Transition gym to outdoors

So I've been climbing for a little while now and really want to make the transition from the gym to outdoor climbing. Any advice on what is the best method for accomplishing this? My local climbing gym has some outdoor classes which are pretty expensive, or what would be the best way to get a mentor. My main goal is to climb outdoors regularly and use the gym supplementally.

At least fill in your page enough that folks know where you are.

Be straight up about your abilities, post up in the appropriate state forum, and humbly beg for someone to take you out. Plenty of people out there enjoy helping, if you've got a good attitude.

Practice everything you can in the gym, and read up a bunch.

Pop for the class. It will be fun, and if they actually go out somewhere you can see if it is really what you want to do. Not everyone enjoys outside (fear of heights, for instance). If you have a university nearby, see if they have an outdoor program that includes climbing, with classes or trips you can do.

And, have fun!

Find friends at the gym that climb outside and go with them.

I am going to assume that you have made at least a few climbing friend sat the gym. If you haven't you should try. Finding experienced friends to climb with is the best way to get outside. Everyone was brought outside by someone in the past, in general, we are pretty happy to return the favor and bring newbies out with us.

Gary,

The gym in the pic looks pretty nice. Just go and ask groups of three if you can make two complete pairs for the evening, or ask pairs that aren't couples if you can rotate with them. Look for people climbing your grade and start a conversation. Oh, and read the sticky in this forum about getting a second date. It is all covered there.

Own your rope, HELMET, buy two sets of draws. Practice knots. Offer to drive and or buy beer. Whoop up dinner at the crag. Some of us are friendly, others will be swayed by the beer (after the climb) and grub.

Respect your crags, leave no trace, pick up trash so it is better than when u arrived. Others worked really hard to make those places happen.

Cheers.

Thanks for the advice!

Faulted Geologist wrote:Own your rope, HELMET, buy two sets of draws. Practice knots. Offer to drive and or buy beer. Whoop up dinner at the crag. Some of us are friendly, others will be swayed by the beer (after the climb) and grub.

If you have to do all this as a beginner outdoor climber then just find other people. Most of us don't need dinner or a beer from you or for you to bring your own gear. Don't drop $400+ until you know you like outside climbing.

Faulted Geologist wrote:buy two sets of draws.

Why? Don't even know if the OP leads. Having a rope is a good contribution, but you don't need to supply draws, if someone else is leading.

All you need to know is covered in this video ;)

How To be a Rock Climber

I know it's not really useful, but it is funny.

As for useful advice... The most important thing for me when I was learning to climb was that I had a climbing partner that I trusted completely. Experience is important, and I don't want to downplay it, but it isn't everything. There are plenty of climbers who I consider careless/reckless, and yet have loads of experience.

The second thing is to do your homework. Don't rely on your partner to teach you everything. Read books (not just internet forums). Ask questions. Never stop learning/refining technique.

My partner was actually only slightly more experienced than I was when I transitioned from gym to outdoors. But we were both very studious and read all the material we could get our hands on before venturing outside. We made the transition slowly and carefully. The first time we went outside we learned to set up a top rope anchor on a route where the top out was accessible. Before we began lead climbing, we practiced belay technique, clipping, cleaning the anchor, and simulated falls on the ground. We also researched belay failures, and understood all of the failure modes of the belay device we used.

Before I left the ground on my first lead climb, I was confident, because I knew that my partner would do everything I expected of him and nothing unexpected, and that his belay technique was safe.

When I moved to Colorado I had to find a new partner. I found a very experienced partner (who also turned out to be very safe), But I actually had less confidence in him at that time (despite his experience) than I did my first climbing partner (with far less experience). The reason being that although we quizzed each other before I got on the sharp end, I hadn't built the same level of trust.

Good video

Did my first outdoor climb yesterday. Wow. Met some really great people and had a blast. Took my 8 year old son as it was a kid-friendly trip. He did really well.

Faulted Geologist wrote:Gary, The gym in the pic looks pretty nice. Just go and ask groups of three if you can make two complete pairs for the evening, or ask pairs that aren't couples if you can rotate with them. Look for people climbing your grade and start a conversation. Oh, and read the sticky in this forum about getting a second date. It is all covered there. Own your rope, HELMET, buy two sets of draws. Practice knots. Offer to drive and or buy beer. Whoop up dinner at the crag. Some of us are friendly, others will be swayed by the beer (after the climb) and grub. Respect your crags, leave no trace, pick up trash so it is better than when u arrived. Others worked really hard to make those places happen. Cheers.

This is bad advice. I take new people out climbing all the time and never expect them to have stuff. I have everything they need, even people I climb with who aren't beginners don't bring their stuff alot of times because we just don't need it (given we don't always use my gear but you get the idea you don't need 2 ropes to do a single pitch climbing area).

You need shoes and a harness and that is about it. Chalk bag isn't bad to have either but I would assume if you climb in a gym you have all of this.

Whoever you go out with can than show you what you need past that point so you can do it on your own. Once you know you like climbing outdoors probably want to get a rope, quick draws, trad gear, etc but that is all down the road.

If the person you are going out with to learn from expects you to have all this stuff they probably are not the person you want to be learning from.

I was in a similar situation last year. I was wanting to transition to outdoor climbing but didn't know how to start. And, the classes and gear was an expensive start up cost.

My advice: If you had to take one class, learn how to belay. Finding a climbing partners is much easier if you can belay.

I cannot stress how important it is in finding a knowledgeable mentor. BE CAREFUL! All too often, I see people doing sketchy things at the crag. Make sure the person is actually knowledgeable. There is a lot you can learn on these forums to become familiar with belaying (lead/TR), lead climbing, and building anchors. Being familiar can help you assess their competency.

Once you find a potential mentor, climb with him/her at the gym to get to know each other.

Jake nailed it. Do what he advises Don't going buying gear.