthwhile alternative to TCUs? I just borrow friends big gear if I know I'm going to need it, though I'm sure I'll but some bigger C4s eventually.
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Jack Servedio
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Oct 11, 2016
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 35
Brian Abram wrote:You're fine on nuts. I would carry half those wires with an emphasis on the mid-size. You will use nuts more or less depending on whatever crag you frequent. The rock is pretty diverse here. You're probably going to want to get doubles in the blue #1 MC, yellow #2 MC, orange #3 MC, and the .5 C4. The orange mastercam/.4 C4 and the .5 C4 are by far my most used pieces. I personally typically carry 3 of each and only carry a single #2 C4. You will be placing cams from blue or yellow mastercam to .5 C4 all the time. Eventually you might want to pick up a single grey 00 Master Cam. Maybe eventually a #4, though you can stay busy for years without it. I carry 10 60cm runners. I use a 6mm cord as a second rope for rappels when necessary. Thanks! No matter where I climb I think I place my Yellow and Orange Mastercams more than anything else. Plus those tiny cams are so light so I don't mind the doubles. Just gotta find some of the older style ones in good shape. I also carry 10 single length runners and 1 or 2 double length runners (or 2 more if bolted anchors), so I'm all set there. Glad to hear about the pull cord - I use a 6mm too and was thinking the clean granite domes would be perfect for that without getting anything stuck.
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Sam Stephens
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Oct 11, 2016
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PORTLAND, OR
· Joined Jan 2010
· Points: 1,090
Most of what has been said is good. My normal go to is single 00, 0 Master cam, double aliens green to red (blue to orange Master cam), red tcu, BD .75, double #1 and #2, single #3. Single set of offsets and BD regular nuts from #3-#10? Gets almost everything done. I'll bring a #4 or extra #3 if I know I need it. Tricams can be handy on belays or for keeping a rack light on easy routes.
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