Smith Rock Crags

Just looking for recommendations for crags at smith. Have a trip planned soon and want to spend a day sport climbing 10s and 11s. Will probably spend one day on the monkey. Any suggestions on areas with fun 5 10 5 11 sport climbing? Also any multi pitch trad routes you recommend? Less crowds are always a plus. Thanks for the help!

Buy the book, read it, voila.

+1 for buy the book, it's very well written and offers tons of interesting history. All the various crags can be confusing and this helps with orientation to make the most of your time.

For a first time visit, the "main area" crags offer heaps of great routes(cross the bridge and go left). Any of these walls are no more than 10-15 minutes walk from each other, some only a few seconds so you can bounce around:

(in order R to L as you approach)
Shipwreck
Aggro Gully - steep gnar
Cocaine Gully - great routes, no crowds besides maybe Vomit
Morning Glory - most popular wall at Smith for good reason, all day sun
Fourth Horseman - less traffic, good trad lines.
Dihedrals - classic. mostly harder but worth walking by just to see some of the country's most significant sport routes
Christian Brothers - tons of stuff for everybody from easy to hard
Smith Rock Group Crags(Phoenix, Llama) - shade almost all day

Don't be set on a particular route, waiting in line isn't worth it. Bring the rack along and you will always have good options; trad lines are scattered throughout and seldom busy.

mesa verde is also a great area for climbing 10s and 11s. It kind of sucks to trek all the way out there and find out that its crowded though. Zion is an amazing trad multi pitch that goes at 10b. There are a bunch of easier trad multi pitches on red wall ranging from 5.7 to 5.9.

Lower gorge, best 5.10 climbing at Smith for sure. Cocaine gully and Shipwreck wall have some decent 10s and 11s

If you like to place gear, the lower gorge is a must. Most lines are good if not great. The Catwalk area is loaded with good 10's.

It's hard to beat crowds on a weekend in the main area, so just be willing to move around and you should find something open. Most areas have at least a couple of good lines.

As for the Monkey, I say give Monkey Space a go via the West Face Variation. A couple nice pitches of 5.8 trad to two pitches of 5.11 bolts (you'll want a couple finger pieces for the finish of the traverse.